Sway bar end links
#17
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with what they are made of they should not rust. the picture I posted on this thread was about a year on them and no rust.
this is what the company says
MAXX Link Heavy-Duty Sway Bar End Links for full-size 4X4 Dodge Ram pick-ups. MAXX Link sway bar links are the extremely durable and cost efficient solution to the Dodge truck's reputation for chewing up OEM ball-in-socket style end links.
Made from a combination of high grade steel and corrosion-resistant components, the MAXX Link system utilizes simple, effective design in conjunction with sturdy, robust parts to achieve outstanding performance and long-lasting results! No more changing your Dodge's sway bar links every fifty thousand miles!
MAXX Links are engineering to work hard and built tough to last a long time. Perfectly suited as a high-quality replacement piece or as a preventative maintenance measure.
this is what the company says
MAXX Link Heavy-Duty Sway Bar End Links for full-size 4X4 Dodge Ram pick-ups. MAXX Link sway bar links are the extremely durable and cost efficient solution to the Dodge truck's reputation for chewing up OEM ball-in-socket style end links.
Made from a combination of high grade steel and corrosion-resistant components, the MAXX Link system utilizes simple, effective design in conjunction with sturdy, robust parts to achieve outstanding performance and long-lasting results! No more changing your Dodge's sway bar links every fifty thousand miles!
MAXX Links are engineering to work hard and built tough to last a long time. Perfectly suited as a high-quality replacement piece or as a preventative maintenance measure.
Last edited by DIESELWRKS; 02-09-2011 at 05:32 PM. Reason: add
#18
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Zinc coated class 5 bolts are corrosion resistant and I'm sure we all know how effective it is... as is paint, powder coating...they make no mention of using stainless steel - if they did it would be touted. I'm wondering since I like the design and the reputation of the company (some stories online in other places) just worry about rusting since I have a plow truck in the salt belt...course, cutting these off if they outlast 2 stockers I'm still ahead.
Thanks - they look great after a year so that's a good indicator.
Thanks - they look great after a year so that's a good indicator.
#19
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been happy with these for over a year now. plus they are rebuildable these take water and road salt better then a jointed one IMO.
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SMX-1225
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...9&d=1253062315
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SMX-1225
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...9&d=1253062315
Did you have to use the ones that are made for lifted trucks?
#21
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did you make those drop blocks yourself?.....i noticed that you are able to use a steering stabilizer with yours.....i have some kore drop blocks on right now & thinking about taking them off because i can't put a steering stabilizer on with them....i guess i will just have to get some longer sway bar end links to compensate for the lift...it's only about 3 1/2"....is that the way to go?
#22
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On edit: Is that an actual tie rod end from a Caravan you used, or is it a swaybar link from a Caravan? Thanks.
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#25
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its a swaybar link from a caravan, and the "tie rod end" is not tapered, I think the setup is reverse on the older trucks compared to mine.
if I remember correctly my frame end has a slight taper, but it fits snuggly and has not moved since I installed them
#26
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I used the 32 energy suspension bushing for the sway bar, I have the part number I can look for in the junk area still have the box.
the block for the sway bar came with my lift it is a hollow channeled piece that allows you to use the top bolt holes for the steering stabilizer and mounting to the frame and the bottom holes for the sway bar bushing and mounting. maybe a picture or two can help what I'm trying to explain.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...eering-004.jpg
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...eering-002.jpg
could you run longer bolts to use your Kore blocks. put the steering stab first then blocks and they sway bar? haven't seen kore blocks so just guessing here.
the block for the sway bar came with my lift it is a hollow channeled piece that allows you to use the top bolt holes for the steering stabilizer and mounting to the frame and the bottom holes for the sway bar bushing and mounting. maybe a picture or two can help what I'm trying to explain.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...eering-004.jpg
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...eering-002.jpg
could you run longer bolts to use your Kore blocks. put the steering stab first then blocks and they sway bar? haven't seen kore blocks so just guessing here.
Last edited by DIESELWRKS; 02-13-2011 at 12:16 AM. Reason: add
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