30K trans service question and others
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From: Cleveland, OH
It would seem that the filter change would be important though no? I don't know if I'm comfortable just flushing and leaving the old filter in there .
Vitt, what are you paying for these flushes and what do you think about the filter?
Vitt, what are you paying for these flushes and what do you think about the filter?
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From: Mississippi
Another suggestion is to buy the fluid and take it to one of those quick change places. If you furnish the fluid they will usually hook their machine up for the flush at a very discounted price.
Change the filter at home, clean the pan. Add the few quarts of old fluid back to the tranny then drive it to the quick change with enough fluid to completely flush the system; complete job probably cheaper than letting the dealer work on your truck. I hate letting people touch my truck when I am not watching, so I'll do as much maintenance as possible.
Change the filter at home, clean the pan. Add the few quarts of old fluid back to the tranny then drive it to the quick change with enough fluid to completely flush the system; complete job probably cheaper than letting the dealer work on your truck. I hate letting people touch my truck when I am not watching, so I'll do as much maintenance as possible.
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From: Ila georgia
Tranny FLUSH is the only way to fly.Most service manuals will state the auto trans filters are good to 90k.If no leaks at pan the dealer I worked at we flushed at 30/60 and at 90 did flush and filter.Heavy towing or not.99% of the time never saw any thing unusal in trans pan.I'M amazed at a dealer that does not have a flush machine.Some days we did upwards to 30 flushes a day.It was also the ONLY time customers commented that the shift QUALITY was improved to like new.Never heard this on the old filter replace and add a few qts of new fliud.
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From: Cleveland, OH
Good info hounddog. I still worry about all the break in particles and metals in the filter. Also folks that have drained the pain and changed the filter reported a layer of dirt and metal goo on the magnets. Part of me wants to have that stuff out of there. The thought of paying $194 for a filter change and full flush seems pretty steep but it sure would be nice and clean!
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From: Ila georgia
The amount of stuff on the magnet and in the filter is normal.Thats why there is a filter.No harm just more exspence in doing both both never really saw were it was needed.The NEW type pan gaskets do seal better but the old styles and some makes with the pan on almost sideways leaks were a huge COMBACK problem.As the flush machines appeared that stopped.Some autos/trucks have a NON SERVICEABLE FILTER.Major removal and high dollar.Usually only serviced in a overhaul ,made of metal.Transmissions like the AW4 used in the older Cherokees on mail routes its like that.The fliud in THEM would be BLACK as coal oil and pulling the pan did NOTHING for them.A flush sure does.I install the A word(amsoil)at 30k until 90 and do the filter also.Now if TOWING heavy all the time if the condition of the fliud looks poor I may cut that short.But with ATF+4 every 30k is fine.Prices vary from place to place.Its a EASY job for a tech.Lots EASIER then pulling the pan etc.Ifg one place wants $119.95 and another wants $189.95 the latter is raping BIG profit.Five deales around us vaired from $119.95 to 189.95 and some in the middle.We did them for the 119.95 price and was like 69% gross profit.The CHECK ban adjust goes back the the dinosaur era.No one REALLY checks per se and good trans techs will tell you the ONLY time its out is because something toasted already and it wasnt the ban.
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From: Cleveland, OH
The more I think about it, the more I want to get a PML trans pan and drain/change the filter/fluid myself. I know this doesn't get ALL the fluid out like a flush does, however it seems that's the service that most folks do. My question is that if I use the Amsoil ATF I have sitting here, will it be compatible with what's left in the trans?
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From: Cleveland, OH
As far as changing the transfer case fluid - how do you know what the proper fluid level is? Where does it drain from? I haven't really looked closely at it yet, so it may be self explanatory.
Also - the drain and filter change vs the flush - It sounds like the flush is the only way to get ALL of the fluid out, but do people feel the drain/filter is adequate? I could do that myself and save the $160.
Also - the drain and filter change vs the flush - It sounds like the flush is the only way to get ALL of the fluid out, but do people feel the drain/filter is adequate? I could do that myself and save the $160.
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I used advice from Tim Holt on this. I stay away from flushes. I went through three trannys on a Ford PSD because of flushes. It was backflushing shavings into the coolers and reducing flow and pressure which ate up the trannys. Also the filter is not changed which also reduces flow and pressure since it is clogged with metal and clutch material that doesn't come out on a flush. A Mag-Hytec was added at 30K so I could drain the fluid first then drop the pan. ATF+4 is part synthetic and has additives that are required by DC. Fluid is about $15 a gallon and filter is about $10. The stock pan gaskets on the 48RE are reusable and seal great with no need to buy a new one everytime. Do not use silicone or any type of sealant, you do not want that stuff getting inside the tranny. No need to adjust the band from what I understand. If you are worried about your warranty I would not use Amsoil unless it has been specifically approved by DC( I do not know if that has been done). If the trans fails and they do a fluid analysis they can use that against the warranty claim, uless it is an approved fluid. Be sure to keep reciepts for the ATF+4 fluid if you do it yourself.
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From: Cleveland, OH
Guys I decided to do it myself. Thanks for all the replies. I got 2 gals of mopar atf +4 and the filter. Filter was 14, fluid 15. The truck will eventually have dtt or ats, so I don't think I need to drop $200 each time for flush and filter change to baby the stocker.
I'm not gonna mess with the bands for 2 reasons- 1. Most ppl that know about transmissions seem to say don't touch, and 2. I don't have an inch lb torque wrench. Maybe next time around.
The fluid on the dipstick looks clearish red, very new looking. How essential is draining via methods above and beyond dropping the pan? I"ve heard some say to loosen some TC bolts and more drains, some say pull the cooler hose and start the engine for a while. Is any of that worth it?
I'm not gonna mess with the bands for 2 reasons- 1. Most ppl that know about transmissions seem to say don't touch, and 2. I don't have an inch lb torque wrench. Maybe next time around.
The fluid on the dipstick looks clearish red, very new looking. How essential is draining via methods above and beyond dropping the pan? I"ve heard some say to loosen some TC bolts and more drains, some say pull the cooler hose and start the engine for a while. Is any of that worth it?
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If there is a drainplug on the TC then you should drain it but I have never looked for it, since I now change it every 25K. Personally I would not try to start it and try to drain fluid with no pan on it. Sounds like a big mess and possibly a good way to burn it up.