haha....there you go

 

HAHAHAHAHA I am also interested in this.. Will it blow lines very easy though? Especially with aftermarket VB?

 

I know this, I have my trans temp sensor in the rubber vibration damper part of the cooler output line, I blew a nice hole in the stock line after the upgrade.

Replaced it with 150 psi line and new clamps. I was kinda doubtful of the clamps but they snugged down and everything was clean and tight. Until 300 miles into the memorial day trip, 3 of the 4 clamps were loosened and the pressure was blowing oil all over the underside of the truck.

Lots of fun laying under a hot, oil dripping truck replacing the clamps in a parking lot.

 

hmmm maybe i shouldn't do it?

 

I think the check valve is causing the excess back pressure. Remove it ASAP!

 

Aren't you sayin that once its removed though that it can blow the lines!!

 

No, mine is still in and that is what I believe is causing the excess pressure. Taking it out will increase the flow thru the cooler lines, help the trans lube, and reduce the back pressure. Its a standard thing to remove the check ball when you fix the no circulate in park problem and boost pressures.

 

Sill Waiting For Picture Of The Little Ball and it's location...... Sorry, I'm a litte def....

 

How do you remove the check ball?
Thanks

Mike

 

Here's my trans cooler. I have a Airdog now after the Holley died.

In the first pic in the thread below the line on the left has check valve in it. I just took the fitting out (actually it gaulled when i took it out so i had to replace it anyways.) cut the line and replaced it with a 1/2"npt X 1/2" tube fitting.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=116888

 

Trans temp is monitored by PCM and will turn on warning light when overheated and affect shift schedule eventually.
250 degrees is relativelly safe operating temp for ATF+4 but does eventually degrade fluid life. It turns from red towards brown and needs changing.
Adding extra coolers that increase flow pressure(not measurable) or restrict flow are of no value. The system as designed by Dodge is quite good.
REheating ATF in cold weather is needed, hence cooler on side of engine.
Temp should be measured in pan even though Dodge did elsewhere at one time.

 

Thats where it is measured now and always has been, still the wrong place.

You will never see the temp spikes caused by fluid coupling and will cook your fluid with no indication.

Cooler output line is the correct place for monitoring fluid temp. There you will see max temps in low speed unlocked TC conditions and see roughly what the pan temps are in lockup.

Best of both worlds and enough info to decide if there is a problem.

 

Here's my trans cooler I installed yesterday. Still have to tidy up the wiring.



I drilled out the drainback valve today. Temps dropped between the two mods enough to put them into normal range.

Here is the drainback/check ball info....

 

Here's what comes out of the drainback valve.. with a pic of the LITTLE BALL

 

OK... So I just picked up a new ToyHauler 12,660# (surely over 13,000# now because my wife stocked it up yesterday) and 13' 6" high. My tranny temp (off the BD-X tapping the ECM) ran high from day one with the truck. Now with the bigger load I just tacked on another 20-25 degrees while towing (in third gear TC locked) which makes we wonder if the TC is slipping? I was averaging 215 and hit 235 a few times just climbing a hill in 3rd TC locked (I think).

Anyway... I'm going to tow 700 miles this weekend and wonder what I should do. Keep backing off speed to keep tranny temps under 235? or just hammer it and let them go up to .... how high is too high? Just for grins I ordered another temp gauge with the clamp on sender. I'll clamp that onto the hot line and lay the gauge on the floor for now. I expect that gauge to read 5-10 lower and change a lot slower - we will see.

BTW - I've seen 265 while backing a heavy load up a hill. The idiot light never lit. Makes me wonder when it would come on.

I do drain my pan and add back the fluid every 20,000 miles or so which should help a bit if I've been cooking it. Glad to hear the ATF+4 can do 250 though... 'cause I have.