Not so much for the injectors but also for the injection pump. Does have pistons in there.

MikeyB

 

I've heard that oil in fuel will help a sticky FCA, I know it helps my truck. But nothing like B20.

 

I have been using 2 cycle oil ever sence the ULSD came on the market. I know that lubrication is supposed to be added back after the sulfer is removed, but all it takes is one tank full with no lubricant and it can wear the injection pump and the electricaly fired injectors.

I know that very clean fuel is needed to prevent wear but I also think that lack of lubrication is a leading cause of 3rd gen injectors failing, causing hard or no starts and/or fuel in the crankcase.

 

For what its worth my truck has never had any additive put in the fuel in 90k miles and not a single injector or fuel issue. I like to think of all the money that has been saved by not adding something every fillup. Just my .02.

 

Whats going to happen when your truck gets to 150k miles or even before?

I have 97k and no issues but I want the injectors to last at least 200k as I plan to keep this truck until it falls apart, probably my last truck. The cost is small as I add 2/3 ounce per gallon of fuel. The 2 cycle oil at Wal-Mart's curent price is $11 per gallon (it was $8) and figures out to $0.086 per gallon of fuel. In 100k miles I will use about 5200 gallons at 19mpg at a cost of approx. $13,000 at current prices. Cost of the oil will be about $450.

Cost of replacing or rebuilding injectors and/or CP3= lots lots more.

I am currently adding additional 2 micron filtration. I have just got the parts and will install as soon as I can get the free time.

 

You nailed it exactly, filtration and extra lube will extend the life well over 200k. There are some hotshotters with over 400k on the original injectors and their biggets problem is the solenoids are starting to fail.

They run ALL their fuel thru aux tanks and filter into the main, plus additives and lubes frequently. It does make a difference!

The only failure you cannot protect against is simply wear on the solenoids due to the multiple events.

 

The way my truck has been going latley itll fall apart before 150k anyway (front end, electrical, radio, bed side rust, steering, ujoints, oil leak, many interior issues). When I bought the truck I planned on keeping it forever till it fell apart and followed the maintence to a tee and still do(except the oil in the fuel). Now I am really becoming frustrated with all the repairs on a 3 year old truck and dont really plan on keeping it much past 150k anyway. Maybe ill give her a try, i would blow a gasket if I had to put more money in that truck right now.

 

PIKEMAN........Sorry to hear your having so many issues. I'm at 145k, daily driver and tow vehicle, and still going strong. Looks like new. Using Super Tech ashless 2-cycle / PS going back and forth between tanks. Oh, weekly washes too.

 

My truck looks like the day it came off the lot. Wash wax regularly parked inside, interior still has a hint of new car smell when its been shut up for a while. Never had a programmer or bombed. Just used to pull and get to work; isnt that what they were made for? I just scratch my head, i keep thinking well ill upgrade that and be set for a while. Must have got a lemon.

 

I always used Walmart or any cheap 2 stroke oil when possible.
One issue to BE AWARE is that oil will color your fuel, and filter. Always keep a bottle (empty or full) to show if you get pulled over and checked your fuel for tax evasion (off road instead og highway).

Walmart oil makes your filter and fuel blue color. Dyed off road diesel can be blue or red or green, depending from the refinery

 

Some people run transmission fluid instead of 2 cycle, don't expect any revenue agent to believe your story by showing him a bottle of trans fluid.

 

I ran the wally world stuff at 10oz per fillup for 10K or so miles. Didn't really notice a difference with noise/mpg either way, but I lube with Amsoil Diesel Concentrate anyhow.

What I did notice that made me stop using it was my exhaust brake would stick and not close fully unless I got the rpms below 1000. I started using the EB more to try and free it up, but it kept sticking until about 500 miles after I quit using 2-stroke, now it doesn't stick. Closes fully the first time every time.

I would never run modern ATF in a diesel truck. 2-stroke is designed to burn, ATF is designed specifically NOT to burn. That creates deposits on your injectors at low load levels.

 

Will any cheap oil due? I mean... I understand two-cycle oil is inherantly designed to burn but, will motor oil burn also and lubercate? Just a thought.

 

Supertech oil is about as cheap as you can get. I think I saw Coastal TCW3 at Vatozone for about the same price though.

 

You want it to be 2 stroke, not motor oil. Cheap 2-stroke isn't too much more than cheap oil, and blends with diesel easier, and burns better at idle.