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Better Transmission Cooler and Fan

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Old May 27, 2008 | 02:52 PM
  #16  
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My tranny may not be the norm, but in stop and go traffic tranny's with a TC with less slip than the stocker will run hotter, as mine does, but when in normal driving mine runs cooler than the stocker did. I attribute that to some of the changes Goerend makes in the oil circuits. As far as cooling the only way to keep the tranny cooler is to do as some others said, add a second cooler with its own electric fan, and put the tranny in neutral when stopped.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 04:16 PM
  #17  
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I have my sensor in the line replacement you can get from diesel manor.. They said that it will monitor the hottest spot of transmission fluid with it being in that line. Is that correct? In stop and go traffic around town it usually stays about 190. Once I get moving and in overdrive it will go to about 170.. Before I installed my new transmission I took a airhose and blew all the old fluid and everything out of the lines.. So theres was def no restrictions in the cooling system because it all came out just fine. Should I take the heat exchanger off and tryin blowing it out better?? I also have a really tight TCS converter, will that make it run warmer?
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Old May 27, 2008 | 04:17 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by scottsjeeprolet
Here's my B&M super cooler mounted under the bed. I made the mount myself, just copied it off a guy's i saw on Ebay.

The Holley is my pusher FP.
My tranny runs pretty hot, it's the tight converter i have, once locked the temps drop pretty fast.
Im interested in doing something like this.. How did you keep your factory lines going to your factory cooler and then split them off to this additonal cooler?
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Old May 27, 2008 | 07:52 PM
  #19  
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i got some special fittings from my local Flowline. I cut into the return line at the trans. The trans line tubing is 1/2" the fittings i have are 1/2" compression 90* x 8 Jic. I then ran 1/2" line to the cooler. I also put in a manual switch for the fan so i can turn it on anytime. The cooler fan has a temp switch but it has never come on by itself.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 08:24 PM
  #20  
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From: Ocean Springs, MS
Originally Posted by scottsjeeprolet
i got some special fittings from my local Flowline. I cut into the return line at the trans. The trans line tubing is 1/2" the fittings i have are 1/2" compression 90* x 8 Jic. I then ran 1/2" line to the cooler. I also put in a manual switch for the fan so i can turn it on anytime. The cooler fan has a temp switch but it has never come on by itself.
Anyway you could get some pics of your lines you made and spliced into?
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Old May 27, 2008 | 08:43 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by blwnsmke
I have my sensor in the line replacement you can get from diesel manor.. They said that it will monitor the hottest spot of transmission fluid with it being in that line. Is that correct? In stop and go traffic around town it usually stays about 190. Once I get moving and in overdrive it will go to about 170.. Before I installed my new transmission I took a airhose and blew all the old fluid and everything out of the lines.. So theres was def no restrictions in the cooling system because it all came out just fine. Should I take the heat exchanger off and tryin blowing it out better?? I also have a really tight TCS converter, will that make it run warmer?
Yes, a really tight TC will make the temps run hotter. Your numbers are not out of line for a tight converter. If you are using ATF+4 fluid, don't sweat the temp until you consistently see over 280 degrees. The ATF+4 is rated to 320 degrees for a short time so you are well within its tolerances.

If you haven't done so, removing the ball from the check valve in the return cooler line will improve your flow and possibly the cooling.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 08:53 PM
  #22  
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The tight converter bumps the temp up some in town driving. On road in lockup is least heat mode. Pulling hill in non lock is hotest operating mode. It is my understanding that cold temps is not really desirable as adds friction.
My suggestion is add larger metal lines for less restriction and add a Pre cooler in front of engine mounted cooler. It needs some slight air flow capability, but not a electirc fan if mounted say behind wheel opening or under bed. 250 degree tranny fluid temp is not life threating with ATF+4 but will slightlly reduce it's usefull life. 300 is critical and dramaticatlly shortens life of fluid.
JMT's IMHO
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Old May 27, 2008 | 10:08 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by blwnsmke
I have my sensor in the line replacement you can get from diesel manor.. They said that it will monitor the hottest spot of transmission fluid with it being in that line. Is that correct? In stop and go traffic around town it usually stays about 190. Once I get moving and in overdrive it will go to about 170.. Before I installed my new transmission I took a airhose and blew all the old fluid and everything out of the lines.. So theres was def no restrictions in the cooling system because it all came out just fine. Should I take the heat exchanger off and tryin blowing it out better?? I also have a really tight TCS converter, will that make it run warmer?
My trans went during the past Christmas holidays. We blew the trans lines out with air, then used trans cooler flush and air. Still wasn't happy, so we ran about 1/2 gallon of brake parts cleaner through and then the metal shavings started to really flow out. We did this several times till it ran clean. This was through the entire trans cooling system. JMHO.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 10:19 PM
  #24  
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Well I also live in South Mississippi where its extremely hot and humidity is unreal.. Its not even officially summer yet and today it was close to 90 degree outside and I would bet the heat index was high 90's!! So I am sure that does help any!! I was riding around earlier tonight and it was 75 degrees out and it never went about 165. So I guess is the hot air during middle of the day and stop and go traffic and me having a tight tc is making my fluid go up to about 210 in stop and go traffic. But once moving at cruising speed again it will go down to about 170. So I guess Im ok. I think I may still add some type of fan or something onto the factory cooler for extra insurance..
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Old May 27, 2008 | 10:57 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no

If you haven't done so, removing the ball from the check valve in the return cooler line will improve your flow and possibly the cooling.
I need to do this...

Isn't it at the junction right in front of the coil spring?
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Old May 27, 2008 | 11:01 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by THURENfab.
I need to do this...

Isn't it at the junction right in front of the coil spring?
Yep, about a 3" piece of metal tubing in the line. Take it out and drill the ball out. I have blown cooler lines twice now and I think that little bugger is the problem.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 11:07 AM
  #27  
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Yea I will see 140-150 crusing at 70, but in stop and go traffic in houston it can creep up to 200. Not much you can do when its fluid cuppling and not locked, just have to be easy on the gas. Iv been thinking of adding a pusher fan in front of every thing, it should eavin help the ac cool in traffic. So what's the story on this check valve, got any pics where its located?
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Old May 28, 2008 | 05:57 PM
  #28  
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I also thought about just adding one big pusher fan in front of it all to help all of it stay a little cooler!! Yea any pics of this lil ball? Will it blow lines? I don't wanna do that
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Old May 28, 2008 | 08:51 PM
  #29  
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Need Picture of the little ball and the location of said ball......Thanx
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Old May 28, 2008 | 09:33 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Tiara3100
Need Picture of the little ball and the location of said ball......Thanx
WILL SNAP SOME PICS WHEN I DRILL OUT BALL IN QUESTION
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