Anti-slip performance in deep snow
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From: Eastern & Western Merryland
Anti-slip performance in deep snow
The other day I tried to pull a chevy 1500 4x4 that was stuck in some snow. The snow was 20 inches deep on a blacktop parking lot when I finally made to where he was stuck. Middle of my kneecap when I hopped out of the truck. It was very wet and slushy, and my truck didn't sink all the way down to the blacktop; probably about 3-4 inches of slush was under the tires. This guy ventured off the pavement and onto some grassy area. He was floating on the stuff, and apparently tried to motor his way out when he realized he was in extremis.<br><br>I couldn't get enough of a grip to pull him out, but did manage to get stuck myself for a bit (no good deed goes unpunished). My suit is at the cleaners and I hope my shoes weren't ruined.....<br><br>What did surprise me was the performance of my anti-slip. At one point when I was stuck, the left rear and right front wheels were rolling, and the others were not. I even got out and checked, engine idling, 4 low, 2nd gear. I know its "limited slip" rather than a locker, but I thought it should have performed better than that. I easily motored around the lot and up the hill to get to him, but only when I tugged on him did I get stuck.<br><br>Maybe it was the particular situation, because in the days before, I had pulled out a 4x4 Dakota and Explorer no sweat, in addition to about 5 other cars. In that deep snow, their 4x4 systems were useless. All in the neighborhood.<br><br>Is this typical for anti-slip?<br><br>BTW, a couple of months ago there was a thread going around about having people signing a release of liability before pulling on them. I thought about that when one guy in a Gran Prix was stuck in about 18 inches of powder and in the way of the county plow. There was no place for us to hook up to, and he was in such a panic to be pulled, he wrapped my tow strap around his drivers side McPherson strut. They hook up, I pull. I really didn't want to pull him and risk bending something but he was adamant about it - but it worked fine. That little 20,000# capacity strap from Pep Boys worked great.
Re:Anti-slip performance in deep snow
Apparently if the difference in grip between the left and right tire is too great (as when one tire on ice) the limited slip will not engage. Using the e-brake can cause it to engage your other rear tire, but of course nothing can be done for the other front since it has a plain open diff.<br><br>My next truck I'd love to have an ARB air locker setup for front and rear.
Re:Anti-slip performance in deep snow
The limited slip rear end is just that, limited slip. It is not a locker as we all might want it to be. I've been in you're situation before, never had any trouble. Once you get one wheel to the pavement, or to solid ground, you can pull anything out!!!!<br>
Re:Anti-slip performance in deep snow
The problem is that with a limited slip, depending on the type, you only ever have some percentage or factor of the torque that is being used to spin the tire that is on ice/snow that gets transmitted to the other tire. If the tire that is stuck is spinning freely enough, the other still only gets a small amount of torque. Sometimes that's enough, sometimes that's not. <br><br>So what kind of lockers are available for these American Axle diffs?
Re:Anti-slip performance in deep snow
ive heard alot of people say to engage the e-brake about 2-3 clicks and then both tires will engage, im not sure if this helps or not, ive never noticed a difference.........anyone else?<br>
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Re:Anti-slip performance in deep snow
Thie e-brake trick works with a limited slip. The maximum amount of torque that can be supplied to either rear wheel is determined by which ever tire has the LEAST traction. If it takes only a small amount of torque to cause one wheel to slip (on ice) the other can only have that same amount of torque, so it never gets enough to move.
By applying the e-brake and then the gas your are forcing the slipping wheel to take more torque before slipping, this higher torque is then also given to the other wheel and could make the difference in getting unstuck.
Check out auto.howstuffworks.com and search for differentials to get a good understanding of how they work.
By applying the e-brake and then the gas your are forcing the slipping wheel to take more torque before slipping, this higher torque is then also given to the other wheel and could make the difference in getting unstuck.
Check out auto.howstuffworks.com and search for differentials to get a good understanding of how they work.
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Re:Anti-slip performance in deep snow
[quote author=quantrill88 link=board=20;threadid=11300;start=0#107878 date=1045974858]<br>ive heard alot of people say to engage the e-brake about 2-3 clicks and then both tires will engage, im not sure if this helps or not, ive never noticed a difference.........anyone else?<br><br>[/quote]<br>Yes and no. It does help *sometimes* depending on traction differences L-R **AND** total overall traction available. One problem w/the Belleville friction plate type LSD (PowerLok, TractionLok etc) is that under extreme L-R traction differences, one axle will easily exceed the plate pre-load (static torque split), thus one tire spins helplessly. Applying a braking force to the wheels can cause enough torque to be transmitted through the differential side gears to cause sufficient dynamic clutch pack engagement to allow more even torque split (I.E., get BOTH wheels moving). These type LSDs are dependent on torque applied. In other words, the more extreme the L - R difference, the less effective. They work best in a limited range of conditions, locking hardest when both wheels have some traction and torque applied. The clutches lock harder with more applied torque (to a point), thus the enhancement with the e-brake application.<br><br>The E-brake trick works with an open diff too, although best w/a hand operated type. My old Plymouth Valiant would go just about anywhere w/a set of snowtires, and the occasional e-brake assist trick. <br><br>Some type diffs REQUIRE brake application to torque split properly (gear driven, non-clutch type). Back in our "blizzard of '93" (39", 24 hrs), the national guard was called out here. They promptly got their HumVees stuck big time. Took guys w/6 cyl Fords & Toyota 4wds & Jeeps to pull them out. Seems no one told the NG that the Hummers had F, R, & center Gleason-Torsen diffs. They act like an open diff, until brake and throttle applied at same time to equal split torque. <br><br>Discovered the Dana80 LSD only has 2 of the 6 friction plates alternated w/discs. This reduces initial torque split (pre-load bias), but presumably makes for a better behaved differential. When I rebuilt mine, changed the arrangement to 4 alternating plates/discs. Does not help as much for dynamic traction as it does with static loads (one wheel on ice etc). Right after I bought my truck, I got it stuck in my driveway when I parked the right rear on an ice patch. Went out next morn to leave - truck wouldn't move. Just spun the right rear. Thought the LSD must've been shot, but wasn't. Just a trait of the Belleville type LSD's. My experience has been cone/clutch LSDs are much more effective and reliable (but not available for Dana80).<br><br>Photo attached of Dana80 PowerTrak LSD, taken w/carrier half removed.<br><br>BTW - spinning one tire excessively with a clutch type LSD **WILL** damage the fricition plates/discs. May not notice at first, but LSD action will progressively drop - and bearing wear will rapidly increase due to abrasive, burnt friction lining material being circulated in oil. Why it's important to check & change diff oil regularly.<br><br>Just my .02...<br>Regards,<br>-Scott<br><br>ps - have found that if stuck in 4wd, try applying light braking (service brake) *and* turning steering L/R while still under light throttle will often split enough torque to slipping wheels to get out. Not always, but saved my butt more than once.
Re:Anti-slip performance in deep snow
Speaking of Torsen diffs (as used on Hummers), from <br>HowStuffWorks<br><br>The Torsen (from Torque Sensing) works as an open differential when the amount of torque going to each wheel is equal. As soon as one wheel starts to lose traction, the difference in torque causes the gears in the Torsen differential to bind together. The design of the gears in the differential determines the torque bias ratio. For instance, if a particular Torsen differential is designed with a 5:1 bias ratio, it is capable of applying up to five times more torque to the wheel that has good traction. <br><br>These devices are often used in high-performance all-wheel-drive vehicles. Like the viscous coupling, they are often used to transfer power between the front and rear wheels. In this application, the Torsen is superior to the viscous coupling because it transfers torque to the stable wheels before the actual slipping occurs. <br><br>However, if one set of wheels loses traction completely, the Torsen differential will be unable to supply any torque to the other set of wheels. The bias ratio determines how much torque can be transferred, and five times zero is zero. <br><br>Hummer!<br>The HMMVV, or Hummer, uses Torsen® differentials on the front and rear axles. The owner's manual for the Hummer proposes a novel solution to the problem of one wheel coming off the ground: Apply the brakes. By applying the brakes, torque is applied to the wheel that is in the air, and then five times that torque can go to the wheel with good traction.<br> <br>
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