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10.5" Axle Crush Sleeve

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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 10:37 PM
  #1  
moparonly's Avatar
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From: West Valley City, UT
10.5" Axle Crush Sleeve

I'm currently in the process of putting 4.56 gears in my 10.5 AAM rear axle. Everything is going pretty well except I've run into a little road block, the stupid crush sleeve. For those of you that have ventured into a 10.5 or 11.5 diff, how much torque is required to initially crush the sleeve? I'm having a hell of time getting it to go. I mocked everything up without the crush sleeve to get the right size spacer so I know nothing else is crashing or jamming up inside. I can't even get my 3/4" drive impact to budge it. Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 10:55 AM
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C Schomer's Avatar
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From: Pueblo West
This is right from my manual on disc. It doesn't list a tq. value for the nut - only rolling tq. Craig


(14) Measure pinion rotating torque with an inch
pound torque wrench (Fig. 63). Tighten pinion nut in
small increments until pinion rotating torque is:
² New Pinion Bearings: 1.7-2.8 N·m (15-25 in.
lbs.)
² Original Pinion Bearings: 1.1-2.2 N·m (10-20
in. lbs.)
(
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 03:56 PM
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I was considering a crush sleeve elimination kit on mine.
They may have them for the rear but not the front on the 4x4/Dodge version.
I think if you are using the old one, you need the torgue when you unbolt it.
read some post somewhere that the initial torque is pretty high, and it's torqued til you get the in lb above to move the assembly....
I keep hoping to run into someone who I can get a tutorial on actually doing a rebuild.
I did find a tutorial vid on line about rebuilding them tho.
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 05:13 PM
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BigIron70's Avatar
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
I use a cheater 5 ft. pipe on my 3/4" breaker bar to start the sleeve to crush. I bolt a holding fixture to the pinion flange to keep it from turning. I wouldn't recommend impact gun since that could damage the bearings. If you are doing this on the ground well good luck. Even while truck is on lift it takes all my weight and strength to tighten pinion nut and I'm 260 lbs. Once the sleeve starts to crush go easy checking turning torque frequently. If you go over max turning torque you will need to start over with a new crush sleeve and nut so go easy once all end play is eliminated. Bearing will fail in a short time if turning torque is not in spec.



Pinion Torque To Rotate is:

◦New Pinion Bearings: 1.7 - 2.8 N·m (15 - 25 in. lbs.)
◦Original Pinion Bearings: 1.1 - 2.2 N·m (10 - 20 in. lbs.)
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 09:43 PM
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moparonly's Avatar
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From: West Valley City, UT
Thanks for the replies guys. I just needed more muscle apparently. After breaking two 1/2" breaker bars I bought a 3/4" breaker bar and used a 6 foot cheater bar. That crush sleeve is ridiculous! I thought I was doing something wrong.

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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:35 PM
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BigIron70's Avatar
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
Welcome to my world, Chrysler pays me 3 hours to do overhaul on a 10.5 AA. I use the 3/4 breaker bar.Believe it or not Harbor Freight tools has a really good breaker bar with a socket lock on it. I've used it for years and hasnt broken yet. No flex in it and have gone over 500 ft lbs with it many times.
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