03 Ram 2500 4x4 report at 180,000 miles
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,449
Likes: 47
From: Calgary, Alberta
The original transmission flush machines had an internal pump which would force fluid through the transmission pretty aggressively, and would sometimes do damage. The newer machines, like I am used to using, hook up to the vehicle's cooler lines, and use the transmission's own pump to push the old fluid into the machine and replace it for new fluid, quart for quart, at the same time. I had used one of these on many vehicles, including some of my own, with never a problem. I would consider these newer machines to give you a "complete fluid replacement" rather than a "flush" and consider it an important part of maintenance from time to time.
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Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
From: Schuylkill River Valley, Pennsylvania
2011 Logistics Update
Now at 220,000 Miles
- Nothing big to report since the last.
- Replaced Alternator at 218,000 miles
- felts inside the heater box which keeps the flappers from rattling at idle have disintegrated at 219,000 miles
- Replaced Ball Joints and steering knuckle U-joints (yes the grease-able ones still wear out the same as non-greasable, only thing is they dont squeak and violently let go like non-greasable ones do...had end-cap play and vibrations)
- Needs rear driveshaft u-joints (the rear driveshaft vibration just set in again...although with grease-able u-joints the vibration comes on at 75mph rather than 55mph...something to keep in mind)
- passenger side rear taillight circuit board quit...no backup light...also no-more other tail light failures since that occurred...so thinking the constant lights burning out comes from the passenger side backup lamp..???
- well maybe something big to report...something changed with fuel quality (again)...sometimes it seems like the injectors are sluggish...othertimes not...temperature seems to impact it as well. Days above 50dF its fine...below they all seem to rap a bit. Definitely isolated to the injectors. Some cummins mechanic recommended fuel lube clears it up. Weird. Almost as if DC needs to author a re-tune the ECM / PCM flash again...
Otherwise running strong....still no oil usage between fills (except in winter when cold)...
- Nothing big to report since the last.
- Replaced Alternator at 218,000 miles
- felts inside the heater box which keeps the flappers from rattling at idle have disintegrated at 219,000 miles
- Replaced Ball Joints and steering knuckle U-joints (yes the grease-able ones still wear out the same as non-greasable, only thing is they dont squeak and violently let go like non-greasable ones do...had end-cap play and vibrations)
- Needs rear driveshaft u-joints (the rear driveshaft vibration just set in again...although with grease-able u-joints the vibration comes on at 75mph rather than 55mph...something to keep in mind)
- passenger side rear taillight circuit board quit...no backup light...also no-more other tail light failures since that occurred...so thinking the constant lights burning out comes from the passenger side backup lamp..???
- well maybe something big to report...something changed with fuel quality (again)...sometimes it seems like the injectors are sluggish...othertimes not...temperature seems to impact it as well. Days above 50dF its fine...below they all seem to rap a bit. Definitely isolated to the injectors. Some cummins mechanic recommended fuel lube clears it up. Weird. Almost as if DC needs to author a re-tune the ECM / PCM flash again...
Otherwise running strong....still no oil usage between fills (except in winter when cold)...
Well...
To build on my report below.
- Unsure what happened at 195,000 miles but I lost three injectors, they started rapping pretty badly/leaking fuel (lots of smoke on startup) and wound up replacing all 6 with cummins rebuilt. If I recall correctly they were $450 each installed with a 1-year 100,000 mile warranty.
- also adjusted the valves at 195,000 as well, didnt notice any audible difference.
- Now just rounding the 200,000 mile mark my drivers side rear quarter panel near the wheel well arch started bubbling paint. Started in the spring with a small paint blister; popped it off and touched up with some PPG acrylic enamel over Eastwood rust preventer. Those bubbles got larger and more appeared in the past 6-months. Rig is at the garage now getting wheel well patches on each side glued in place and paint. The truck has sat outside all year and has been used in these PA winters almost daily; so the body held out pretty good. It's running me $850/side for the work (paint entire side of box and take out some hail dents while he's there.) Turns out the rust is being cause by the back side. My body guy said there is sealer/glue in the seam at the high point where the inner wheel well hits the outer quarter panel; but from there down to the pinch weld at the wheel well lips there is nothing. So moisture, road grit and highway salt sit in there and never really get cleaned (not to mention the lack of any primer..!) He kept the part for me to see what went on.
- front headlights REALLY started to yellow. Getting them 1000-grit then 1500-grit sanded, then polished, then clear coated by the body shop (they say it restores them to 95% (right now they are about 50-60%).
- front grille support rusted through at the curves behind the grill at the hood attachment points; replaced
- rear tailgate is holding in there; I keep after the lowerpinch weld and actually drilled 1" diameter holes on each side (jambs) of the gate above the tailgate hinges so I can stick the car wash wand in there occassionally and really clean it out. I wond up using red rustoleum on the bed side of the tailgate to keep it going.
- rear brake calipers FROZE up. They literally stopped working in the 'on' position. The ABS brake computer was all confused as the proportioning valve or something was messed up causing it to operate the front brakes. Basiclly the truck was not drivable as the ABS kept applying the front brakes for some reason. Replaced those, the pads, and the rotors (everythign was warped).
- front brakes need second replacment (rotors, calipers, and pads). Planning on doing this when I get the rig back from the body shop.
- center console arm rest tore.
- be wary of replacment lamps for the fog lights and tail lights. I had a brake/tail lamp base get heated and the contact wire depress itself into the plastic causing an intermitten 'lamp out' indicator alarm. Also had the factory fog lamp wire connectors melt down after I installed Hella lamps (same watts and volts but I guess created more heat); replaced the wiring harness lamp connectors with plastic/ceramic ones from Hella (good as new ;o)
- will keep everyone posted as things go along.
- I do have an intermitten 'check gauges' light which comes on and then goes immediately off (occurs infrequently; havent been able to track it down but think it's probably ground related?)
To build on my report below.
- Unsure what happened at 195,000 miles but I lost three injectors, they started rapping pretty badly/leaking fuel (lots of smoke on startup) and wound up replacing all 6 with cummins rebuilt. If I recall correctly they were $450 each installed with a 1-year 100,000 mile warranty.
- also adjusted the valves at 195,000 as well, didnt notice any audible difference.
- Now just rounding the 200,000 mile mark my drivers side rear quarter panel near the wheel well arch started bubbling paint. Started in the spring with a small paint blister; popped it off and touched up with some PPG acrylic enamel over Eastwood rust preventer. Those bubbles got larger and more appeared in the past 6-months. Rig is at the garage now getting wheel well patches on each side glued in place and paint. The truck has sat outside all year and has been used in these PA winters almost daily; so the body held out pretty good. It's running me $850/side for the work (paint entire side of box and take out some hail dents while he's there.) Turns out the rust is being cause by the back side. My body guy said there is sealer/glue in the seam at the high point where the inner wheel well hits the outer quarter panel; but from there down to the pinch weld at the wheel well lips there is nothing. So moisture, road grit and highway salt sit in there and never really get cleaned (not to mention the lack of any primer..!) He kept the part for me to see what went on.
- front headlights REALLY started to yellow. Getting them 1000-grit then 1500-grit sanded, then polished, then clear coated by the body shop (they say it restores them to 95% (right now they are about 50-60%).
- front grille support rusted through at the curves behind the grill at the hood attachment points; replaced
- rear tailgate is holding in there; I keep after the lowerpinch weld and actually drilled 1" diameter holes on each side (jambs) of the gate above the tailgate hinges so I can stick the car wash wand in there occassionally and really clean it out. I wond up using red rustoleum on the bed side of the tailgate to keep it going.
- rear brake calipers FROZE up. They literally stopped working in the 'on' position. The ABS brake computer was all confused as the proportioning valve or something was messed up causing it to operate the front brakes. Basiclly the truck was not drivable as the ABS kept applying the front brakes for some reason. Replaced those, the pads, and the rotors (everythign was warped).
- front brakes need second replacment (rotors, calipers, and pads). Planning on doing this when I get the rig back from the body shop.
- center console arm rest tore.
- be wary of replacment lamps for the fog lights and tail lights. I had a brake/tail lamp base get heated and the contact wire depress itself into the plastic causing an intermitten 'lamp out' indicator alarm. Also had the factory fog lamp wire connectors melt down after I installed Hella lamps (same watts and volts but I guess created more heat); replaced the wiring harness lamp connectors with plastic/ceramic ones from Hella (good as new ;o)
- will keep everyone posted as things go along.
- I do have an intermitten 'check gauges' light which comes on and then goes immediately off (occurs infrequently; havent been able to track it down but think it's probably ground related?)
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 745
Likes: 2
From: SE PA
I have an '04 std cab 305/555 that I bought new in '03.
Mine has 175,000 miles and I have not been anywhere near as careful as you on the maintenence.
All oil changes have been done at 10,000 miles using Delo 400 and it has never used a quart of oil between changes.
The engine oil comes out slightly brown and the rear end oil, after 50,000 miles, comes out looking like the new oil I put in.
I tow in the mountains and carry various loads all the time. I have run either a Bully Dog or a Smarty for about 165,000 miles. Nice power, quick response. A marvel everytime I pass someone on a high elevation grade. Just effortless thrust.
Front brake pads at about 95,000 miles, rears at about 130,000 miles. Lift pump at 68,000 miles replaced with a Glacier/Walbro kit. New TC to handle the power at around 90,000 miles (but still can't handle it).
With a Smarty and the timing advance and reasonable driving I get about 19-20 MPG going East over the Sierras and about 21 MPG coming back.
This is the best vehicle, by far, I have ever owned. If I lost it I would immediately get another one (next time a stick).
Every time I work it hard it rewards me by running better afterward. The engine always seems to out do the truck. Never needing full throttle to pull, I keep thinking I'll twist the driveshaft off if I get on it any harder.
With a gasser it's foot to the floor and row the gearbox to get over the grade. With a Cummins it's that captivating locomotive roar in any gear you choose or just go back to your daydreaming and not worry about it.
Mine has 175,000 miles and I have not been anywhere near as careful as you on the maintenence.
All oil changes have been done at 10,000 miles using Delo 400 and it has never used a quart of oil between changes.
The engine oil comes out slightly brown and the rear end oil, after 50,000 miles, comes out looking like the new oil I put in.
I tow in the mountains and carry various loads all the time. I have run either a Bully Dog or a Smarty for about 165,000 miles. Nice power, quick response. A marvel everytime I pass someone on a high elevation grade. Just effortless thrust.
Front brake pads at about 95,000 miles, rears at about 130,000 miles. Lift pump at 68,000 miles replaced with a Glacier/Walbro kit. New TC to handle the power at around 90,000 miles (but still can't handle it).
With a Smarty and the timing advance and reasonable driving I get about 19-20 MPG going East over the Sierras and about 21 MPG coming back.
This is the best vehicle, by far, I have ever owned. If I lost it I would immediately get another one (next time a stick).
Every time I work it hard it rewards me by running better afterward. The engine always seems to out do the truck. Never needing full throttle to pull, I keep thinking I'll twist the driveshaft off if I get on it any harder.
With a gasser it's foot to the floor and row the gearbox to get over the grade. With a Cummins it's that captivating locomotive roar in any gear you choose or just go back to your daydreaming and not worry about it.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
From: Schuylkill River Valley, Pennsylvania
2012 logistics update
2012 logistics update
- Still really enjoy this rig..!
Now have 240,000 miles on it. Still running strong, uses no oil.
- had drivers side cloth (SLT) seat bottom reformed and re-upholstered
- replaced starter at 239,000 miles
- evaporator core (in dash) went at 234,000 miles, replaced heater core, radiator and heater core hoses (getting very soft/thin), fixed flapper doors in heat/air box.
- replaced ball joints again at 230,000
- replaced rear tail light circuit boards (was blowing tail lamps when raining and stepping on brake pedal). Turns put was the gaskets between the board and lamp assembly letting in rain water and blowing lamps. Made new gaskets (3 donuts each side from neoprene)...problem solved.
Ron
- Still really enjoy this rig..!
Now have 240,000 miles on it. Still running strong, uses no oil.
- had drivers side cloth (SLT) seat bottom reformed and re-upholstered
- replaced starter at 239,000 miles
- evaporator core (in dash) went at 234,000 miles, replaced heater core, radiator and heater core hoses (getting very soft/thin), fixed flapper doors in heat/air box.
- replaced ball joints again at 230,000
- replaced rear tail light circuit boards (was blowing tail lamps when raining and stepping on brake pedal). Turns put was the gaskets between the board and lamp assembly letting in rain water and blowing lamps. Made new gaskets (3 donuts each side from neoprene)...problem solved.
Ron
Now at 220,000 Miles
- Nothing big to report since the last.
- Replaced Alternator at 218,000 miles
- felts inside the heater box which keeps the flappers from rattling at idle have disintegrated at 219,000 miles
- Replaced Ball Joints and steering knuckle U-joints (yes the grease-able ones still wear out the same as non-greasable, only thing is they dont squeak and violently let go like non-greasable ones do...had end-cap play and vibrations)
- Needs rear driveshaft u-joints (the rear driveshaft vibration just set in again...although with grease-able u-joints the vibration comes on at 75mph rather than 55mph...something to keep in mind)
- passenger side rear taillight circuit board quit...no backup light...also no-more other tail light failures since that occurred...so thinking the constant lights burning out comes from the passenger side backup lamp..???
- well maybe something big to report...something changed with fuel quality (again)...sometimes it seems like the injectors are sluggish...othertimes not...temperature seems to impact it as well. Days above 50dF its fine...below they all seem to rap a bit. Definitely isolated to the injectors. Some cummins mechanic recommended fuel lube clears it up. Weird. Almost as if DC needs to author a re-tune the ECM / PCM flash again...
Otherwise running strong....still no oil usage between fills (except in winter when cold)...
-----------------------------
Well...
To build on my report below.
- Unsure what happened at 195,000 miles but I lost three injectors, they started rapping pretty badly/leaking fuel (lots of smoke on startup) and wound up replacing all 6 with cummins rebuilt. If I recall correctly they were $450 each installed with a 1-year 100,000 mile warranty.
- also adjusted the valves at 195,000 as well, didnt notice any audible difference.
- Now just rounding the 200,000 mile mark my drivers side rear quarter panel near the wheel well arch started bubbling paint. Started in the spring with a small paint blister; popped it off and touched up with some PPG acrylic enamel over Eastwood rust preventer. Those bubbles got larger and more appeared in the past 6-months. Rig is at the garage now getting wheel well patches on each side glued in place and paint. The truck has sat outside all year and has been used in these PA winters almost daily; so the body held out pretty good. It's running me $850/side for the work (paint entire side of box and take out some hail dents while he's there.) Turns out the rust is being cause by the back side. My body guy said there is sealer/glue in the seam at the high point where the inner wheel well hits the outer quarter panel; but from there down to the pinch weld at the wheel well lips there is nothing. So moisture, road grit and highway salt sit in there and never really get cleaned (not to mention the lack of any primer..!) He kept the part for me to see what went on.
- front headlights REALLY started to yellow. Getting them 1000-grit then 1500-grit sanded, then polished, then clear coated by the body shop (they say it restores them to 95% (right now they are about 50-60%).
- front grille support rusted through at the curves behind the grill at the hood attachment points; replaced
- rear tailgate is holding in there; I keep after the lowerpinch weld and actually drilled 1" diameter holes on each side (jambs) of the gate above the tailgate hinges so I can stick the car wash wand in there occassionally and really clean it out. I wond up using red rustoleum on the bed side of the tailgate to keep it going.
- rear brake calipers FROZE up. They literally stopped working in the 'on' position. The ABS brake computer was all confused as the proportioning valve or something was messed up causing it to operate the front brakes. Basiclly the truck was not drivable as the ABS kept applying the front brakes for some reason. Replaced those, the pads, and the rotors (everythign was warped).
- front brakes need second replacment (rotors, calipers, and pads). Planning on doing this when I get the rig back from the body shop.
- center console arm rest tore.
- be wary of replacment lamps for the fog lights and tail lights. I had a brake/tail lamp base get heated and the contact wire depress itself into the plastic causing an intermitten 'lamp out' indicator alarm. Also had the factory fog lamp wire connectors melt down after I installed Hella lamps (same watts and volts but I guess created more heat); replaced the wiring harness lamp connectors with plastic/ceramic ones from Hella (good as new ;o)
- will keep everyone posted as things go along.
- I do have an intermitten 'check gauges' light which comes on and then goes immediately off (occurs infrequently; havent been able to track it down but think it's probably ground related?)
- Nothing big to report since the last.
- Replaced Alternator at 218,000 miles
- felts inside the heater box which keeps the flappers from rattling at idle have disintegrated at 219,000 miles
- Replaced Ball Joints and steering knuckle U-joints (yes the grease-able ones still wear out the same as non-greasable, only thing is they dont squeak and violently let go like non-greasable ones do...had end-cap play and vibrations)
- Needs rear driveshaft u-joints (the rear driveshaft vibration just set in again...although with grease-able u-joints the vibration comes on at 75mph rather than 55mph...something to keep in mind)
- passenger side rear taillight circuit board quit...no backup light...also no-more other tail light failures since that occurred...so thinking the constant lights burning out comes from the passenger side backup lamp..???
- well maybe something big to report...something changed with fuel quality (again)...sometimes it seems like the injectors are sluggish...othertimes not...temperature seems to impact it as well. Days above 50dF its fine...below they all seem to rap a bit. Definitely isolated to the injectors. Some cummins mechanic recommended fuel lube clears it up. Weird. Almost as if DC needs to author a re-tune the ECM / PCM flash again...
Otherwise running strong....still no oil usage between fills (except in winter when cold)...
-----------------------------
Well...
To build on my report below.
- Unsure what happened at 195,000 miles but I lost three injectors, they started rapping pretty badly/leaking fuel (lots of smoke on startup) and wound up replacing all 6 with cummins rebuilt. If I recall correctly they were $450 each installed with a 1-year 100,000 mile warranty.
- also adjusted the valves at 195,000 as well, didnt notice any audible difference.
- Now just rounding the 200,000 mile mark my drivers side rear quarter panel near the wheel well arch started bubbling paint. Started in the spring with a small paint blister; popped it off and touched up with some PPG acrylic enamel over Eastwood rust preventer. Those bubbles got larger and more appeared in the past 6-months. Rig is at the garage now getting wheel well patches on each side glued in place and paint. The truck has sat outside all year and has been used in these PA winters almost daily; so the body held out pretty good. It's running me $850/side for the work (paint entire side of box and take out some hail dents while he's there.) Turns out the rust is being cause by the back side. My body guy said there is sealer/glue in the seam at the high point where the inner wheel well hits the outer quarter panel; but from there down to the pinch weld at the wheel well lips there is nothing. So moisture, road grit and highway salt sit in there and never really get cleaned (not to mention the lack of any primer..!) He kept the part for me to see what went on.
- front headlights REALLY started to yellow. Getting them 1000-grit then 1500-grit sanded, then polished, then clear coated by the body shop (they say it restores them to 95% (right now they are about 50-60%).
- front grille support rusted through at the curves behind the grill at the hood attachment points; replaced
- rear tailgate is holding in there; I keep after the lowerpinch weld and actually drilled 1" diameter holes on each side (jambs) of the gate above the tailgate hinges so I can stick the car wash wand in there occassionally and really clean it out. I wond up using red rustoleum on the bed side of the tailgate to keep it going.
- rear brake calipers FROZE up. They literally stopped working in the 'on' position. The ABS brake computer was all confused as the proportioning valve or something was messed up causing it to operate the front brakes. Basiclly the truck was not drivable as the ABS kept applying the front brakes for some reason. Replaced those, the pads, and the rotors (everythign was warped).
- front brakes need second replacment (rotors, calipers, and pads). Planning on doing this when I get the rig back from the body shop.
- center console arm rest tore.
- be wary of replacment lamps for the fog lights and tail lights. I had a brake/tail lamp base get heated and the contact wire depress itself into the plastic causing an intermitten 'lamp out' indicator alarm. Also had the factory fog lamp wire connectors melt down after I installed Hella lamps (same watts and volts but I guess created more heat); replaced the wiring harness lamp connectors with plastic/ceramic ones from Hella (good as new ;o)
- will keep everyone posted as things go along.
- I do have an intermitten 'check gauges' light which comes on and then goes immediately off (occurs infrequently; havent been able to track it down but think it's probably ground related?)
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Good thread! I just purchased a 2003, 3500, quad cab, long bed, 6 spd manual with 132,000. The truck is clean with a good "Florida" body. The 373 gears showed 22.4 mpg on the drive home (all stock), I'm impressed. Started with regular service and plan on changing all the fluids, filters, belt & hoses. Will also look at suspension and brakes, the clutch was replaced at 80,000 according to receipt. It is good to hear this truck will last with a little maintenance. I grew up on Chrysler products then switched to Toyotas for 25 yrs, not sure I wanted to go back to Dodge but need a Cummins to pull a boat with. Yea I'm giving up on the gutless gas guzzling Tundra! Thanks for posting, the more I learn the more I can prevent problems on the road!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
From: Schuylkill River Valley, Pennsylvania
I've been doing the ole'...don't replace an item unless it breaks routine.
My diesel mechanic and I discussed the pulleys. He said he's yet to see them go bad...even on rigs up to 350,000.
I check them when I change fuel filters .
My diesel mechanic and I discussed the pulleys. He said he's yet to see them go bad...even on rigs up to 350,000.
I check them when I change fuel filters .
GW
DTR's Volcano Monitor, Toilet Smuggler, Taser tester, Meteorite enumerator, Quill counter, Match hoarder, Panic Dance Choreographer, Bet losing shrew murderer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 965
Likes: 0
From: Kenai Alaska
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
From: Schuylkill River Valley, Pennsylvania
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: central OH
Also, what prompted the starter replacement? Long cranking or other issues? Mine seems to take longer to start than I remember my previous 03 (but that was in 2006 and I got rid of it with ~55k miles).
Thanks
DTR's Volcano Monitor, Toilet Smuggler, Taser tester, Meteorite enumerator, Quill counter, Match hoarder, Panic Dance Choreographer, Bet losing shrew murderer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 965
Likes: 0
From: Kenai Alaska
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