Here are the test procedures.

 

Any input here guys? I've been on travel for the past week but am back at it.

 

Before I left, I pulled what was supposed to be the screened banjo bolt on the bottom of the fuel canister (line that goes to the CP3) and there was no screen that I could find. Either mine doesn't have it or I'm looking in the wrong place.

 

So far everything seems to still point to a failing transfer pump. I pulled the bed yesterday and pressure washed everything to prep for replacing the pump. I'm going to order a FASS system today with a Vulcan draw straw V. Still undecided on the platinum system or the titanium system. I found out talking to the one of the tech's at Geno's that the Platinum pumps aren't being produced anymore. The price difference is not much and apparently they weren't selling enough to keep that line. I liked the Platinum series as it only required one filter and it seemed a little more compact setup.

 

Here's a good DTR writeup on putting the Vulcan DSV into the stock fuel canister.

 

Oh, i also got a good voltage reading at the pump and it was the same as my battery. I did a flow test right at the fuel canister and it was still @300ml in 10 sec so that rules out any line blockages.

 

So I found out why I wasn't getting the flow that I was expecting. When I went to pull the canister out I discovered a lot of trash in the strainers. There isn't much in the tank mainly cause it was all in the pump strainer. I had already ordered a FASS Platinum pump system with a Vulcan Draw Straw V pickup. I dove in this weekend to get it installed.

Here's a few picts of my discovery.

 

So since I had such a large amount of junk present I felt that cleaning it up and putting it back together was not the answer. It may have been fine for a while but I wanted to piece of mind of a better pump. I got the pump mounted, the electrical harness ran and wired in, and most of the canister modified.

I completely tore down the canister to get all the parts good and clean. Then I used some cutters and a dremmel to get a flat spot in the top for the draw straw suction fitting. A unibit got the hole in without any cracking. I also drilled the 1/2" holes in the canister cup to keep the cup from running dry when the level gets low.

 

Anyone still reading this?

 

I'll keep posting so maybe this will help someone someday...

I finished up the pump install and plumbing. After getting the air bled off after a few tries I got it to fire up. Good to hear it run again after a few weeks of troubleshooting. I would like to say that the lack of flow from the pump was the main issue but I still get a slightly longer start than I'm used to. Not much, just enough that I'm not 100% satisfied.

I've ordered a special tool #9012 to do a fuel return test. I'd like to know if I'm getting excessive flow before I retorque the connector feed tubes. I ended up getting a set of crowsfoot wrenches to be able to torque the fuel line fittings on the FASS and they should come in handy for the injector hard lines too. Also I ordered a fitting that was not in the FASS or Vulcan DS-5 kits and that was a fitting from pushlock 1/2" hose to 3/8" dorman. This will go on the return from the FASS pump back to the fuel canister.

I'll try to get some more picts. It was dark by the time I got it fired up last night.

 

Ok, so I can say with certainty that I have fixed it. I'll make the next few posts to talk about the last steps that put this one to bed.

The last pictures I posted showed the canister removed. I had some questions that weren't answered in the installation instructions (either the DS-5 or the FASS) but after a quick call to Vulcan Performance I got their answer. It wasn't an answer I was very happy about but at that point there wasn't much else to do but push on. So in the DS-5 instructions they tell you to cut the factory flex tubes in the canister and completely remove the H pipe/valve assembly. What this leaves you with is 2 short tubes. If I were to do it again I would NOT have cut these and basically left them long so that the returns (one from the FASS and the other from the engine) dump directly into the canister and not from 3" above it. I would have gutted the H-pipe/valve to omit it's features. Minor thing but I would have like to see the lines extend down to the canister. New longer and straight flex lines would have been even better.

Another thing was that I had to separately source the 1/2" pushlock to 3/8" Dorman fitting to attach the FASS blue return line to the OEM canister port that used to be for the stock pump flow. It would have been nice to have had this from the beginning.

Also, they didn't tell you what to do with the wires in the canister that used to go to the OEM pump. I ended up cutting them although I would have preferred to pull the pins out of the connector but couldn't get them free.

Anyway, here are the picts of my finished canister sans the correct return fitting.

 

So now that I had the canister back in it was time to do the fuel line routing...

I drilled and tap'd a hole in the side of the bed support bracket that holds an adel clamp that holds my filter. There's a stainless steel screw there that just needs to be loosened to slip the filter out. I like that the platinum system uses one of these cheap filters to catch the bulk of the crud before it ever gets to the FASS system.

All hoses were covered with 3/4" split loom and zip tied securely to the factory plumbing. All fuel fittings were torqued down to the required 18ft/lbs using a crows foot wrench on my torque wrench.

 

Finished pump and a shot of the correct fitting. The OEM Dorman fitting can be cut off and pushed into the 1/2" blue hose with a hose clamp. I used this as a temporary setup to get me going before the correct fitting came in. I wasn't comfortable doing this permanently.

 

Now that the system was installed I purged the air out and connected anything that I had disconnected. After a few tries it fired up.

I let it run for a bit but every time I would crank it it seemed to take a fraction of a second longer to fire than I thought it should. I wondered at this point if I didn't still have something not 100% right. I had not re-torqued the connector tube nuts or messed with rail lines at all because I wanted to isolate that as an issue before doing so. I ordered the 9012 fuel injector return flow test fitting. This separates the pump and overpressure flow from the injector return flow. Once I figured out where to hook up the hoses and how to perform the test I ran a few tests to see how it looked. I got ~100ml of flow return from the injectors and ~800ml of flow from the test fitting. Both of which are good numbers so that told me that I didn't need to mess with the connector tubes or injectors at this point.

Fittings (L to R)...
-1/2" pushlock to 3/8" dorman return fitting from the FASS to OEM canister.
-9012 for fuel injector return flow test
-9011 fuel injector block off tool

I didn't need to block off any injectors since the flow was less than 180ml.

 

Here's the page from the manual for how to perform the return flow test.