FYI Moogs Lifetime replacement is actually a one time free replacement . I am on my fourth track bar on my 96 .
Moog would not warranty a second time.

 

Well, this Sat, I'm replacing all 4 ball joints and all my u joints are junk and dryed out! EVERYTHING is being replaced with geasable parts!

 

Guys, how hard is it to replace ball joints? I'm thinking about doing this being that my truck pulls to the left even though the alignment is dead on and I have 90K miles on my truck. Shoot, I might as well replace the track bar too, now that I think about it.

BTW, anyone know where I can get the best price on Ball Joints and a new trackbar?

 

absolutely amazing!!!!

everyone moaning about ball joint failure.... I've posted solution of injecting grease into ball joints designed without grease zerts. this is done with a large hollow needle grease fitting. poke needle through rubber boot at base. inject full of grease.

it's not rocket science, keep your ball joints from going dry, if you want decent service life.

NOT A SINGLE PERSON HAS MADE A COMMENT!

 

Dodge front end design is JUNK

 

2500

Most people don't like to admit to a good idea when they see one

 

can't believe my eyes...

someone actually acknowledge my posts

seriously ... I've been injecting grease into joints without zerts for a number years. I've never had a ball joint or tie rod end or Ujoint failure when it's been pumped full of grease.

 

I did inject mine before they went bad, 50k miles and running. I think it turns easier and I get better MPG. Just kidding, I did fill the boots with the needle, I figure there is nothing to loose and it should help.

 

can you guys post a pic of where you inject?

 

in my arm. j/k i would like to know also.

 

you can puncture rubber boot most anywhere. then fill with grease. but it's better near base, so when you pull needle out it somewhat seals. but if a little grease pukes back out. not a big deal.

NOTE: this needs to be done while joints are still good. once joint goes dry, damage starts and will not heal itself. even if you fill back up full of grease. it's too late.

long ago.... when full service gas stations were all over. it was normal to take your vehicles in for an oil change. shooting grease zerts in tie rod ends, ball joints, Ujoints etc was serviced along with oil filter. this was normally done every 3000-6000 miles.

car mfg have purposefully left off zerts to make sure major components don't last forever. usually they last over 100K or beyond mfg's warranty period.

 

Does anyone know if MOOG part # 7448 is the correct part for the 3G 4x4 Rams? I'm asking because I'm getting ready to order but the description says it's for a DANA 60.

Can anyone confirm the correct Moog Upper Ball Joint part number?

Thanks!

 

Crabjoe,

Uppers K7448

Lowers K7467

 

Specs are .060 for uppers and .090 for lowers. Correct procedure is to use a dial indicator. Seems like 1/8" is too much.

Pete

 

I have the same problem. BALL JOINTS, second time with less that 100,000.
This time the tie rod and the wheel berrings as well. Dealer no help. Not impressed. My last diesel was a 4X4 and another brand. 264,000 and no front end repairs. This truck is abused and the maintainance is on the dealer plan. NOT inpressed with it a 2003 3500 duelly 2X4 and in the last 16 months, cracked injector, turbo replaced, lift pump replaced, and each time down for 7 to 10 days waiting for parts.