silver_goat

Did mine recently and paid about $63 for both front and rear (7 qts X $9 qt) using Royal Purple 75/140 full syn. Truck had 32k on the clock and 15k is way overkill IMHO. I have had gas trucks that have gone 150k + and never opend the rear cover. (not that this is a good thing)

goat

bluerattler

checked with my dc service manager today and he said 15k isn't necessary unless towing heavy loads a lot- won't void the warranty either if it isn't done at 15k even though mine is on the "B" service schedule too- I'll follow his advice...

Mule

I have no idea why everyone feels the dealer is the place to go for services......
$325 would pay for a BUNCH of oil. But I do understand when people can't do things theirselves.

I do the tranny (NV5600) & transfer myself, the diffs get the change done at Grease Monkey when I have them do the oil (6k oil, 15k diffs). I take in the oil & filter, pay $15.00 for the bay fee + the disposal fee and the oil is done. The diffs cost the $15.00 bay fee + what I pay for the fluid I bring in. If I'm not working on my Jeep, I'll do the diffs too. It's a time thing for me.

Amsoil 75w90 syn is $22. a gallon (I read on the board we should not use the 75w140, correct???) Some day I'll hav an extra $900. for a 55gal drum, then I'll throw my air actuated lube pump on it and be done....

Amsoil 5w30 XL-7500 syn is $4.00 a qt for the tranny.

I paid $7.00 for a little hi volume hand pump, it takes about 10 pumps to empty a quart bottle.

I would do 15k even if the warranty said 50. $40.00 every 15k isn't worth complaining over. Besides, I know how hard that lube has to work. If you have ever seen a rear end that has little fluid changes vs one that has been well maintained, it's pretty amazing. I have had axles under my Jeep that have the stock bearrings still in them when I wheeled them. The wear was so minimal that they almost looked new. I want 500K miles out of my axles.

If the tranny is like the others I have seen, it shouldn't wear out in my life time if I keep the fluid fresh.

These aren't rice burners that have 2" ring gears (LOL), if we show them some respect, they will out last us..... Just think "Yeah, I'm drivin my Grandpa's 03 CTD to school today, that thing still freaking rocks man. Glad he BOMB'd it too" Sure they will have different slang by then, but you get my point.

Greg

Vittorio

I do a lot of things myself on the ranch. A lot of things most people wouldn't or couldn't do. Depends how you spend your time. My day is pretty full.

My trucks are serviced in town. Some dealerships are overcharging to do differential service. Plain spoken observation.

stevenknapp

I paid $7.00 for a little hi volume hand pump, it takes about 10 pumps to empty a quart bottle.

Any details on this?

bulabula

What kind of details you looking for? They're for sale at places like Pep Boys and Autozone. They have a few different kinds available.

The ones I like the best are the pumps that you can buy for filling Mercruiser outdrives. They fit right on top of many oil bottles, but you have to remove the outdrive fitting at the end of the hose and stick that end into the fill hole(s). Pump with your thumb. Cake.

stevenknapp

Oh, just one of the pumps that look like the ones used to squirt catsup from the huge bottles? I've got one of those, but didn't have great luck with it for gear lube. I'll try another brand, I thought they were just all bad.

angleiron

When I brought my truck in at 15,000 miles, all they recommended was the air filter and fuel filter to be changed. I let tyem do the air filter, I did the fuel filter, and no mention of a diff oil change ever came from the dealer!

bulabula

Diff oil changes are listed in the owners manual; betcha those guys never did look. Someone at the dealer who attended the DC maintenance course for 3rd gens should have learned about it if they weren't sleeping.

bulabula

I think we're talking the same thing here. I've got two of them, one for the boat and one for everything else. I will admit that it doesn't screw on the widemouth Amsoil bottles but it still works ok.

I've got another orange hand pump that also works ok but its tougher keeping both hoses in place while lying on your back under the truck.

cr25ovet

man makes me feel better that you paid 325 i was just in shock when i got my truck back and i have to pay 240 for front and rear axle. thats crazy.

2003Ram

Manual doesn't say the oil must be synthetic, does it?

Just says GL-5.

bulabula

Another blast from the past.

The DRM says "Mopar (Registered Trademark) synthetic gear lubricant 75W-90". I've heard that there may be a more recent TSB that lists 75W-140 as well. I haven't seen it, but am running 80W-140 in my rear diff.

There is a note above the list of lubricants that says DC recommends using Mopar lubricants or lubricants of equal quality.

roadrat

bulabula--That tsb# you are talking about is tsb 03-001-04 REV A, it was dated may 11/04, it also states the amount of fluid for each type of axle and where the fill line is on each one.

rob

1sttruck

I read somewhere that the Mopar fluid is Havoline, but whatever it is it isn't Mobil 1. I changed mine at 15k miles, and it looked like black snot. I would have changed it earlier if I had know how dark it would be. I put in Mobil 1 75W90, and when I changed it at the next 15k miles it looked like a dark olive oil. I put Mobil 1 back in since it worked so well, but tried a 75W140 in the rear. With the 75W140 there is less 'driveline rumble', which use to be noticeable when shifting into 5th at say 55 mph. I'll probably go 30k miles this next time since it looked so good at 15k miles.