Steering wheel stereo controls quit working
Steering wheel stereo controls quit working
Looking for any help I can get. Steering wheel stereo controls, Key Fobs, Door Locks and I just found out the intermitant wiper control settings are not functioning. Is there any connection between these electrical items???
I appreciate any and all suggestions.
I appreciate any and all suggestions.
Not sure about any specifics, but a good starting point is to check all the fuses in the fusebox. You can ignore the ones that are not related, but I just check all mine, one time found one burned out that I never would have noticed.
I have checked them, everything looks good.
I have checked them, everything looks good.
Most autoparts sell a tester for under $10 that tests fuses in place, well worth the investment.
Other problem could be a bad clockspring described here http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/982.htm
Sounds like the Clock Spring has gone bad. If so, it should be repaired ASAP, since the Driver side SRS (Airbag) will not operate when needed. It doesn't look like the recall applies to your truck but it offers some valuable information about the Clock Spring.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/982.htm
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/982.htm
Sounds like the Clock Spring has gone bad. If so, it should be repaired ASAP, since the Driver side SRS (Airbag) will not operate when needed. It doesn't look like the recall applies to your truck but it offers some valuable information about the Clock Spring.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/982.htm
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/982.htm
I had a feeling that the Clock Spring might be involved.. Does anyone know what a new one would cost?
I was just checking around for a Clock Spring, it appears that the aftermarket does not make a replacement Clock Spring with Cruise and Radio Controls for a 1999 model, so I am guessing this is a dealer item only???
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Kris
Thanks Swordfish. I will check that out.
Anyone care to take a stab at why I seem to have no power at the door locks? Can I use a jumper wire from the battery to the door switch or would that cause a problem?
Anyone care to take a stab at why I seem to have no power at the door locks? Can I use a jumper wire from the battery to the door switch or would that cause a problem?
Did something happen prior to this problem that could cause electrical Gremlins to break out?
You have a Highline (premium) Central Timer Module which is located inside the cab on the firewall behind the emergency brake pedal. It is responsible for a variety of controls. The intermittent wipers, remote access, door locks, honking the horn upon remote lock, some of the overhead console, etc. The list is quite long.
Fuses 6, 11, and 13 each feed power for different purposes into the Central Timer. You might double check each of those just because.
You have a Highline (premium) Central Timer Module which is located inside the cab on the firewall behind the emergency brake pedal. It is responsible for a variety of controls. The intermittent wipers, remote access, door locks, honking the horn upon remote lock, some of the overhead console, etc. The list is quite long.
Fuses 6, 11, and 13 each feed power for different purposes into the Central Timer. You might double check each of those just because.
I just saw that fuses G and H also feed power into the Central Timer.
Yes, pull the fuse and see if the metal piece inside is broke. You should be able to see through the red, yellow, or blue "shell". The fuses with Metal housings need to be tested with a multi-meter, or with a tester circuit. With the multi-meter, set the meter to ohms, place a probe at each metal prong, and you want to see 0 ohms. With the test light, connect the alligator clip to the positive battery, touch one of the metal prongs to the negative battery post, touch the other prong with the pointed end of the light tester. If the light comes on, the fuse is good.
Yes, pull the fuse and see if the metal piece inside is broke. You should be able to see through the red, yellow, or blue "shell". The fuses with Metal housings need to be tested with a multi-meter, or with a tester circuit. With the multi-meter, set the meter to ohms, place a probe at each metal prong, and you want to see 0 ohms. With the test light, connect the alligator clip to the positive battery, touch one of the metal prongs to the negative battery post, touch the other prong with the pointed end of the light tester. If the light comes on, the fuse is good.
The door lock switch was replaced? Could be the start of this. Check fuse 13.
I just saw that fuses G and H also feed power into the Central Timer.
Yes, pull the fuse and see if the metal piece inside is broke. You should be able to see through the red, yellow, or blue "shell". The fuses with Metal housings need to be tested with a multi-meter, or with a tester circuit. With the multi-meter, set the meter to ohms, place a probe at each metal prong, and you want to see 0 ohms. With the test light, connect the alligator clip to the positive battery, touch one of the metal prongs to the negative battery post, touch the other prong with the pointed end of the light tester. If the light comes on, the fuse is good.
Yes, pull the fuse and see if the metal piece inside is broke. You should be able to see through the red, yellow, or blue "shell". The fuses with Metal housings need to be tested with a multi-meter, or with a tester circuit. With the multi-meter, set the meter to ohms, place a probe at each metal prong, and you want to see 0 ohms. With the test light, connect the alligator clip to the positive battery, touch one of the metal prongs to the negative battery post, touch the other prong with the pointed end of the light tester. If the light comes on, the fuse is good.
The only indication that I had that something was amiss, is that the guy I bought the truck from stated he would blow a fuse on occasion.


