Approx prices for some of these parts are.... (don't dispute please, these are just what I found)

-stock injector Bosch $380
-Fuel control actuator $108
-Cascade overflow valve $38
-check valve $13

 

Well at lease it was affordable, you probally heard that one already. Get the capping tool I've always had good luck finding the bad injector on first or second try. Having batteries fully charged can usually spin engine over fast enough to build rail pressure high enough so that PCM will allow injector driver to turn injectors on. If you could monitor rail pressure while cranking that will tell you if rail pressure is equal to set point pressure. If rail pressure is too low because of leakage and CP3 pump not able to build the pressure high enough to start. I had a very cheap friend that could only start his truck in the morning was by rolling it down a hill and popping the clutch in second gear. The higher cranking RPM allowed the CP3 pump to overcome the leakage at the injector. He finally coughed up the bucks to replace the bad injector.

 

Not fixed yet so I'm not sure how affordable it's going to be. I've been reading up as much as I can on this issue so that when I dig into it this weekend I'll have a better understanding. First is to get that actuator out and check it. I also want to check resistance on each injector again to see if any of them stand out. If both of those check good then I'll have to start buying test tools and parts.

 

You could first try tightening the fuel tube nuts to spec. The torque is 37 ft. lbs. If they are loose it would allow fuel to leak pass injector and return to tank. This is one of the first steps before capping injectors at the rail when doing injector return flow test. Ohm test will not tell you if injector is leaking. Excellent video on CRD basics

 

The other day I did notice that one of the injector feed tubes had a support clamp that was loose. I think it was a little blue 2 piece clamp with a small bolt through it. I'll check that too before I go any further.

So I need to check the torque between the feed tube nut that's screwed into the head and the nut that's on the metal fuel line going to it's respective injector? Open ended wrench on the feed tube nut and a crows foot wrench (?) on the line nut (with torque wrench)?

Do I also need to check the torque of the feed tube nut to the head?

 

The reason the #4 injector line always crack, those clamps loosen allowing fuel line to vibrate and fracture. You may find tightening that way difficult to do, but if you can get in there to tighten go for it. I usually remove all the fuel lines and tighten with a socket and torque wrench set to 37 ft. lbs. Keep lines clean blow out with air.

 

Pulled the actuator off this morning. The resistance reads 3.3 ohms which is within the spec that was mentioned in the video above (1.5-5 ohms) from pin to pin. I get overload when I pin to the actuator body (ground). I did not get it to rattle when I shook it. How 'official' is that shake, rattle, or replace test?

 

very official, replace it and problem fixed

 

So I called Geno's this morning and spoke with one of their tech guys to ask a few questions. One thing that they mentioned was checking to see if fuel is making it up to the filter canister. I had not checked that yet. I went ahead and ordered an actuator, a rail block off tool, and an injector feed tube removal tool. I figured at the moment the actuator was my biggest suspect but if I found something else before I got to change it out it would probably be a good thing to keep around. I called the dealer and they wanted like $260 for it. Geno's wanted $108 for the same part.

So this evening I plug back in the few harnesses that I had undone in order to reach the #4 area. I drained the fuel canister and pulled the cover/filter out. A little sediment in the bottom but not terrible. I had my wife turn the key on and all I got was a dribble of fuel into the empty canister. Not quite what I was expecting. I know it only takes a few key cycles to fully prime this canister so after doing about 6 cycles I may have gotten a total of 1/2" of fuel in there. I am going to take it that this is not right and will start reading up on that tomorrow.

On each key cycle I listened for fuel pump/fuel control actuator sounds. I got a buzz and a click when turned on and also off.

All for today. Thoughts on the little amount of fuel?

 

You should have 5-10PSI from the low side (lift) pump.
You have to bump the ignition key to get the lift pump running.

A better way to do a basic check on the lift pump is to put a bucket under the fuel filter cannister water drain. Open the drain and bump the ignition key. Fuel should really shoot out of the water drain.
This is also an easy way to drain a fuel tank.

Where is your fuel pump located?
Sediment in the bottom of the fuel filter cannister is not good. Clean it out and toss in a good quality Baldwin fuel filter.

A lift pump fuel pressure gauge is highly recommended.

 

I was doing some reading on this last night and yes I did see where you have to bump the starter to get the pump to stay on for ~20-30 seconds. I'll try that this afternoon. Sounds like the flow should be around 510ml for about 10 seconds of lift pump run time (exact amount varies depending on what source you check). Significantly less and chances are it's a bad pump.

I have a fuel pressure gauge that I can hook up but need to find the best place to put it.

My pump is in the tank since I have an 06 model. Seems around 2005 they started putting them all in the tank.

I will definitely be putting in a new filter and cleaning out the sediment. I always run fleetguard filters (get all my stuff from Geno's) and always keep spares around. The small amount of stuff in the canister doesn't really bother me too bad since it's on the upstream side of things but I know it's not good to keep there.

 

So in video 4 of 4 that I posted on page 1 of this thread starts off with the fuel pressure and flow tests. They state that you should get 380ml of fuel during the 10 second test at the input to the CP3. Somewhere I got that this number should be 510 ml or so. I ran the test this evening.

I did it twice and both times got around 300 ml of fuel. This was with no filter and an empty canister. The first time I left the valve open and counted to 10 and then closed it. The second time I ran it closed and then dumped into the graduated container. Either way, I didn't get 380 or 510 ml.

My parts from Geno's came in today. Super quick service considering I ordered them yesterday morning.

I'll get the FCA on and plug everything back in tomorrow to see if it cranks. I'll do that before I crack the fuel lines open for a retorque.

 

I found a pretty good article on testing the transfer pump.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd...mp-diagnostics

 

In that last article I posted... they do the fuel flow test for the duration of the pump on cycle which they state as ~25 seconds and accumulate at least 45 oz. (1330 ml)

I did the pump tests as best I could and I never got anything close to...
-the 380ml from video 4 of 4 (for a 10 second test)
-the 510-520 as stated online in various places (for a 10 second test)
-the 1330 ml as stated in the last link pump test (for the 25 second duration)

Another thing worth noting is that it seemed like my pump only runs for approx 17 seconds, not the 25 seconds as stated.

I was getting around 300 ml for the full duration that I could hear my pump running ~17 seconds. These tests were on the output of the fuel canister (input to the cp3). I pulled the rubber line off and attached a fuel pressure gauge/extension hose into a graduated bucket.

So on fuel pressure.... The highest I ever saw after bumping the starter to get the pump going was ~6 psi. Everything that I can find online states ~10 psi.

I'm looking for some confirmation that the pump is bad. Can anyone chime in here? I don't really want to purchase a $600 fuel pump system if it's not needed.

Another thing... I got the new fuel pressure actuator in yesterday and I shook the crap out of that thing with NO rattles. I'm going to have to say that that test is not very conclusive. The 3 things that make me thing that the actuator is still good is that...
-it doesn't rattle --just like the new one
-the resistance of the coil on the solenoid reads the same resistance as the new one ~3.3 ohms
-it clicks when it turns off just like the troubleshooting document states

I have not put it in yet as I want to put the fuel question to rest first. I also have not gotten back to the fuel injector feed tube torques either.

 

Doing more homework I found that the reason I was getting all sorts of different flow numbers (in addition to so-and-so said that's what's it's supposed to be) was that some of them were applying to different models. Sometimes it wasn't clear what model a spec was pertaining to. So once I figured out that the Service Manual had all these test procedures in it, I went straight to the source. Wish I had done that in the first place since I spent hours searching for the correct answer when I had it all along.

For an 06 model HPCR engine with the in-tank transfer pump, according to the service manual, it should put out 430 ml of fuel in a 10 second period. This is referenced in section 9-1582 through 1584

If you don't have the correct flow in the 10 second test it says to then check a strainer that's on the banjo bolt on the output of the fuel canister (bottom) and then repeat the test. If it's still low, then check the strainer on the pickup of the transfer pump in the tank. If all blockages are clear, no lines are damaged, the pump has proper voltage, and the filter is clean, then you can assume that the pump is bad and must be replaced.

I have yet to find any pressure references for the transfer pump.