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2wd balljoints?

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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 04:28 PM
  #1  
bowedup2003's Avatar
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2wd balljoints?

Quick question guys, are the lower ball joints on the 2wd 3500's pressed or riveted in? I have 1 going out, the one I bought from oriellys is a press-in but the local frontend shop says they are riveted in

I plan on tackling this Saturday and I want go make sure I have the right parts.

Thanks,

Bowedup
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 05:08 PM
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MikeyB's Avatar
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From: Tomball, Texas
Should be pressed in.

MikeyB
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 08:04 PM
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My 06 is riveted
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 08:40 PM
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Ok, so the 2003's are pressed in and the 2006's are riveted in...

Any idea when they made the changeover? My 2004.5 falls right in the middle!

Thanks,

Bowedup
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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Anybody know where the break is between pressed and riveted balljoints?

Thanks,

Bowedup
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 06:44 AM
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Ok, in case anyone else gets to do there's, my 2004.5 had pressed-in balljoints and the loaner tools from oriellys will not work w/o some grinding and modifying to the press cups.

Bowedup
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 05:47 PM
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Thanks for the follow up.
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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 05:57 PM
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I just replaced the lowers on my '05 2wd 2500 today. They're pressed in and boy are they tight. The loaner tool kit from Advance Auto Parts worked great but a longer breaker bar or cheater would have made it a lot easier. I "think" they're all pressed into a thick plate that's riveted to the lower control arm. Some replacements are already pressed into the plate and you replace the plate along with the joint. Moogs are press in so no grinding the rivets out. With 118k miles on 'em, mine had a good 1/4" vertical play in them and the original grease is all dried out. Looks like the upper control arms will be easy in comparison... Joints aren't bad but the boots are crumbling at only 5yrs.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 07:36 PM
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From: big spring tx.
Originally Posted by Hannibal
I just replaced the lowers on my '05 2wd 2500 today. They're pressed in and boy are they tight. The loaner tool kit from Advance Auto Parts worked great but a longer breaker bar or cheater would have made it a lot easier. I "think" they're all pressed into a thick plate that's riveted to the lower control arm. Some replacements are already pressed into the plate and you replace the plate along with the joint. Moogs are press in so no grinding the rivets out. With 118k miles on 'em, mine had a good 1/4" vertical play in them and the original grease is all dried out. Looks like the upper control arms will be easy in comparison... Joints aren't bad but the boots are crumbling at only 5yrs.
What brand of ball joints did you go with, greasable?
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 06:33 AM
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From: west central Florida
I went with Moog. They're greasable. In the pic is the tool and the spindle tied back with the caliper tied back the other way. Now that it's done it wasn't all that bad but in the process I had my doubts. Next time I will without doubt have a longer breaker bar. Here's the part numbers on Moog's page...
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com....asp?cat=12638
Attached Thumbnails 2wd balljoints?-lwrbjinstall.jpg  
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