Johnny, when I did my intake I just ran the pipe down about 1 1/2 feet, it won't hit anything, nor will it get that dirty. As far as injector tips, I went with Dynomite Diesel Performance 50 HP tips, if you are fairly mechanical they have great step by step instructions on their website, and include a special wrench for removing the tips. If you don't want to tackle this project, I wouldn't think it would cost more than $500 to have them installed by a mechanic. The injector tips are great, nice power, smooth, and I gained an honest 2 mpg (150k on the truck) if I am not hot-rodding it. With the exhaust I just took the truck into a muffler shop and had them cut out the muffler (03's have no cats) and weld in a section of pipe. This will not hurt performance at all, but I would not recommend this route as the thing is really loud when I tow, no towing it's not bad, sounds pretty cool, but put some weight behind it and get above 2100 RPM's and earplugs are needed (it will set off car alarms). I will probably be getting a turbo back system here soon, I think any reputable brand for a good price is fine for exhaust (MBRP, AFE etc.). Any more questions, feel free to ask, there is a lot of experienced people on this site.

 

Oh, one more important thing, if you do go the box/chip/programmer route avoid anything that makes it's power with extra pressure (ie Banks six gun, Edge products etc.). These common rails run at high enough pressures as it is, for the power you want to make you can attain that with just timing, and more fuel.

 

I google search for whatever parts I need and shop away. I usually can find free shipping and no tax if it comes from out of state. I've been using amazon.com a lot lately. Craig

 

You can get it as an add on or as a package. It was included with my big hoss bundle. FYI, don't leave the PDA in your truck during the summer... The battery will swell and kill it. Banks used to trade them in, but after so many were comming back and it was not their product they sent out an advisory about excess cab heat during the summer and refered repairs to Palm. They were very helpfull with getting me in touch with the right people and I had mine fixed in a matter of weeks. If you do buy it seprately from Banks it's the same price as your local electronics store. When mine crapped out I priced them around and they were $199. I don't know if Banks would throw in the dash holder or charge extra for it as it came with my system.

Yes... the PDA has to be on to change settings but if you set it for daily driving and leave it at the house what ever you set on last is where it will stay until you reconnect the PDA... My kit did come with a 6 position **** for changing power levels, but I didn't install it because it was not nessecary. You would have to ask the buys at Banks if they could both be installed and whether the PDA would override the switch... Not my area! LOL...

And for whoever asked about a turbo back exhaust system... I can't speak for all models, but for my 2005 and the like the turbo back is already a 4" pipe, so you really only need to go from cat back with a straight pipe or high flow exhaust... unless you also do a cat delete, then you could just start from right infront of the Cat... Otherwise your just paying for a foot or so of pipe that you already have!

Sounds to me like you have alot to think about and have been given alot of great information. If you have any more questions about my experience with my Banks system feel free to ask. I'll just say I have not had one single problem with my truck or Banks system that I installed at 22k miles... I'm trippin' 120k in a few days problem free!

The only engine work I've had to do was replace an idler pully after my belt jumped 2 ribs... I run low buck Wix oil filters and Valvoline Prem Blue Oil... I change it every 7500 miles... no upgrades to the fuel system other than new fuel filters every 30k or 40k if I remember... I think I changed it last at either 60k or 90k... I don't know... but it's on my list to change it at 120k... and actually i can't remember when the last time I drained the water out of the seperator... I'll do that at 120k to I guess...

Point is... the Banks system is not "DANGEROUS"! Buy what you want and be happy with it!

 

Yeah I really do got a lot to think about. I got a bit before a buy the truck, May.


Thank you for all yalls replys. I will let you guys know when I get the truck and purchase some stuff for it.

 

get a smarty and some gauges and be done

 

All I have left to say is an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If you play with these trucks you will be $paying$ eventually, the cummins is a great motor, but, not bombproof.

 

So I was thinking. Right now I am leaning towards the Airdog fuel system, a muffler and cat delete, a Banks intake, and the Banks ecomind chip with PDA.

The PDA will allow me to look at EGTs and stuff, so i dont think i will get analog gauges.

 

Whole point of buying a Cummins is that it'll work harder and last longer. Turning it into a toy is less than intelligent, it's already overpowered straight from the factory. Engine problems are a direct result of messing with something that is already ideal. Gauges, though, are a good idea.

As to mileage, keep the rpms at 1700-1900 for all road conditions.

 

I can agree that once you start messing with any car, that is when the problems start.

Personally I have always bought cars(in my 6 years of being able to drive) That i have been able to modify and make my own. I like working on them and having fun with it. Does the cummins already have more power than i need? Absolutely. But I am sure I will not mind having more power.

 

Ok, having read through this whole thread and still not believing I was on DTR (I had to check a few times) because of some of the answers given here... wow...

JohnnyBoy... it is way too easy to get caught up into the Banks advertising hype. For what you are wanting to do there are better options that cost less. First, forget about the whole idea of a "kit"... just designed to get maximum money from you for least results. Let me give you an example: by your own post you mention the banks stinger will give 75hp... and this costs what for this kit? $2k? Are you really kidding me??? You could buy a simple power puck for about $160, get 90hp and not spend another dollar and already be ahead of what banks gives. I am qualified to talk about the banks as I went down the whole six-gun w/speedloader road a long time ago. Now let's talk about the so called Banks safety... There are only three ways a downloader or module can add power. They are injection duration (how long the injector stays open to spray fuel), injection timing (when the injection event occurs in relation to piston TDC) and injection pressure. All of these have finite perameters. While too much of any one of these can wreck an engine, generally speaking, pressure is the least desirable way to make power. Why? Because manipulating pressure even under safe maximum limits causes premature wear within the injector causing expensive repairs long before otherwise necessary. Here I will insert that pressure can only gain about a max of 75 hp under most conditions. Most mpg gains are had by manipulating timing. Up to 40hp can be gained without a drop of extra fuel used by getting timing at its optimum point for that particular engine. Banks tuners all use a combination of mostly pressure with a little timing. With their flagship six-gun speedloader option, pressures can get up to 26k. One usually has to run the six-gun on level 4 or above to see any real power gain. If left there all the time, injector life will be shortened. If under normal circumstances you would have gotten 300k miles from your injectors, you will probably only get 150k if running the Banks up all the time. That is not what I call "safe power". Most of the serious tuners will run around primarily with tuners that manipulate duration and timing full time and "stack" or add a pressure only tuner like MP-8, power puck or Dr. Performance that can be used "on the fly" so they can be turned on just when they want to like at the track or for passing and then be turned back off to save injectors. As for the rest of the kit... well buy what you want, all I am saying is you will see minimal returns for the money spent. The intercooler for instance. Yes, it is a quality part. However, your stock intercooler is more than adequate at your desired HP level... the gains you will see by changing this will be negligible at best. Yes it does flow more air... but you will not see the airflow level necessary to benefit.

So then... all that said and not doing any brand cheerleading all you really need is a good downloader or module to get what you want. Exhaust and intake are more a matter of preference than gains.

Best choices in no particular order would be smarty jr (or sr if you really want) Bully Dog triple Dog, Diablo Predator, Quadzilla X2 or Adrenaline, TST power max. You can throw edge in there if you want, but I think they run too hot and smokey for given power levels compared to the others. Just my opinion.

You can get one of those I just listed, and make sure you get a set of gauges whether analog or digital (such as a Quad Commander) and nothing else, still have $1k left over to spend (difference form the Banks stinger kit) and be making more power and have a lot more adjustability too...

Think about it... plenty of us have already gone down that road and felt completely satisfied until we tried something else and realized just how weak Banks was.

 

soulezoo thanks for that post.

I know intake and exhaust help only marginally, i want it for the sound mostly.

The main thing i liked about the Banks was the PDA. But after hearing your information it sounds like the features of the PDA arent worth the abuse to the engine. I am still a month out from doing any of this, and still trying to gather all the info I can.

I guess I will do some more reading up on these other tuners.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

I don't want you to think the Banks PDA system "abuses" the engine. It doesn't. My point is that driving around on high pressure kills injectors over time. That is a known fact. It is just that Banks uses this least desirable way of producing power (pressure), doesn't produce all that much especially for the cost and that there are certainly better and cheaper ways to realize your goals and you won't have to be ridiculed at diesel events for "falling" for the Banks hype. Banks is also famous for all its "safties" always defueling when you want fueling the most...

My longstanding joke about Banks-- "When certain egts are reached, it defuels; when tranny slips, it defuels; when air from the turbo hits cylinders, it defuels; when foot is depressing throttle, it defuels; when putting key in ignition--- it defuels"

I am not telling you what to get; I am only saying you will spend a lot less, get more power and otherwise be much happier going in a different direction...any direction. I currently have a smarty and TST stacked with a power puck. So I know what they will do. I have also had the Banks as I said above. I have also played with PPE, Bully Dog, Edge, Diablo and Quadzilla X2 so I know how they work as well. So I can tell you with confidence any of those are better than the Banks. Well, I am iffy with the edge.

 

I didnt know about the defueling thing. I just heard that they were "safe"

So what would recommend for someone like me, who wants a bit more power, but can change the tune on the fly.

Sorry for all these simple question, I just want to make sure I get it right the first time.
I wont be towing that often, and do mostly highway driving.

 

OK-- this is only "my" opinion. You are going to be limited to about 100hp gain. That is about all you can do before you start to jeopardize your transmission integrity without dumping a bunch of $$ into getting a built tranny. You already mentioned an airdog or the like so that takes care of the fuel pumping end. You won't need a cp3 mod at this level, so you are good there. I'd normally say the smarty jr would be best for you... but you want shift on the fly. The smarty jr has POD (power on demand) which allows this but is a little more problematic with the set up and actual use of it. But, I think it makes the best power for you right now. This leaves you with three choices... A quadzilla X2 or Adrenaline with the new version of commander display for guages (maybe the best budget buy here), or maybe a used bully dog PMT or my personal favorite in this instance would be the TST power max with PDA as a choice since you seem to like that idea. The TST though is an all out tuner and you would be advised to leave it on lower levels. Same with the Quad or Bully Dog. Research those 4 and decide what suits you best. Edge with attitude also can do this, but I am not as partial to it.