2003 Ram 3500 intermittent shut downs
2003 Ram 3500 intermittent shut downs
I have 2003 Ram 3500 diesel it has a quadzilla xzillarader box on it.I usually run on setting #2. other than that its pretty much stock.I was towing my camper less than 1 mile from my house it acted like someone turned the key off. I turned the key off and back on a bit of cranking later it started. Last night my wife took the truck to work 120 mile round trip on her way home it started to stumble (not wanting 2 take the fuel) then ran for another 1/4mile then shut down. She retried the truck several times before it started again and was able to get it home. The only other thing I have noticed it has become harder to start lately. I had the fuel presures checked by our local dealer which is very good with these trucks and everything came back good.I have also replaced the ignition switch as I thought I had found the problem.Yes it still has the canister style lift pump.Any Ideas would be great. Thanks
Forgot to say it shows no codes ever . And has only done this 2 times in a year.
Forgot to say it shows no codes ever . And has only done this 2 times in a year.
Do you have any codes? Mine started acting up last Feb - sudden loss of power, irratic throttle and it would go to idle but not die. I'd clear the code but one or two kept coming back - something about low voltage from the throttle or something that led me to think it was the APPS - throttle potentiometer. I got one from TST products for $169. I figured I could gamble with $169 before taking it to Dodge and that fixed it. It came with great instructions. Mine went bad at 60k miles. Craig
Mine too ^^^^. It's the #1 place to look unless you have dealt with it already.
I have 220km on my truck, and when I got the parts to replace it, I found out it had already been done at least once before, as evidenced by the non-factory hardware. IOW: they suck.
I had stale codes which led me to believe the iat or map sensor was bad; beware the stale code!
When (if) you change the pump, try to park uphill. I was slightly downhill- when you detach the fuel line on the frame rail it can siphon and keep on going.....You can bend it up but it cn get messy while you look for something to keep it up there with!
It's an easy job, 2 allen screws and a couple of hose clamps. It's a bit of a ***** getting back there though!
Chay
I have 220km on my truck, and when I got the parts to replace it, I found out it had already been done at least once before, as evidenced by the non-factory hardware. IOW: they suck.
I had stale codes which led me to believe the iat or map sensor was bad; beware the stale code!
When (if) you change the pump, try to park uphill. I was slightly downhill- when you detach the fuel line on the frame rail it can siphon and keep on going.....You can bend it up but it cn get messy while you look for something to keep it up there with!
It's an easy job, 2 allen screws and a couple of hose clamps. It's a bit of a ***** getting back there though!
Chay
I`m kinda feeling the same way; fuel pump , but I just had a presure test done on it and the system checked. Everything came back ok. Also its showing no codes yet. It is hard starting since this issue started.
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I see that you did the pressure check which is a good deal, but I suspect these fail intermittently before they die completely so it may not be conclusive. I get the feeling your issue is intermittent, but getting worse?
The trouble is with a dead lift pump cp3 will pull fuel under some conditions (truck acts normal), and not under others(falls on it's face), so combine that with a failing lift pump and it's crazy to troubleshoot. I ran 400k with a completely dead lift pump and it only sputtered twice. It acted just like yours. Like someone turned the key off. Wait for a bit, and it fired up fine. I suspect this is because the fuel is gravity feeding into the fuel filter housing, then the cp3 can pull it again.
Have it in the back of your head at least. Maybe install a guage so you can see what's going on as you have your trouble.
Check to see if the lift pump is running each time at startup. You should hear a distinct hissing sound when you turn the key on, which is different than the vacuum pump. If you're not sure, bump the starter. This will turn the pump on for 25 seconds or so.
Chay
The trouble is with a dead lift pump cp3 will pull fuel under some conditions (truck acts normal), and not under others(falls on it's face), so combine that with a failing lift pump and it's crazy to troubleshoot. I ran 400k with a completely dead lift pump and it only sputtered twice. It acted just like yours. Like someone turned the key off. Wait for a bit, and it fired up fine. I suspect this is because the fuel is gravity feeding into the fuel filter housing, then the cp3 can pull it again.
Have it in the back of your head at least. Maybe install a guage so you can see what's going on as you have your trouble.
Check to see if the lift pump is running each time at startup. You should hear a distinct hissing sound when you turn the key on, which is different than the vacuum pump. If you're not sure, bump the starter. This will turn the pump on for 25 seconds or so.
Chay
Just an up date, Had it to the dealer Friday checked for codes and did an aray of tests and came back nothing shown. The dealer recomended an up grade to an in the tank style pump. They did all the work for a reasonable amount. They sell and service many of these trucks and feel that the pump is also the most likely the cause.They have done many of these and people seem very satisfied even with some power adders.I will keeep you posted hopeing it doesn`t happen again. Thanks for everyone for all the advice.
same thing hear pump tested ok but it was working when tested it would stop and truck acted up new pump no problem
Well guys keep guessing. The fuel pump was not the issue . It did it again today . It seems to be under light load after a small incline.Quad box turned off but still hooked up but now totally unhooked. Any ideas would be great. Thanks
I have replaced the fuel/transfer pump and still having the shut down problems. I have unhooked the quad zilla box. The problem seems to be getting worse/more frequent so i guess soon it will just quit and then i will find the problem. Any ideas would be great.
From what I read when I had my problems there are a few likely culprits:
1) Lots of guys report the wires on the passenger side of the AC compressor wears through. This harness contains the same 5 volt power that goes to the map sensor and the iat sensor and can cause defueling. I checked mine and it was on the way to going bad...I found 1 wire was worn through.
2) MAP sensor. This is not just a MAP, it's also a temperature sensing device. It's located on the head by the air horn (Just behind it actually).
3) IAT sensor. It's not just an intake air temp sensor, it also senses pressure.
4) Boost control system failure; either the solenoid valve or the wastegate actuator arm is stuck. The idea here is if the wastegate is stuck closed, when you throttle up the turbo makes too much pressure and you go into 'overboost' and the ecm defuels to protect the engine. When you pull the pasenger wheel well for #1, you can check the actuator rod. Mine was easy to move with a set of vice grips (It's kinda tight up there).
5) APPS (Throttle sensor) can also cause these issues. I think they develop a dead spot, or short out the 5v which will kill it for sure.
I think most of these would leave a code. Check for them by using the key on-key off method if you have no other means.
None of these are my ideas, but seem to make sense.
I wish it were easier!
Chay
1) Lots of guys report the wires on the passenger side of the AC compressor wears through. This harness contains the same 5 volt power that goes to the map sensor and the iat sensor and can cause defueling. I checked mine and it was on the way to going bad...I found 1 wire was worn through.
2) MAP sensor. This is not just a MAP, it's also a temperature sensing device. It's located on the head by the air horn (Just behind it actually).
3) IAT sensor. It's not just an intake air temp sensor, it also senses pressure.
4) Boost control system failure; either the solenoid valve or the wastegate actuator arm is stuck. The idea here is if the wastegate is stuck closed, when you throttle up the turbo makes too much pressure and you go into 'overboost' and the ecm defuels to protect the engine. When you pull the pasenger wheel well for #1, you can check the actuator rod. Mine was easy to move with a set of vice grips (It's kinda tight up there).
5) APPS (Throttle sensor) can also cause these issues. I think they develop a dead spot, or short out the 5v which will kill it for sure.
I think most of these would leave a code. Check for them by using the key on-key off method if you have no other means.
None of these are my ideas, but seem to make sense.
I wish it were easier!
Chay
Well drove over 200 miles last night and no shut down. I did pull a few conectors and put them back togather (with dieletric greese). I didnt have a chance to do much else , hopefully this weekend. Now I have a rear u-joint going , if its not one thing it`s another. I hope my luck keeps going it`s no fun driving a truck you never know if your going to make it home in. Thanks guys.



