Im getting my valves adjusted, what exaclty will change when I get them done? What will fell different?

 

Well, if they are grossly out of adjustment you should see a better running engine, and smoother.

MikeyB

 

If all of the valves are the same clearance and consistant between the cylinders, each cylinder will act closer to the same as the others. As Mikey put it, it should run smoother and maybe quieter.

 

If all of the valves are the same clearance and consistant between the cylinders, each cylinder will act closer to the same as the others. As Mikey put it, it should run smoother and maybe quieter.

 

ir it true that I should see a slight performance increase?

 

Well, that answer would depend on how far out of adjustment they were to begin with. If they weren't very far out then you won't really notice any difference.

 

i did my studs last week. and measured all the valves before i dissassembled. several e valves were at .027, and a few i's were at .015
my engine clattered slightly.
after studding, i reset to .010 and .020. much quieter, smoother, and throttle response seems alittle better. its worth doing for the 45 minute job.

 

smoother, meaning no engine viberation or shake?

 

What should they all be adjusted to? Also, is this something that should be done every 70k miles?

 

Smoother, meaning less engine vibration or shake, assuming they were out of adjustment.

 

intakes .010"
exhaust .020"

 

first thing you should do when you bring a new CTD home,adjust valves(almost always a wwwide varience,add freon to a/c almost always 1/4-1/2lb low,i think they must save 10-20k dollars a year at the factory skimping on the freon.

 

tell me more about this freon situation. My truck never seems to get truly cold air coming out of the vents like my old Silverado did. I never thought to check the freon because its a brand new truck.

 

Here's what the shop manual says exactly:

STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVE LASH
ADJUSTMENT AND VERIFICATION
NOTE: To obtain accurate readings, valve lash measurements
AND adjustments should only be performed
when the engine coolant temperature is less
than 60° C (140° F).
The 24–valve overhead system is a “low-maintenance”
design. Routine adjustments are no longer
necessary, however, measurement should still take place when trouble-shooting performance problems,
or upon completion of a repair that includes removal
and installation of the valve train components or
injectors.

(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471–B,
rotate crankshaft to align damper TDC mark to
12:00 o’clock position.
(a) If both number one cylinder rocker levers are
loose, continue to next step.
(b) If both number one clylinder rocker levers
are not loose, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.
(4) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the following rocker arms: INTAKE
1–2–4 / EXHAUST 1–3–5. Measure the valve lash by
inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm
socket and crosshead (Fig. 32). Refer to VALVE
LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If
the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/
resetting is not necessary. If measurement
finds the lash outside of the limits, adjustment/resetting
is required.

INTAKE

0.152 mm ( 0.006 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MAX

Exhaust

0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MIN.
0.762 mm (0.030 in.)
MAX.

note:
If measured valve lash falls within these
specifications, no adjustment/reset is necessary.
Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse
affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or
level of engine noise.

(5) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the
lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw
until the desired lash is obtained:
² INTAKE 0.254 mm (0.010 in.)
² EXHAUST 0.508 mm (0.020 in.) Tighten the
lock nut to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) and re-check the valve
lash.
(6) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
crankshaft one revolution (360°) to align the
damper TDC mark to the 12 o’clock position.

be measured at the remaining rocker arms: INTAKE
3–5–6 / EXHAUST 2–4–6 . Use the same method as
above for determining whether adjustment is necessary,
and adjust those that are found to be outside of
the limits.
(8) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Connect the battery negative cables.

 

By the way,

I just adjusted (checked) my valve lash this morning and it took a total of about 45 minutes. It would have taken a bit longer but at 92,000 miles on the clock, every single lash was within 1-2 thousandths of the recommended settings of 10/20 (int/exh). I was pretty happy to see that as I'm sure it's never been checked before. I'll check it again as needed which will most likely be @ 150,000. Everytime I work on this motor I end up with a big ole smile on my face. This is by far the easiest modern engine I've ever worked on. The layout is very intuitive, and so far everything has been very easy to get at and work on it. I've fooled around with some duramaxes and powerjokes, but they don't even come close to how these CTD's are layed out in the engine bay.

For the record, this engine has only seen dino oil, Rotella dino oil to be exact. I'm not against syns but you can't argue with the good ole Rotella T. The valve train looked like the day it was first assembled.