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48RE vs 6spd manual

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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 08:56 PM
  #46  
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Nobody has mentioned some of the other points like the ability to 'creep' in 4WD with a manual - with auto it either stalls the torque converter or shoots out like a shot off a shovel. Can't push/roll start an automatic when the battery is low... How about compression braking? And auto is about $1000 more than manual... At one time the list was much longer but some of the autos have gotten better. And did I mention the fun of downshifting to annoy the BMW behind you? You get the idea!
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 09:07 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by harwill
Nobody has mentioned some of the other points like the ability to 'creep' in 4WD with a manual - with auto it either stalls the torque converter or shoots out like a shot off a shovel. Can't push/roll start an automatic when the battery is low... How about compression braking? And auto is about $1000 more than manual... At one time the list was much longer but some of the autos have gotten better. And did I mention the fun of downshifting to annoy the BMW behind you? You get the idea!
Yeah,,, I like my bolt action!!!!!!!!
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 09:49 PM
  #48  
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I had an 04.5 with a 6 speed and now an 06 with an auto. I miss the 6 speed every day. To be honest I dont realy need a 6 speed but I just enjoy shifting. I have a large toy hauler but I dont have the money this year to pull it frequently so I truly dont even need the truck period at this point. I have the camper for sale so if it sells teh truck will become nothing more than a daily driver till money comes back and I can aford to get anouther camper. Even with the idea of nothing to pull I want my 6 speed back. I have seriously considered trying to find someone wanting to do a tranie swap. When I do pull its like someone doubled the weight of the camper. This auto just dont put the power to the ground and the shift logic is retarded to say the least.
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 09:53 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by RiverRat2
well I guess I could be wrong cause that's about what rpm my truck turns @ 70,,, I guess the auto of my buds truck is geared higher!!!!!! cause @ 2K he's running 73 MPH and our tires are the same size????

What size tires are you running????
Thats because the auto has an OD ratio of .69 as opposed to the G56 with .78 I believe.

Originally Posted by rudy
I have an 05 with the g56 and was told it has the 3.73 ratio in it. Is the correct or what. I think it does because after reading the posts, at 70 mph i am running 2200 rpms. So my question is what size of tire do i need to make it a "pulling monster"? Also I use my truck in the woods and need to be able to throw tire chains when I need too.
Yes, you have 3.73's. It will run about 2400 rpm's at 75 mph with stock tires. First thing I looked at when I test drove one. Too many rpm's for good economy at 75-80 mph.

A 33" tire will give you a little better economy and not hurt the towing, plus, I think you can still get chains reasonable for that size tire. A lot of people go the 35's for the better economy but then you loose what would be considered the better towing.

The 3.73's were a standard gear for the auto and manual becuase of the versatility. They gave decent mileager with an auto and still allowed towing at a decent GCVW. The 4.10's were harder to get because they were not as friendly but they were there in a few ordered by dealers for heavy towers, or, if you knew how to navigate the maze you could order a truck built with the 4.10's. It was special order and the delaer had to know how to do that.
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 10:01 PM
  #50  
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From: McDonough GA
Originally Posted by harwill
Nobody has mentioned some of the other points like the ability to 'creep' in 4WD with a manual - with auto it either stalls the torque converter or shoots out like a shot off a shovel. Can't push/roll start an automatic when the battery is low... How about compression braking? And auto is about $1000 more than manual... At one time the list was much longer but some of the autos have gotten better. And did I mention the fun of downshifting to annoy the BMW behind you? You get the idea!
On the other side of the coin, you push over 500 hp playing and the manual is a boat anchor.

Forget speed shifting, tear them up in a heart beat.

Lest we forget, DMF!!! One big problem waiting to happen and when the blow up, LOTS of things get broke.

Head to head, its about a wash. Invest about $1500 in either one and they are good to 500 hp or a little better. Beyond that, its gets expensive for the auto and there is no solution for the manual. You picks your poison and likes it.
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 10:17 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no
Thats because the auto has an OD ratio of .69 as opposed to the G56 with .78 I believe.



Yes, you have 3.73's. It will run about 2400 rpm's at 75 mph with stock tires. First thing I looked at when I test drove one. Too many rpm's for good economy at 75-80 mph.

A 33" tire will give you a little better economy and not hurt the towing, plus, I think you can still get chains reasonable for that size tire. A lot of people go the 35's for the better economy but then you loose what would be considered the better towing.

The 3.73's were a standard gear for the auto and manual becuase of the versatility. They gave decent mileager with an auto and still allowed towing at a decent GCVW. The 4.10's were harder to get because they were not as friendly but they were there in a few ordered by dealers for heavy towers, or, if you knew how to navigate the maze you could order a truck built with the 4.10's. It was special order and the delaer had to know how to do that.
Well that makes sense but my tires are new and it works really good pulling the Toy hauler, racing season is 1/2 way over so as long as I leave alittle early and stay towing between 60-65 I'm good,,,, I aint changin nuttin till winter then Nitto Terras or Dura's w/33-34"+ diameter will be next!!!!
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 02:50 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no
On the other side of the coin, you push over 500 hp playing and the manual is a boat anchor.

Forget speed shifting, tear them up in a heart beat.

Lest we forget, DMF!!! One big problem waiting to happen and when the blow up, LOTS of things get broke.

Head to head, its about a wash. Invest about $1500 in either one and they are good to 500 hp or a little better. Beyond that, its gets expensive for the auto and there is no solution for the manual. You picks your poison and likes it.


I agree with this post!

It's hard to go play at the track ( or street for those that do) with a manual. A built auto is the best of all worlds, imo,,,,,,,,after you pay for it. Better for stop and go traffic, racing, towing, whatever.

..
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 06:42 AM
  #53  
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I love my six shooter. Back when I bought my truck the 48re wasn't even available yet. Only the 47re with the SO engine, and the one I test drove turned me off on the auto. The HO/6spd felt much more responsive.

Back to the 6spd, going for the '03-04 you'll be getting the NV5600 with the HO, proven to be very stout if taken care of. If abused it can be expensive. And the single disk clutch setup is reasonably priced, even going with aftermarket upgrades.

Word to the wise, add an extra qt of lube to keep the upper bearings lubed and cooled. Hotshot runners have proven doing this will bring long life to the tranny.

MikeyB
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 01:10 PM
  #54  
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When I bought my O6 my first choice was to get a 6 speed manual. But after I test drove one, the low gearing and clumsy shift pattern turned me off big time. I suppose I could have learned to get by with the shifting, but the low final drive ratio and resulting lower fuel mileage was not going to go away. The 48re auto works great for me and is a real blessing when you get stuck in heavy traffic.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 01:35 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by harwill
Nobody has mentioned some of the other points like the ability to 'creep' in 4WD with a manual - with auto it either stalls the torque converter or shoots out like a shot off a shovel.
HUH?!? WT heck are you talking about? I can creep along with an auto WAY better than a manual. If the rpms drop too much with the manual the computer revs up and next thing you know you are bouncing along thru the feild or the engine stalls.

I was fighting with this last weekend when trying to manouver my trailer offroad for some random camping. Couldn't crawl slowly down the trail without lugging the engine and having the computer ramp up the rpms. With the old truck being an auto I just feathered the gas pedal or brake. What do you mean "stall" a torque converter? Thats what it is supposed to do....
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 11:07 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by cLAYH
HUH?!? WT heck are you talking about? I can creep along with an auto WAY better than a manual. If the rpms drop too much with the manual the computer revs up and next thing you know you are bouncing along thru the feild or the engine stalls.
I was fighting with this last weekend when trying to manouver my trailer offroad for some random camping. Couldn't crawl slowly down the trail without lugging the engine and having the computer ramp up the rpms. With the old truck being an auto I just feathered the gas pedal or brake. What do you mean "stall" a torque converter? Thats what it is supposed to do....
Never had that problem,,,,, what are you talking about ??????

I load hay in the hayfield all the time during the summer,,,at an extremely slow creep again,,,

Never had that problem
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 06:23 AM
  #57  
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I had to look all over to find my 6 speed when I was buying my truck. The shift points are really close and you do more shifting than other vehicles I have with a 6 speed, (custom Harley) but it is made for towing tens of thousands of pounds, so I suspect that it is meant to keep the engine in the power band.
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 09:03 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by rootercycles
I had to look all over to find my 6 speed when I was buying my truck. The shift points are really close and you do more shifting than other vehicles I have with a 6 speed, (custom Harley) but it is made for towing tens of thousands of pounds, so I suspect that it is meant to keep the engine in the power band.

Rooster,,

Yep on the towing/powerband,,,,,

How tall are those nittos???? what is your engine RPM @ 70 MPH????
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 09:57 AM
  #59  
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the tires are 35's and the engine rpm seems a little better.
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 10:20 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by rootercycles
the tires are 35's and the engine rpm seems a little better.
next time you are out take note of the speed @ 2K for me will ya????
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