03 Ram 2500 4x4 report at 180,000 miles
09-03-2009, 06:46 PM
#17
Great write up but I am not really impressed by a cummins making it to 180. 280 would impress me. I have 165 on my z71 and I used that thing like it was a 3/4 ton. I just added some overloads and a 10k hitch and pulled dump trailers like crazy. Pedal to the metal going up hills with over 10k behind it. That truck has only had a sway bar end link break, push button four wheel drive button go out and an alternator go out. Cant believe the auto is still working flawlesslyl. Dont really know what to do with the truck now since I have a big dog dodge cause it aint worth much but just want to see how long it can go. When you pay all this extra money for the cummins upgrade it is a risk cause it better get at least 250. My dually had more problems than a normal new truck should have but I think it may have worked out the kinks, or maybe I got rid of a lemon just in time. 35 on the 2500 now so hoping to see it last a looooong time.
09-03-2009, 09:55 PM
#18
That 180 was to prevent trouble move to keep it in top shape for the road.If you go down on the road you will pay out more than you do by doing it at home.THAT was money well spent on a very nice truck.That will be around when most are gone. I replace all my hose"s every 4 years and change antifreeze at the same time and a flush. Change oil and filters at 7.000.miles was changing at 4.000 miles and sending oil samples to Blackstone. They said for me to go to 6.000 miles.I went to 6.788 miles they I could go more but I will stay at 7.000 miles. Change every thing else like the book says.
09-03-2009, 11:48 PM
#19
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
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I have an '04 std cab 305/555 that I bought new in '03.
Mine has 175,000 miles and I have not been anywhere near as careful as you on the maintenence.
All oil changes have been done at 10,000 miles using Delo 400 and it has never used a quart of oil between changes.
The engine oil comes out slightly brown and the rear end oil, after 50,000 miles, comes out looking like the new oil I put in.
I tow in the mountains and carry various loads all the time. I have run either a Bully Dog or a Smarty for about 165,000 miles. Nice power, quick response. A marvel everytime I pass someone on a high elevation grade. Just effortless thrust.
Front brake pads at about 95,000 miles, rears at about 130,000 miles. Lift pump at 68,000 miles replaced with a Glacier/Walbro kit. New TC to handle the power at around 90,000 miles (but still can't handle it).
With a Smarty and the timing advance and reasonable driving I get about 19-20 MPG going East over the Sierras and about 21 MPG coming back.
This is the best vehicle, by far, I have ever owned. If I lost it I would immediately get another one (next time a stick).
Every time I work it hard it rewards me by running better afterward. The engine always seems to out do the truck. Never needing full throttle to pull, I keep thinking I'll twist the driveshaft off if I get on it any harder.
With a gasser it's foot to the floor and row the gearbox to get over the grade. With a Cummins it's that captivating locomotive roar in any gear you choose or just go back to your daydreaming and not worry about it.
Mine has 175,000 miles and I have not been anywhere near as careful as you on the maintenence.
All oil changes have been done at 10,000 miles using Delo 400 and it has never used a quart of oil between changes.
The engine oil comes out slightly brown and the rear end oil, after 50,000 miles, comes out looking like the new oil I put in.
I tow in the mountains and carry various loads all the time. I have run either a Bully Dog or a Smarty for about 165,000 miles. Nice power, quick response. A marvel everytime I pass someone on a high elevation grade. Just effortless thrust.
Front brake pads at about 95,000 miles, rears at about 130,000 miles. Lift pump at 68,000 miles replaced with a Glacier/Walbro kit. New TC to handle the power at around 90,000 miles (but still can't handle it).
With a Smarty and the timing advance and reasonable driving I get about 19-20 MPG going East over the Sierras and about 21 MPG coming back.
This is the best vehicle, by far, I have ever owned. If I lost it I would immediately get another one (next time a stick).
Every time I work it hard it rewards me by running better afterward. The engine always seems to out do the truck. Never needing full throttle to pull, I keep thinking I'll twist the driveshaft off if I get on it any harder.
With a gasser it's foot to the floor and row the gearbox to get over the grade. With a Cummins it's that captivating locomotive roar in any gear you choose or just go back to your daydreaming and not worry about it.
09-04-2009, 01:52 AM
#20
Registered User
This is a great thread.
I often ask people to name another vehicle....any vehicle....that can do all 5 of these things.....that our trucks can do.
1. Get 18+ MPG
2. Protect the occupants of the vehicle from a 50 mph T-Boned crash from a mid size car.
3. Capability of pulling a 15K+lb trailer load with ease.
4. Run the quarter mile potentially in the 12s. (Some faster!)
5. Last a half-million miles (some much more)
..
I often ask people to name another vehicle....any vehicle....that can do all 5 of these things.....that our trucks can do.
1. Get 18+ MPG
2. Protect the occupants of the vehicle from a 50 mph T-Boned crash from a mid size car.
3. Capability of pulling a 15K+lb trailer load with ease.
4. Run the quarter mile potentially in the 12s. (Some faster!)
5. Last a half-million miles (some much more)
..
09-04-2009, 07:26 AM
#21
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I'm headed that way.
Often mentioned to the Dealer I'm not trading until I hit 300k.
In reality. The rig is already paying for itself after 100k. Truck was paid off at that point. Do agree that a diesel should and is going to run much longer.
For the 4200 I spent on the truck in maintenance (replacment items) over the past couple years, those replaced items should now be good for at least 250k miles (radiator, alternator, idler pulleys, ac, oil pump, fuel injector pump and injectors are the remaining outliers after this weekend)
Often mentioned to the Dealer I'm not trading until I hit 300k.
In reality. The rig is already paying for itself after 100k. Truck was paid off at that point. Do agree that a diesel should and is going to run much longer.
For the 4200 I spent on the truck in maintenance (replacment items) over the past couple years, those replaced items should now be good for at least 250k miles (radiator, alternator, idler pulleys, ac, oil pump, fuel injector pump and injectors are the remaining outliers after this weekend)
09-04-2009, 07:29 AM
#22
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.
Often mentioned to the Dealer I'm not trading until I hit 300k.
In reality. The rig is already paying for itself after 100k. Truck was paid off at that point. Do agree that a diesel should and is going to run much longer.
For the 4200 I spent on the truck in maintenance (replacment items) over the past couple years, those replaced items should now be good for at least 250k miles (radiator, alternator, idler pulleys, ac, oil pump, fuel injector pump and injectors are the remaining outliers after this weekend).
...basically I couldn't buy 'my' truck again at 180,000miles for 4200 bucks and expect to run it another 100k.
Often mentioned to the Dealer I'm not trading until I hit 300k.
In reality. The rig is already paying for itself after 100k. Truck was paid off at that point. Do agree that a diesel should and is going to run much longer.
For the 4200 I spent on the truck in maintenance (replacment items) over the past couple years, those replaced items should now be good for at least 250k miles (radiator, alternator, idler pulleys, ac, oil pump, fuel injector pump and injectors are the remaining outliers after this weekend).
...basically I couldn't buy 'my' truck again at 180,000miles for 4200 bucks and expect to run it another 100k.
11-02-2010, 12:29 PM
#23
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03 Dodge Ram 2500 - Update 200,000+/- mile report
Well...
To build on my report below.
- Unsure what happened at 195,000 miles but I lost three injectors, they started rapping pretty badly/leaking fuel (lots of smoke on startup) and wound up replacing all 6 with cummins rebuilt. If I recall correctly they were $450 each installed with a 1-year 100,000 mile warranty.
- also adjusted the valves at 195,000 as well, didnt notice any audible difference.
- Now just rounding the 200,000 mile mark my drivers side rear quarter panel near the wheel well arch started bubbling paint. Started in the spring with a small paint blister; popped it off and touched up with some PPG acrylic enamel over Eastwood rust preventer. Those bubbles got larger and more appeared in the past 6-months. Rig is at the garage now getting wheel well patches on each side glued in place and paint. The truck has sat outside all year and has been used in these PA winters almost daily; so the body held out pretty good. It's running me $850/side for the work (paint entire side of box and take out some hail dents while he's there.) Turns out the rust is being cause by the back side. My body guy said there is sealer/glue in the seam at the high point where the inner wheel well hits the outer quarter panel; but from there down to the pinch weld at the wheel well lips there is nothing. So moisture, road grit and highway salt sit in there and never really get cleaned (not to mention the lack of any primer..!) He kept the part for me to see what went on.
- front headlights REALLY started to yellow. Getting them 1000-grit then 1500-grit sanded, then polished, then clear coated by the body shop (they say it restores them to 95% (right now they are about 50-60%).
- front grille support rusted through at the curves behind the grill at the hood attachment points; replaced
- rear tailgate is holding in there; I keep after the lowerpinch weld and actually drilled 1" diameter holes on each side (jambs) of the gate above the tailgate hinges so I can stick the car wash wand in there occassionally and really clean it out. I wond up using red rustoleum on the bed side of the tailgate to keep it going.
- rear brake calipers FROZE up. They literally stopped working in the 'on' position. The ABS brake computer was all confused as the proportioning valve or something was messed up causing it to operate the front brakes. Basiclly the truck was not drivable as the ABS kept applying the front brakes for some reason. Replaced those, the pads, and the rotors (everythign was warped).
- front brakes need second replacment (rotors, calipers, and pads). Planning on doing this when I get the rig back from the body shop.
- center console arm rest tore.
- be wary of replacment lamps for the fog lights and tail lights. I had a brake/tail lamp base get heated and the contact wire depress itself into the plastic causing an intermitten 'lamp out' indicator alarm. Also had the factory fog lamp wire connectors melt down after I installed Hella lamps (same watts and volts but I guess created more heat); replaced the wiring harness lamp connectors with plastic/ceramic ones from Hella (good as new ;o)
- will keep everyone posted as things go along.
- I do have an intermitten 'check gauges' light which comes on and then goes immediately off (occurs infrequently; havent been able to track it down but think it's probably ground related?)
To build on my report below.
- Unsure what happened at 195,000 miles but I lost three injectors, they started rapping pretty badly/leaking fuel (lots of smoke on startup) and wound up replacing all 6 with cummins rebuilt. If I recall correctly they were $450 each installed with a 1-year 100,000 mile warranty.
- also adjusted the valves at 195,000 as well, didnt notice any audible difference.
- Now just rounding the 200,000 mile mark my drivers side rear quarter panel near the wheel well arch started bubbling paint. Started in the spring with a small paint blister; popped it off and touched up with some PPG acrylic enamel over Eastwood rust preventer. Those bubbles got larger and more appeared in the past 6-months. Rig is at the garage now getting wheel well patches on each side glued in place and paint. The truck has sat outside all year and has been used in these PA winters almost daily; so the body held out pretty good. It's running me $850/side for the work (paint entire side of box and take out some hail dents while he's there.) Turns out the rust is being cause by the back side. My body guy said there is sealer/glue in the seam at the high point where the inner wheel well hits the outer quarter panel; but from there down to the pinch weld at the wheel well lips there is nothing. So moisture, road grit and highway salt sit in there and never really get cleaned (not to mention the lack of any primer..!) He kept the part for me to see what went on.
- front headlights REALLY started to yellow. Getting them 1000-grit then 1500-grit sanded, then polished, then clear coated by the body shop (they say it restores them to 95% (right now they are about 50-60%).
- front grille support rusted through at the curves behind the grill at the hood attachment points; replaced
- rear tailgate is holding in there; I keep after the lowerpinch weld and actually drilled 1" diameter holes on each side (jambs) of the gate above the tailgate hinges so I can stick the car wash wand in there occassionally and really clean it out. I wond up using red rustoleum on the bed side of the tailgate to keep it going.
- rear brake calipers FROZE up. They literally stopped working in the 'on' position. The ABS brake computer was all confused as the proportioning valve or something was messed up causing it to operate the front brakes. Basiclly the truck was not drivable as the ABS kept applying the front brakes for some reason. Replaced those, the pads, and the rotors (everythign was warped).
- front brakes need second replacment (rotors, calipers, and pads). Planning on doing this when I get the rig back from the body shop.
- center console arm rest tore.
- be wary of replacment lamps for the fog lights and tail lights. I had a brake/tail lamp base get heated and the contact wire depress itself into the plastic causing an intermitten 'lamp out' indicator alarm. Also had the factory fog lamp wire connectors melt down after I installed Hella lamps (same watts and volts but I guess created more heat); replaced the wiring harness lamp connectors with plastic/ceramic ones from Hella (good as new ;o)
- will keep everyone posted as things go along.
- I do have an intermitten 'check gauges' light which comes on and then goes immediately off (occurs infrequently; havent been able to track it down but think it's probably ground related?)
First things first:
- 2003 Ram 2500, 5.9 Cummins HO (305/555), 4x4, 6-spd, Reg-Cab, Long-Box, 3.73.
Few things I learned for Forum knowledge:
- Change oil and filter regularly 7500mile schedule; I use Shell Rotella T (recommendation by my Uncle who was a Cummins mechanic for years)
- Change fuel filter just as regularly (recommendation by my Uncle who was a Cummins mechanic for years)
- change air filter regularly. I do mine twice a year - March after the roads are clean from the salt, November before winter starts. It's the same time I replace my windshield wiper blades.
- change transmission, transfer case, and front and rear diff oil every 50k miles or after getting them wet (who cares what the book says)
- When out of warranty replace factory sealed U-joints with greasable units and grease regularly (factory one spent around 50k miles) - remember the outer tie rod ball joints are factory greaseable!!!
- at 50,000 miles I installed the MBRP single 4" exhaust. Also removed the turbo silencer ring and hogged out the factory air intake wind vane. Picked up 2-4 mpg (if I kept my foot out of it and kept the sustained highway rpms under 2000 or 70mph)
- Monitor the front hubs, one side started going bad with a squeak at 90k miles, the other at 92k miles (anticipating to do them again soon).
- 100,000 miles, flush radiator, replace thermostats.
- steering knuckle ball joints: mine went (both sides) and was found at state inspection at 120,000 miles (garage said mine lasted longer than most).
- Keep an eye on the electro-mechanical fan after nearing 150,000 miles
- Keep the other eye on the steering gearbox and pump around the same.
- keep the third eye on the water pump
- replace fan belt 175,000 miles (mine still looked good so I kept it in the cab).
- my factory clutch went at 180,000 miles. Replaced clutch, pressure plate, pilot and throwout bearing; removed glaze from flywheel (didnt cut as I have no chatter). Also replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder (couldnt justify doing one without the other). FYI: This initially cloaked itself as a synchronizer (or shifter) issue as the clutch held strong and worked fine; but then in about 5000 miles really disclosed itself as a clutch/input shaft spin-down problem. Either it was the pilot bearing, slight warp to the clutch disc/ pressure plate, the master/slave cylinder wearing, or the build up of goop on the input shaft which prevented the clutch disc from releasing who knows. Apparently the transmission internally is fine as after the installation above it shifts like new. The flywheel and pressure plate looked good for wear, the clutch probably had another 5,000-10,000 miles to go (close to rivets)
- keep the body cleaned and waxed. Clean dirt from bumpers (paint the hidden area with rustoleum) and locations where it hangs behind the body.
- keep an eye on the sheet metal fold over seams (tailgate, bottom of doors, etc). I found mine to start showing bubbles and rust. Since they arent seen from view I dremel the rust area with a small wheel and then paint with rustoleum (the bright red closely matches my truck) The rustoleum will not stick to the polyurethane body paint but will stick to the bare metal, galvanizing and primer. Trust me on this, once rust starts, it'll move along quickly. So best to nip it in the bud. Make sure to remove all the rust while it's small with a small wire wheel. By the same method, I always go over the box in my truck with the rustoleum paint after hauling to seal up the areas where the box was scraped (I have a rubber mat liner and probably should have invested in Rhinoliner or equal). Intesting in a good tonneau (bed) cover is worth the investiment.
- clean and paint frame yearly to hide rust with rustoleum flat black. This keeps the frame looking like new.
- go over hoses and bushings with Silicone spray. It'll keep them pliable (and slow the aging process).
- keep the interior clean.
- keep the engine clean (I clean mine every 7500 miles, hose it all down at the local carwash - the DC mechanics thank me regularly).
- Hella 9007 65/55w lamps make a big difference in the intensity and quality of light coming from the headlamps.
- replace all taillight and turnsignal lamps (bulbs) at 100000miles. It's better than being pulled over by the Local Yocal after having a few
(and much cheaper).
- the B&W Hidden-Hitch is really a great piece for flexible gooseneck and 5-wheel pulling.
- I run PowerService Injector Cleaner/Lube and Fuel Treatment every oil change.
- I run 8oz 2-stroke engine oil every 32 gallons of fuel (at your own risk), every 5th tank I dont add it).
-----------
Next items to consider for me (let me know your experiences):
- service A/C - mines still cold but sooner or later she's gonna let loose
- replace engine oil pump
- rebuild/replace alternator
- rebearing/replace the idler pulleys
- keep an eye on the radiator, radiator hoses
- hope the injectors hold out (ones making ticking noise for 100,000 miles but I'm still getting 20-23mpg mixed driving so I'm not worried)
Final thoughts:
1) Cummins engines are Awesome (Dodge parts are expensive and considering labor to replace, much better to go aftermarket after warranty - Dodge needs to rethink their pricing structure and parts inventory logistics) (OK, flame me).
2) Even though the Cummins makes a lot of new noises through the miles - dont worry, she'll pull through.
3) Dodge really needs to pay attention to paint application and body seam locations (apply seam sealer would be a good idea). I have 'older' vehicles (by 8 years) which are not displaying the rust at body seam locations and they experience the same driving and exterior storage conditions (not that I have a big problem yet, simply disappointing considering the truck costs twice as much as the car).
4) The chrome (even though I keep the body cleaned and waxed) is pitting. I have a 67 mustang with original chome (applied to white metal) which looks better in most cases.
5) The lack of rattles, squeaks, relative tightness and overall ride quality of the truck at 180,000 miles is really amazing (mine has snow plow package and still fit the OE BF Goodrich Rugged Trail TAs on the truck. They last 50k miles each time, only get noisy in the last 5000 miles of wear, and work really well in all weather conditions while looking good doing it).
6) Would I buy another? Absolutely (unsure with the full emissions sytems on the newer models, but would definitely get another 03 pre-emissions rig). But...at this point I'm keeping her for at least 300k miles. Considering the truck is still work $15-19,000 on a trade in, it's worth investing a few thousand to keep it running in my mind.
Hope it helps. I think this is good info for someone looking to purchase a used rig or possibly in what to expect in maintaining their own.
Anyone has any helpful hints for me, let me know.
- 2003 Ram 2500, 5.9 Cummins HO (305/555), 4x4, 6-spd, Reg-Cab, Long-Box, 3.73.
Few things I learned for Forum knowledge:
- Change oil and filter regularly 7500mile schedule; I use Shell Rotella T (recommendation by my Uncle who was a Cummins mechanic for years)
- Change fuel filter just as regularly (recommendation by my Uncle who was a Cummins mechanic for years)
- change air filter regularly. I do mine twice a year - March after the roads are clean from the salt, November before winter starts. It's the same time I replace my windshield wiper blades.
- change transmission, transfer case, and front and rear diff oil every 50k miles or after getting them wet (who cares what the book says)
- When out of warranty replace factory sealed U-joints with greasable units and grease regularly (factory one spent around 50k miles) - remember the outer tie rod ball joints are factory greaseable!!!
- at 50,000 miles I installed the MBRP single 4" exhaust. Also removed the turbo silencer ring and hogged out the factory air intake wind vane. Picked up 2-4 mpg (if I kept my foot out of it and kept the sustained highway rpms under 2000 or 70mph)
- Monitor the front hubs, one side started going bad with a squeak at 90k miles, the other at 92k miles (anticipating to do them again soon).
- 100,000 miles, flush radiator, replace thermostats.
- steering knuckle ball joints: mine went (both sides) and was found at state inspection at 120,000 miles (garage said mine lasted longer than most).
- Keep an eye on the electro-mechanical fan after nearing 150,000 miles
- Keep the other eye on the steering gearbox and pump around the same.
- keep the third eye on the water pump
- replace fan belt 175,000 miles (mine still looked good so I kept it in the cab).
- my factory clutch went at 180,000 miles. Replaced clutch, pressure plate, pilot and throwout bearing; removed glaze from flywheel (didnt cut as I have no chatter). Also replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder (couldnt justify doing one without the other). FYI: This initially cloaked itself as a synchronizer (or shifter) issue as the clutch held strong and worked fine; but then in about 5000 miles really disclosed itself as a clutch/input shaft spin-down problem. Either it was the pilot bearing, slight warp to the clutch disc/ pressure plate, the master/slave cylinder wearing, or the build up of goop on the input shaft which prevented the clutch disc from releasing who knows. Apparently the transmission internally is fine as after the installation above it shifts like new. The flywheel and pressure plate looked good for wear, the clutch probably had another 5,000-10,000 miles to go (close to rivets)
- keep the body cleaned and waxed. Clean dirt from bumpers (paint the hidden area with rustoleum) and locations where it hangs behind the body.
- keep an eye on the sheet metal fold over seams (tailgate, bottom of doors, etc). I found mine to start showing bubbles and rust. Since they arent seen from view I dremel the rust area with a small wheel and then paint with rustoleum (the bright red closely matches my truck) The rustoleum will not stick to the polyurethane body paint but will stick to the bare metal, galvanizing and primer. Trust me on this, once rust starts, it'll move along quickly. So best to nip it in the bud. Make sure to remove all the rust while it's small with a small wire wheel. By the same method, I always go over the box in my truck with the rustoleum paint after hauling to seal up the areas where the box was scraped (I have a rubber mat liner and probably should have invested in Rhinoliner or equal). Intesting in a good tonneau (bed) cover is worth the investiment.
- clean and paint frame yearly to hide rust with rustoleum flat black. This keeps the frame looking like new.
- go over hoses and bushings with Silicone spray. It'll keep them pliable (and slow the aging process).
- keep the interior clean.
- keep the engine clean (I clean mine every 7500 miles, hose it all down at the local carwash - the DC mechanics thank me regularly).
- Hella 9007 65/55w lamps make a big difference in the intensity and quality of light coming from the headlamps.
- replace all taillight and turnsignal lamps (bulbs) at 100000miles. It's better than being pulled over by the Local Yocal after having a few
(and much cheaper).- the B&W Hidden-Hitch is really a great piece for flexible gooseneck and 5-wheel pulling.
- I run PowerService Injector Cleaner/Lube and Fuel Treatment every oil change.
- I run 8oz 2-stroke engine oil every 32 gallons of fuel (at your own risk), every 5th tank I dont add it).
-----------
Next items to consider for me (let me know your experiences):
- service A/C - mines still cold but sooner or later she's gonna let loose
- replace engine oil pump
- rebuild/replace alternator
- rebearing/replace the idler pulleys
- keep an eye on the radiator, radiator hoses
- hope the injectors hold out (ones making ticking noise for 100,000 miles but I'm still getting 20-23mpg mixed driving so I'm not worried)
Final thoughts:
1) Cummins engines are Awesome (Dodge parts are expensive and considering labor to replace, much better to go aftermarket after warranty - Dodge needs to rethink their pricing structure and parts inventory logistics) (OK, flame me).
2) Even though the Cummins makes a lot of new noises through the miles - dont worry, she'll pull through.
3) Dodge really needs to pay attention to paint application and body seam locations (apply seam sealer would be a good idea). I have 'older' vehicles (by 8 years) which are not displaying the rust at body seam locations and they experience the same driving and exterior storage conditions (not that I have a big problem yet, simply disappointing considering the truck costs twice as much as the car).
4) The chrome (even though I keep the body cleaned and waxed) is pitting. I have a 67 mustang with original chome (applied to white metal) which looks better in most cases.
5) The lack of rattles, squeaks, relative tightness and overall ride quality of the truck at 180,000 miles is really amazing (mine has snow plow package and still fit the OE BF Goodrich Rugged Trail TAs on the truck. They last 50k miles each time, only get noisy in the last 5000 miles of wear, and work really well in all weather conditions while looking good doing it).
6) Would I buy another? Absolutely (unsure with the full emissions sytems on the newer models, but would definitely get another 03 pre-emissions rig). But...at this point I'm keeping her for at least 300k miles. Considering the truck is still work $15-19,000 on a trade in, it's worth investing a few thousand to keep it running in my mind.
Hope it helps. I think this is good info for someone looking to purchase a used rig or possibly in what to expect in maintaining their own.
Anyone has any helpful hints for me, let me know.
01-05-2011, 09:44 PM
#24
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Can I ask why you plan to replace the oil pump? Just curious, I would think you would be opening yourself up to more potential problems than what its worth, especially if you havent seen a loss in oil pressure, and if so, I would be looking past the oil pump as the problem. I have seen many of these trucks go 400-500k with the same pump.
01-07-2011, 09:51 PM
#25
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Your intermittent check guages problem is likely the FCM or front control module going bad. Mine started out slowly giving me little signs that something was wrong until it gets to be so bad that the dash guages drop out and you will get a no bus display in the odometer window and other weird things like no control of your wipers or lights. This module is attached to the fender side of the underhood fuse box. The latest part number for it is 56051036AF. It is $250 at the local dealers and can be found cheaper online. You might not experience any serious problems with it for a while but just thought I would mention it since I was reading the thread and I am going through the problems now.
01-09-2011, 06:38 AM
#26
Replaced my belt at about 95,000. Only a few thousand miles later I started the truck up and heard this loud cracking noise coming from under the hood. The new belt was broke and so was the idler.
Put a new idler and a new belt on it. So far so good. Still have the original belt that still looks pretty darn good.
Put a new idler and a new belt on it. So far so good. Still have the original belt that still looks pretty darn good.
01-19-2011, 07:33 AM
#27
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Definitely want to follow this thread. With 225k on my '05 3500. It would behoove me to stay vigilant. Next weekend, I am taking it in for a coolant flush, oil change, trans drain, rear diff drain, new belt and maybe a pyrometer...though the truck is stock, save for an air filter of questionable origin.
08-10-2011, 12:14 PM
#29
Registered User
What was meant by "NO FLUSHES" ... Is flushing not recomended when changing the filter & fluid ??? (I know every vehicles different, but I always flush the tranny on my I6 Wrangler with no issues).
