48RE vs 6spd manual
and I may be all wet!!!!
@ 2K RPM 6th hole,, Im running 63 MPH speedo 62 on the GPS,,, my buddies 04 with an automatic same RPM same tires runs 72 mph????? My tires are 31+ inches tall
I guess I need to put it on the rack and do it the old fashioned way one revolution of the tire and count the yoke revs??????
RR2, you have 3.73's. Those are the same rpm/mph numbers my 06 ran before changing tires. I am also pretty sure that you could only get 3.73's w/ the g56.
Robertm, there are a lot of factors when selecting a trans. I had an '02 powerstroke w/ an auto and a basic rebuild was 2500.00. you can get a stock clutch for 800-1000 installed or another 3-500 for a stonger clutch on a manual trans. On a used truck I would think either one would need something sooner or later. I have an '06 w/ the g56 and 115k on it and am close to needing a clutch. The Ford had about this mileage when the tranny needed to be rebuilt. I will be at 1000.00 less with a strong clutch. However, when I asked the tranny shop about a rebuild on a manual trans, if it were to grenade, they said they are typically more expensive to rebuild. But if you treat them right I would think that a clutch is all that would be needed.
Also, maintenance on a manual is quite a bit less expensive. It costs me 30.00 for a fluid change and is much easier than the auto. The manual says 50k but I do it once a year, about 30k or so. I think to keep an auto in tip top shape you need to have a fluid change every 20k. I live in Colorado and really enjoy being able to select a single gear for climbing twisty grades. I don't think I will have another auto, but you never know.
Good luck.
Robertm, there are a lot of factors when selecting a trans. I had an '02 powerstroke w/ an auto and a basic rebuild was 2500.00. you can get a stock clutch for 800-1000 installed or another 3-500 for a stonger clutch on a manual trans. On a used truck I would think either one would need something sooner or later. I have an '06 w/ the g56 and 115k on it and am close to needing a clutch. The Ford had about this mileage when the tranny needed to be rebuilt. I will be at 1000.00 less with a strong clutch. However, when I asked the tranny shop about a rebuild on a manual trans, if it were to grenade, they said they are typically more expensive to rebuild. But if you treat them right I would think that a clutch is all that would be needed.
Also, maintenance on a manual is quite a bit less expensive. It costs me 30.00 for a fluid change and is much easier than the auto. The manual says 50k but I do it once a year, about 30k or so. I think to keep an auto in tip top shape you need to have a fluid change every 20k. I live in Colorado and really enjoy being able to select a single gear for climbing twisty grades. I don't think I will have another auto, but you never know.
Good luck.

As far as the manual vs auto, go drive both and see what you think. If all you are towing is 10k or less and you want a DD, the manual sucks in traffic. You CANNOT beat on the 6 speeds manuals, speed shift them, get lazy with the clutch and accelerator, or you will be spending $$ to fix them. No where near as forgiving as an auto.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Shreveport LA for 10 days at a time, Groveton TX the rest
Nope, 4.10's were, and I believe still are, available special order on a build. You just have to know how to do it and thats a closely held secret. 
As far as the manual vs auto, go drive both and see what you think. If all you are towing is 10k or less and you want a DD, the manual sucks in traffic. You CANNOT beat on the 6 speeds manuals, speed shift them, get lazy with the clutch and accelerator, or you will be spending $$ to fix them. No where near as forgiving as an auto.

As far as the manual vs auto, go drive both and see what you think. If all you are towing is 10k or less and you want a DD, the manual sucks in traffic. You CANNOT beat on the 6 speeds manuals, speed shift them, get lazy with the clutch and accelerator, or you will be spending $$ to fix them. No where near as forgiving as an auto.
I want @ least 285/75-70/17's but they have to be E load rated,,, preferably 33" tall!!!
GIG EM
Go aggies!!!!! T U SUX!!!!!
Toyo has an e-rated 295 in the Open Country M/T, I think they are rated for 3,860lbs. You can get a G56 with 4:10's, my uncle has one, it's an 06 and was bought straight off the lot. Eric
Load range E, and they are a shade over 33" installed. Expensive, but a great tire for traction and wear. They are done now but thats with 48k and lots of towing.
Also, whats the typical shift point rpm #? I'm driving one this weekend and would like to know where the engine likes to be shifted.
Autos are for cars, the world would stop if semis had autos., the only auto semi we had in our trucking fleet was always in the shop for the transmission. The owner of our company put up with that truck for 2 yrs. before he sold it out, he thought it would of been good for new drivers. Even in hot shotting I don't think you could afford to have a truck down every 80-100k. Their OK for racing and goofing around with, but if it's to make $$, I'd go manual hands down.
Holy #$@# first gear is just dumb (probably good when LOADed up though). After that the ratios make more sense. Very glad to see 6th is overdrive. I'm guessing unloaded most people just start out in second gear?
Also, whats the typical shift point rpm #? I'm driving one this weekend and would like to know where the engine likes to be shifted.
Also, whats the typical shift point rpm #? I'm driving one this weekend and would like to know where the engine likes to be shifted.

Holy #$@# first gear is just dumb (probably good when LOADed up though). After that the ratios make more sense. Very glad to see 6th is overdrive. I'm guessing unloaded most people just start out in second gear?
Also, whats the typical shift point rpm #? I'm driving one this weekend and would like to know where the engine likes to be shifted.
Also, whats the typical shift point rpm #? I'm driving one this weekend and would like to know where the engine likes to be shifted.
With my mods I tend to shift at around 2k rpms most of the time. Towing about 2500 rpms.
MikeyB
I have an 04.5 2 wheel drive quad cab auto "and"
a 4 wheel drive quad cab dually 6 speed. I have towed the same 9000 lb trailer with both. the auto got around 11mpg and the stick got 14.5. oh, there was one minor difference. the stick truck also had a 2000lb cab over camper on it at the time. LOL. the auto truck gets around 20mpg running empty at 65mph. the stick gets about 18.5 at the same speed. I also have a much heavier 15000 lb trailer which drops the sticks mileage down to about 13 with the same camper. I wouldn't attempt pulling the 15k trailer with the auto truck. all numbers are hand calculated. the auto is more fun to drive empty. if you are mostly towing with the truck, get the stick , if you are just towing a little, get the auto.
a 4 wheel drive quad cab dually 6 speed. I have towed the same 9000 lb trailer with both. the auto got around 11mpg and the stick got 14.5. oh, there was one minor difference. the stick truck also had a 2000lb cab over camper on it at the time. LOL. the auto truck gets around 20mpg running empty at 65mph. the stick gets about 18.5 at the same speed. I also have a much heavier 15000 lb trailer which drops the sticks mileage down to about 13 with the same camper. I wouldn't attempt pulling the 15k trailer with the auto truck. all numbers are hand calculated. the auto is more fun to drive empty. if you are mostly towing with the truck, get the stick , if you are just towing a little, get the auto.
Nope, 4.10's were, and I believe still are, available special order on a build. You just have to know how to do it and thats a closely held secret. 
As far as the manual vs auto, go drive both and see what you think. If all you are towing is 10k or less and you want a DD, the manual sucks in traffic. You CANNOT beat on the 6 speeds manuals, speed shift them, get lazy with the clutch and accelerator, or you will be spending $$ to fix them. No where near as forgiving as an auto.

As far as the manual vs auto, go drive both and see what you think. If all you are towing is 10k or less and you want a DD, the manual sucks in traffic. You CANNOT beat on the 6 speeds manuals, speed shift them, get lazy with the clutch and accelerator, or you will be spending $$ to fix them. No where near as forgiving as an auto.



