Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed how nice the brake system is setup on the 3rd gen trucks? Our trucks have both discs and drums in the back. The drums work independently of the hydraulic system....so essentially we have a true emergency brake. Not to mention the brake shoes on the drums should practically last forever. The pads are a lot easier to change than shoes IMHO. Also, the rotors come off without having to repack the wheel bearings.

 

I have had to panic stop a few times and these new HD truck brakes are AWESOME!!! ;D

I can stop this new 1 ton MUCH better than the '96 1/2 ton I traded in. One of the best improvements about these trucks.

 

How do you bleed the anti lock unit without the scan tool?

I was just thumbing through the shop manual and looked at brakes. States you need the DRB tool to actuate the abs unit to bleed it.

Basially you bleed the system as normal then bleed the abs and bleed system again. I REALLY don't want to go to the dealer to have the brakes bled when that time comes.

 

[quote author=Chillimau link=board=20;threadid=21374;start=0#msg200858 date=1067008893]
How do you bleed the anti lock unit without the scan tool?

I was just thumbing through the shop manual and looked at brakes. States you need the DRB tool to actuate the abs unit to bleed it.

Basially you bleed the system as normal then bleed the abs and bleed system again. I REALLY don't want to go to the dealer to have the brakes bled when that time comes.
[/quote]

From what i've heard, it's pretty difficult to get air trapped in the ABS module unless you have changed it or removed the lines from it. I sure hope we don't have to go to the dealer to have the brakes bled.

If you are daring, maybe you can just drive down a deserted slick road and jam on the brakes to envoke the ABS. Open the bleeder and repeat a few times.

 

[quote author=RamDan03 link=board=20;threadid=21374;start=0#msg200494 date=1066946864]
Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed how nice the brake system is setup on the 3rd gen trucks? Our trucks have both discs and drums in the back. The drums work independently of the hydraulic system....so essentially we have a true emergency brake. Not to mention the brake shoes on the drums should practically last forever. The pads are a lot easier to change than shoes IMHO. Also, the rotors come off without having to repack the wheel bearings.
[/quote]

Really hate to say this but:
Yes the brakes are very good on this truck ( I never owned a 2002 or older Dodge so dunno about them.)
DOT regs require vehicles to have a mechanical means of parking or emergency brake. If your truck had drums on the rear then the cables actuate a lever which pushes the shoes against the drum. So nothing really new here. This system is called hat in rotor. The rear rotor looks like a hat. These rotors may be a to get off down the road because of the ridge that develops from rust beside the em brake shoes. These shoes also have a habit of de-laminating from the backing due to lack of use and no real heat in there to boil off the moisture/rust.
Repacking wheel brgs is a pain and messy but sealed brgs are usually expensive to replace. Yes pads are easier to replace than shoes for non technician people. Just make sure you inspect all caliper seals and rebuild as necessary. Keep the slide pins free so the pads wear evenly.
I personally believe that the rear caliper em brake system without the shoes in the rotor is a better system. Crown vics were notorious for delam of the parking brake shoes. They were expensive little buggers to replace also. Had to pull the axles out to do it properly. FWIW

 

I agree that the brakes on these trucks are much better than days of old, The 3/4 ton I got rid of was pathetic compared to this truck. Has anybody priced new pads for these truck yet? Don't need them yet but just curious.
Jason

 

I dissagree about rear caliper (disc) parking brakes.

They can be harder to service. The rotating caliper pistons jamb easier than rear calipers with divorced parking brakes.

I have owned and serviced many different rear brake designs.

The current dodge 3500 design is truely modern. Just a big version of my sports cars 4 wheel abs. Having a second mechanical (non hydraulic) parking brake systen is a boon.
Since if any part of the rear primary brakes fail the parking (e-brake) does not rely on any of these parts. Seperate friction surfaces and it is protected and enclosed by the little drum inside the rear brake disk. Also since the shoes are only used when the parking brake is used worn main brake pads don't effect parking brake operation.

The scan tool just cycles the ABS solinoids. Air usually does'nt get into the ABS system that readilly. When it does the only way to really get it out is with the scan tool.

I almost forgot. If you want even better braking get some SS braided lines to replace the stock rubber lines. :P


As for making rotor removal easy....

When you do a brake job put a touch of anti sieze where the hub goes thru the rotor. Also you can adjust the parking brake externally. Which means you can back the shoes off so they will clear the "rust ridge".

I recomend bleeding, disassembly, cleaning and lubrication annually regardless of the brakes condition.

If the caliper pins are clean and lubed the caliper will move freely for even pad wear. If you clean the caliper the seal lasts longer and dirt can't kill the piston. Clean and lube the parking brake cable. I also resurface the inside of the parking brake by hand via a scotchbrite pad.

There really is next to no wear of the parking brake if you are using it right. So it is'nt like rear drum only brakes where the shoe wears down into the drum and has a death grip on the rotor unless you back the adjuster way off.



I usually don't go thru too many brakes around here.
Even out east in the mts where I used to live I wore out brakes alot slower than everybody else. Yes... engine braking with a manual when everybody else is riding the brakes down the backside of the entire mountain.

On the diesel I will need an exhaust brake.

 

Yeah they stop well...good design? NO.
The rear sliders have rubber boots that are very prone to damage from rocks/gravel. Once they're ripped in the slightest, they rust, seize and wear out brakes in a matter of 1000kms or less. I've done rears on my truck 3 times in a year. I check my slider boots regularily. I replace calipers that don't push in smoothly.
If you're in mud, or drive on lots of gravel, this design is garbabe.
As much as I hate working on drum brakes, I'd be happy to have them on my truck.

You can get caliper guards that help a little, but they trap mud in the caliper, which essentially has the same effect.