Ok, looks like my rear U-joint has got some slop in it. Had it replaced last August at a shop and they charged me $250 for it. Can't afford it right now and I need to get it fixed. I have changed U-joints before in other trucks, just wanted to make sure there wasn't anything different or special I should know about. thanks.

 

I bought a whole new driveshaft with the joints and the front spline, ready to slip in, for $180. from Bremerton Dodge on line.

Seems like a good way to go. That was almost a year ago, so they may have gone up some, but still..............

 

Raspy, you were able to buy a complete driveshaft ready to go for that? that might easier to do.

 

I just bought the ujoint ($40~ greaseable) and let the firestone down the street have at it, guy didnt know what he was in for when he did it for $20.

 

Too many trucks like mine around here to get a local to do it very cheap. Last year the shop that did mine was already doing new tires, upper & lower ball joints,etc.. the rear U-joint held them up the longest time. Truck was supposed to be ready by 1:00 pm that day...at 6:30 with all 6 shop guys working on it they finally got it together. Shop owner told me he knew there was a reason he shouldn't have gave me a firm price on the whole deal. I knew 250 for that was high, but I had already cut him to bone on the tires and I supplied the ball joints so I guess he had to make up some money somewhere in the deal.

 

Some of the problem is the new ujoints usually dont fit right. Most of the greaseables are too tall, you have to shave down the ridge on the caps so the retainer clips will actually fit in the grove when you reinstall them. If you know that going in, its usually fairly simple(once they get the old ones out) which is most of the time, and why I didnt even try to take mine apart.(I dont have a press)

 

If the rear is anything like the front transfer case ones, you definitely don't want to try it without a press. Or a torch to heat it with. We had 30 ton on it and it sounded like a bomb went off when it finally broke free from the heat. I sure wish that I could find someone to do it for $20.

 

I replaced my whole drive shaft also. Best $200 I ever spent. Slip the old one out and put the new one in. I'll replace the U joints when I get time and then I'll have an extra driveshaft if I need it or might sell it to someone that needs one that's ready to go.
Jay

 

LOL, like I said, he didnt know what he got in for on that 2+hr job
The guy inside didnt want to touch it since the truck wasnt there, and he asked the guys in the back, one guy said hed do it. Couldnt find that deal when I went back for the other U-joint though, management changed and they didnt want to do it at all. Cost $60 at pepboys for them to beat on it for 3hrs


Just a tip, if you have it out, do both U-joints at the same time, dont wait for the other one to go south a few months later

 

I melted the plastic guts out, but they were glued in there. I couldn't get the caps off and finally just cut the cross in half with the torch and the bearings fell right into the middle. I couldn't believe it, the plastic was still in the grooves and I spent quite a while picking it all out. I think I'll go for the whole drive shaft replacement next time, or sucker someone in at a shop to do it. There are way better things I'd like to spend my time doing to the truck than busting my knuckles over u joints.

 

Pulled mine in driveway.Took shaft to ig truck driveline shop.Put in two Splicer u/joints while I waited.Less then $100 parts/labor.Took shop less then 45 minutes.

 

I made a cheezy little video when I did mine.

 

Found a shop that will charge 75 for labor to do both u-joints on truck, now just trying to find the best deal on u-joints. Read some where to use 351A Precision....are those better than the factory or about the same? found them locally from 39 to 48, then I found some on a website someone recommended and they listed for @10 a piece, which sounded too good to be true. any advice?

 

The drive line shop I used only carried SPLICER non greasable but they fit perfect.They commented that non greasables were stronger and they had been using them(Splicer brand) for over 20 years ad saw very long life/service from them.

 

I think the one I bought was a precision, but I don't recall for sure. It was like $42.

It is greasable and has the plastic things on the end of the cross (with grease grooves), where the factory one had all steel cross.

I only got like 45k when the factory center joint went out, so I don't see how this one could be worse.