Both front AAM axle u-joints are bad at 101,000; I get a bad vibration at 20-30 and 60mph. I am guessing that the vibration is from the bad u-joints. I hear that the OEM parts had durability issues. Anyone else with the same problem? I hear from the shops some are going bad as early as 60,000 miles and that the hub can be brutally difficult to remove during the u-joint replacement process. Does anyone have a how to for the AAM axle u-joint replacement?
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2004.5 CTD 2500 Quadcab
4” Lift / Duel Front Stabilizer
17” Weld Evo Wheels with Toyo 35” M/T
Canopy / Liner

 

It should be just like any other solid axle axle u-joint replacement.

You'll want to pop the cover and drain the fluid, loosen the axle hub nuts, jack up the truck, pull the tires, pull the calipers and brackets, pull the rotor, take the hub nut all the way off, take out the 4 unit hub mounting bolts on the backside of the knuckle, pull the hub then pull the axle shafts out through the knuckle. Be careful here to not hurt the inner tube seals as you pull the splines free of the side gears.

Once they're out you'll need to pull the c-clips and pound out the caps like you would a drivehsaft u-joint but just on both sides this time. Install is the reverse, plus filling the front diff.

These joints are spinning the whole time, having them fail eventually doesn't seem unreaosnable. In this application as a tow rig, I'd probably prefer a greasable though. I run sealed life series units on my trail rig but I don't need the tiny bit of extra cross strength here and the ability to inject new grease owuld extend their lives I think.

 

Just replaced both front axle u-joints with ACDelco at 138,000. Unfortunately, I didn't have time or opportunity to shop around first before having to perform emergency surgery so both are non-greasable. I'd have preferred greasable.

All in all, not really that difficult of a job. I'd advise checking balljoints while you're in there though. My balljoints went at the same time as u-joints.

 

i watched them do it at the garage and they did NOT take the ball joints nor axel nut off they took of the tire, then brake calaper, then rotor, then one screw with wheel speed sensor, after that there are 4 bolts from the inner holding everything on once you remove them they put a block of wood in againsted the frame start it up turn the wheel slightly and the whole axle poped out took them maybe an hour and a half.

i had them do one so i know how easy it is to do the other
i put in a greasable ones.

 

Nobody said take the balljoints off, he said check them for wear.

I wouldn't want to be forcing out u-joint from axle shafts still attached to unit hubs. Silly easy to just blast off the hub nut with the impact and pull the hub off.

 

This thread might be helpful...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=1#post2210979

 

I appreciate all of the input. This weekend I will replace the axle u-joints and check/replace the tie rod ends, probably go with the moog adjustable (if needed), unless there is a better solution. The handling with this truck has never been good, maybe that will help. Again, thank you to all that have had input.

 

Drifting,

I did both of mine about 117,000 miles. I took it apart to do a Dynatrac kit and ball joints and found the axle u-joints were both bad.

You have a vibration a 20-30 MPH and I'm betting it's not the axle joints that are causing it. That's too slow for them to be vibrating unless one is snapped off and you'd see and hear that easily. Maybe it's the front driveline joint.

I got my greasable axle joints at Napa.

If you are going in anyway, maybe you should consider new greasable ball joints too. What a difference a tight front end makes! Don't forget the '08 steering linkage and track-bar bushings. Sheesh, it never ends.

 

I lost one of the joints on my rear drive line at 50k. The other two were getting there. I'm just glad i wasnt 100 miles from civilization like i am alot of the time.

I pulled the complete shaft out and took it to a shop that does all my driveline work. they replaced all joints, made sure they were really greased, and spin balanced the assembly. truck has almost 80k now, so far so good. Not sure why the failure. The seals seemed hashed out..... I was unable to replace with a different brand of u-joint. Apparently its an odd ball size that only AAM makes. I really feel their axles are the best i've ever been around bar none, i just hope this u-joint thing doesnt become a 50k service item. Front seems fine. But in all fairness, i lug the crap out of it all the time. I'm sure that doesnt help the drive system. Lots of backlash and torque loading on the poor ol girl...

 

cbx,

I bought a new factory driveline from Bremerton Dodge for $180. on line. It came ready to bolt in with a new spline and everything! I decided to have it in stock so I'm ready when the time comes for new u-joints. Then just rebuild the old one with greasable joints and have it ready to go. Your mileage seems low but I think you're right that lugging it hammers the drivetrain. I've got an automatic and the original driveline has 167,000 miles and counting.

 

I only got 30k on my axle u joints b4 I had 2 replace with greasables

 

What should I be looking for, hearing or feeling to tell when it might be time to look at replacing mine? My truck has 109K miles on all it's original U-joints and ball joints.

..

 

I first heard them start to squeak then I could feel a shimmy in the steering wheel making tight turns in parking lots almost like it was in four wheel drive. They were dry and rusty inside and they were binding up but I was doing a lot of snow plowing with my truck since new.

 

No need to drain the oil....

 

Seems the local shops out here are seeing an influx of this problem, some are still using the AAM axle u-joints as replacements......any thoughts.....if they originally went bad and some sooner than others, I would tend to stay away from that product? The axles might be great but the axle u-joint don't seem very durable. I guess time might tell???? However, I will not be using them.