kevellis32

So I will want to do the same wiring that you did even though I am not replacing my HU right now?

wcbcruzer

Guys, why go through all the trouble of adding the factory amp to new set of speakers? Just get a new headunit to go with it. The factory amps and stock headunit will bring sound quality way down. A good headunit is well worth the money. It's also not fun pulling the plastics off the cab, especially the rears since you gotta remove the whole backseat. I say save yourself trouble and do it right the first time.

brianpgriset

You want to follow the pictures and instructions in my post if you keep the stock HU.

I wired my speakers differently because I have an after market HU. The reason I made the post was to show you how to do it. It was easy for me to do since I had all the stuff out and a digicam nearby so I whipped up that post.

JSPulliam21

You can just transfer the stock amps to the new front speakers, right? I have an aftermarket head unit, I can't spare the cash for a new one, amp, and speakers. What would be the best combination to get my sound back? New speakers and the stock amps, New speakers and head unit, or new speakers and an amp, or some other combo?

xtoyz17

What you guys are missing is that with a good head unit you DON'T need an amp for new speakers. They'd sound better with one, but they will still sound better than factory speakers without.

StevenAg03

you cannot replace the door speaker with just any speaker if you want to retain the factory amp. all 6 speakers in the infinity system are 2ohm speakers. most aftermarked head units cannot run 2ohm speakers. connecting them will blow the headunit. if you replace one spaker, you hace to replace them all.

wcbcruzer

Very good point. I forgot about that.

StevenAg03

forgot to add some other stuff. output from the factory headunit, as well as other headunits, is 4ohms. the amps in the doors convert it to 2ohms. wiring is as follows: left front and rear posative and negative wires run into the front left door and into the amp. there are six output wires from the amp in that door. two for the rear speaker, two for the front door speaker, and two for the tweeter. same goes for the right side. i believe all 10 speaker wires and amp power wires are part of the same plug. you do not have to run new wires to replace the factory speakers. use a voltmeter to figure out which wires are which.

when i replaced my speakers, all 6 are now aftermarket infinitys, i had new wires run from the headunit to the doors. there is some other stereo crap under the dash that i didnt want to deal with. as far as i know, there is nothing between the amp output and the rear door speaker.

for reference, i have the following speakers in my truck:
Infinity Reference REF1021T 1" dome tweeter mounted in the a-pillars
Infinity Reference REF9623I 6x9 3-way speaker in the front doors
Infinity Reference REF5022I 5 1/4 2-way speaker in the rear doors
JBL GTO1002D 10" 2ohm dual voice coil subs (2)
JBL GTO601.1D 600watt mono amp
Pioneer DEH-P6000UB headunit.

i have way too much into it, easily over $1000...

brianpgriset

This is excellent info. I didn't even think to check the resistance on the factory speakers.

On another note, I just finished putting in the exact same speaker setup, minus the subs, in my pickup, very good sound. I'll probably get a small sub in the near future to up the bass a bit, but and excellent setup.

JSPulliam21

OK. All I have to do is connect the front output from the head unit to the new after market front speakers, connect the rear output from the head unit to the stock rear speakers, and connect the tweeter output from the head unit to the tweeter? I think I followed the directions in post 21 correctly, Brian.

xtoyz17

StevenAG, what did you use for crossovers? I'm not well versed in the factory wiring but it seems like it would be wasted effort to installed good tweeters with no crossovers to make sure they get the right frequencies?

StevenAg03

If you replace the front speakers with 4ohm aftermarket ones you will have to bypass the factory amp. The factory door amps put out 2ohms and it will not work with a 4ohm speaker. I am sure you can retain the factory amp for the factory rear speakers and the factory tweeters, but if you are going through the trouble to replace the front door speakers, you might as well replace them all. My suggestion would be to do the following:

1) Remove front and rear door panel from driver side of truck. Remove a-pillar cover
2) Remove factory front/rear door speakers as well as factory tweeters.
3) Remove head unit.
4) Locate left front and rear speaker wires at head unit. Using voltmeter, find corresponding wires at multi pin connector in front door (this is the connector that plugged into the amp). Mark wires as found.
5) Repeat step 4 for rear speaker wires in rear door and for tweeter wires at the a-pillar.
6) Cut multi-pin connector from harness. Splice rear speaker wires from head unit to rear speaker wires from rear door together.
7) Splice front speaker wires from head unit, speaker wires to tweeter, and a short piece of wire together. The short piece of wire will be connected to the front door speakers.
8) Install new speakers where old speakers were.
9) Repeat for passenger side.

That being said I would run two new sets of wires from the head unit to the doors instead of using the factory wiring. There is a filter choke relay (or something like that) between the head unit and front door speakers. This thing was on the fritz in my truck and why I replaced all the speakers.




The tweeters I installed have a built in inline crossover.

JSPulliam21

I only have six wires coming into my amp from the door. Orange, brown, black, yellow, green, and blue. They don't match what Brian posted, or what my service manual shows. What's up with that?

StevenAg03

can you get some pictures?

JSPulliam21

Soon......