If the batteries are weak then also make sure you give them both a good charging otherwise you may find yourself in another situation whereby these trucks are not tolerant to weak batteries or bad batteries or anything which will affect the charging system, like corrosion and loose connections and excessive alternator AC voltage.

 

Got the pump in (and the filter) Bled the injectors as suggested and it started up quickly! Fuel source was a fuel can, so I will hook it up to the tank tomorrow. Thanks so much for the help. When I disconnect the temporary line and hook the tank lines back up, will I need to do a whole injector bleed again?

 

No you shouldnt need to. It may hiccup on you once or twice but thats about it. And glad you got it figured out...

 

I couldn't work on the truck for a few days. Today I cleaned all the battery cable connections and hooked up the fuel tank to the truck lines using rubber hose and stainless steel clamps. The tank is not all the way into the installed position. It is resting on two 4x4 stacked on each end. I think there is about 12-15 gallons of fuel in the tank and the gauge is reading a little less than half full. I ran the pump several times until I no longer saw bubbles coming out of the bleed valve. I have cranked it about 8 times with #1,3 and 4 injectors loose. I am getting fuel and bubbles out of them. Most out of 4, less out of 3 and least out of 1. I am doing the correct procedure to get the air out? How many times might it take? What else can I do and what else might be wrong?.

 

How long are you cranking the engine? You're good to crank up to 10 seconds with 1 minute intervals just to be sure the starter doesnt overheat. Dont let the batteries run down otherwise cranking speed will reduce and slow cranking speed will cause hard starting or no starting. Remember, diesels build combustion heat by the compression through piston speed. Piston moving too slow = lower combustion chamber temps.

Hopefully you have a fuel pressure gauge too because its important to positively know that you're getting fuel pressure. I'm sure you are but just making the point...
If all is working correctly then you should be able to get the truck started with a couple cycles of cranking. If it simply wont start then somethings wrong. At that point I'd say you can give ether a try. BUT...IMPORTANT...!!!!! You MUST disconnect the grid heater relays before you use ether otherwise the grids could unintentionally turn on and possibly cause an intake explosion. Obviously that would be bad.

 

We have been cranking for 10 seconds and then waiting at least a minute. We try three times and then wait for the batteries to recover. Don't have a fuel pressure gauge. How do I put one in? Don't want to try ether. Too dangerous.

 

Somethings not right... Especially since you just had it running. Either there's a fueling problem (no fuel, no fuel pressure, or the VP isnt working), or the batteries are too weak, or the starter is toast. Automotive batteries cant be drained past 12 volts more than a few times before they sulfate and the grids start falling apart. If you have to recharge them then make sure they're BOTH in good shape at no less than 12.6v while tested disconnected from each other. And if the starter is in good shape then (with good batteries) that engine should be cranking at good RPM's. Slower cccccrrrrrrannnnkkk cccrrrraaaannnkkk cranking of the engine wont cut it and it will never start. You should feel the truck shaking from the engine cranking speed.

That said, if all is as described then you'll see the burbling of fuel coming out the injector line nuts. It will be more than a dribble but less than a squirt. If you're hardly seeing any fuel coming out like they're drooling then thats a fueling problem.

 

Haven't been able to work on the truck due to family medical issues. Since I got it to run with the fuel suction line in a 5 gallon can I am thinking it must be a problem with module. I am thinking about removing it from the tank, putting it in a bucket of fuel and see what happens. I noticed that the cylinder is spring loaded and it compressed when pushed into the tank all the way. I assume that this is to keep intake at the very bottom as the tank expands or contracts from heat or quantity.

 

Yes, the module is spring loaded to keep the tray on the bottom of the tank at all times. If you're not getting fuel out of the module then thats obviously a problem. Why its not allowing fuel out of the tank could be the supply line isnt connected correctly, or the o-ring is missing at the quick connect on top of the module...which would prevent suction. Of there's a blockage somewhere.

 

So today I ran a line from a 5 gallon can to the metal fuel line on the truck bypassing the module altogether. Air stopped coming out of the bleeder after two 20 sec pump runs. I bled the injectors twice and the engine started. So took the hose out of the can, keeping a finger over the hose opening, and connected it to the module The engine started and ran for about 15 seconds and then died. Could not bleed air out of the system. So I removed the tank and the took out the module. I will try to return it through Amazon. Is there any way to test it to see where the air is coming in? When installed I am using diesel approved "rubber" hose with two clamps on each end. The original plastic lines were kinked. I am unable to figure out a way to replace them with same. Looks like they are "heat shrinked" on. The lines that came with my hand syphon pump are plastic and work well for bypassing the module, but I don't know if they would be durable enough for long term use.

 

Well at least you figured it out...
I wouldnt be surprised if the module you purchased is for the in-tank version. Its not easy to see the fuel pump tucked inside the module but if that fuel pump isnt running then no fuel will pass through it.

 

After reading your response I looked closely at the unit and there is indeed a fuel pump in there. I have heard that converting trucks to the in tank pump is not a good idea, and I already just replace the engine mounted pump. I don't recall seeing the unit I need anywhere. Any idea of where I can get one? Thank SOOOOOO much for the help.

 

I'm not sure if you can bypass that fuel pump in the module... You'd have to check and see if anyone has ever done that. But here's a couple vendors who carry fuel modules and related parts. DrawStraw™ Fuel Module Upgrades and https://www.genosgarage.com/category/s?keyword=module

 

I have a unit coming from Geno's. Apparently they take the ones that have the pump in it and modify it to work in tanks that don't have a fuel pump in it. I REALLY REALLY appreciate the help.

 

Hopefully you get it all resolved soon. I'm sure you're ready to be done with this...