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2007 Ram 2500 Front and Rear Pinion Seal replacement

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Old 01-23-2018, 04:41 PM   #1  
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2007 Ram 2500 Front and Rear Pinion Seal replacement

Hello all. I own a 2007 Dodge Ram Megacab (2500 chassis). 212k miles.
Im a decent wrencher but not an expert on differentials. Both of my pinion seals are leaking and need replaced.
Is it as simple as pulling the nut, yoke seal, then replacing seal, yoke, new nut, and some kind of torquing sequence ?
Does anyone have a foolproof method they can share ?

Thank you,
Ryan
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Old 01-23-2018, 06:46 PM   #2  
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From an 04 manual, but the same rear end...
(1) Remove axle shafts.
(2) Mark the propeller shaft and pinion flange for
installation reference.
(3) Remove propeller shaft.
(4) Rotate pinion gear three or four times.
(5) Measure and record the amount of torque necessary
to rotate the pinion gear with an inch pound
torque wrench.
(6) Hold pinion flange with Flange Wrench 8979
and remove pinion flange nut.
7) Remove pinion flange with Pinion Flange
Puller 8992
(8) Remove pinion shaft seal with a pry tool or
slide hammer mounted screw.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new pinion seal with Installer 8896
.
(2) Apply a light coat of teflon sealant to the pinion
flange splines.
(3) Lightly tap the pinion flange onto the pinion
until a few threads are showing.
(4) Install flange washer and new pinion nut.
(5) Hold pinion flange with Flange Wrench 8979
and tighten pinion nut until pinion end play
is taken up
(6) Rotate pinion several times to seat bearings.
(7) Measure pinion rotating torque with an inch
pound torque wrench and compare it to recorded
measurement. Tighten pinion nut in small increments,
until pinion rotating torque is 0.40-0.57 Nm
(3-5 in. lbs.) greater than recorded measurement.
(8) Rotate pinion several times then verify pinion
rotating torque again.
(9) Install axle shafts.
(10) Install propeller shaft with reference marks
aligned.
(11) Check differential fluid level.


If you think you want to do it, PM me and I'll send you the specs for the front end too. It might take me a few days to get back to you, tho.
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Old 01-23-2018, 06:55 PM   #3  
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Thanks for this.

I assume I could do this without removing the axles right ?
Could I also just check the play with a dial mic and make sure its the same when Im done ?
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Old 01-23-2018, 08:47 PM   #4  
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I am not sure how a dial micrometer will help you in this scenario. I would follow the above procedure precisely and if you don't have the tools borrow them or like the yoke flange tool can be built in your shop or garage.

You do not need to remove the axles for this. It does seem odd that they are both leaking at the same time. I would take a look at your vent tube on each axle while your in their.
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Old 01-23-2018, 09:30 PM   #5  
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Torque

I figured if I used a magnetic mounted mic I could just put the end play back to where it was. With proper torque it should be right, right ?

Maybe I just dont know what Im trying to say.

I think If I understand the directions I put the yoke, old washer, and new nut on, then tighten up bu hand until I have no play in the yoke. After that I use an inch lb torque wrench to .40-.57 range. After that Im done. At least thats the way I read it.
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Old 01-23-2018, 11:33 PM   #6  
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The backlash has vertualy nothing do do with it as you are not changing anything internally in the differential. How would the backlash change without changing the shim pack on the ring or pinion after tightening the nut back to spec?

With that, the objective here is to be applying a slightly higher torque on the nut than it had previously. This is the most importantant part of the equation. Just follow the book on it as listed above and you will do fine.
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