Howdy all,
I'm just kinda curios on how many of you's have had the brake line leading to the rear brakes rust through by the middle of the fuel tank. Mine blew yesterday, and I've heard of several others happening around here, so I'm just wondering if it happened to you.

 

yup, mine blew out there too. I put a new one from the block off the master all the way back. then you try to loosen the bleeder screws on the wheel cylinders and they are frozen. So, you end up buying the chevy 1 ton wheel cylinders to replace the old ones.

Turns into a project with a couple of trips to the parts store. I guess the smart thing to do is start at the bleeder screws, If they dont loosen buy new wheel clinders while you are at the store.

 

BTDT on my 1500. The line let go during hard braking towing a 2500 pound trailer. Thankfully there was no one in front of me, I was just slowing for a turn.
Replaced the entire line from the distribution block behind the left tire to the rubber line. I also just left the old one behind the tank. Fortunatley the bleeders were OK.

 

I have the bed off my truck right now to sand and paint everything under there. My lines were in horrible shape. I've known they were bad since I put the EGR brakes in about 6 months ago. Went to put the braided rear hose in, and decided it would be a bad idea unless I was prepared to replace the line being discussed here.

 

I replaced mine from the manifold block behind the driver side tire, all the way back with one piece. I had to drop the tank for a repair and noticed the rusted brake line along with the rusted fuel lines. Replaced those too. On my ram 1500 gasser, i just used pre-made brake lines and some unions and secured them to the frame rail with heavy black plastic wire ties. Didnt drop the tank. Wish i would of used that green coated line instead of the uncoated steel brake line. It's supposed to not rust as fast.

 

I started opposite of timmy , i went to put the chevy rear cylinders in , and ended up replacing EVERYTHING except that steel line by the fuel tank , and the combination valve at the front.

 

I ended up having to replace all the hard lines from the distribution block back, fronts and rears. I also replaced the flex lines, rotors, and calipers up front. I need to do the rear wheel cylinders this spring. Lots of rust on all the original hard lines.

Anthony

 

Yep.. Mine went on the way to work, just as i was getting on the highway... So right back off and home to get them fixed... Just had a new section sliced in... Probably should have sprung for the complete rebuild, but time and $$$$ were working against me...

 

Got the truck all fixed up, everything went fine. The bleeders came loose real easy after spraying a bit of PB blaster on em. That stuff's the greatest.

 

My rear just blew on the way home today...

Where did you guys end up getting new lines?

 

mine popped there too, on the way home from work. AAA is great
Seriously though, the tank came down easy with a couple motorcycle jacks and the repair itself was easy. I cheated and used a couple unions. Shops wont do those I hear due to liability concerns.
Good chance to install some 1-ton rear cyls while youre in there, since you KNOW the bleed screws are going to snap off anyhow. PB and a torch wouldnt even free mine up.
You can get line at pretty much any auto parts place. Buy a couple unions and some male ends in case you need an extra

 

The wheel cylinder #'s are these-- Napa -- 37337 ( Chevy 1 Ton)

 

Mine blew 2 years ago backing out of the driveway 5:00am in February 20 degrees out siphoning 30 gallons of fuel into five gallon buckets. Luckily it got to 50 degrees. Learned to use a flaring tool and 11 hours later.

 

Mine just blew! 95 degrees and 80 percent humidity. I'd take 20 degrees in Febuary anyday.

 

Mine are blown too. Any bolt-on pre-bent lines availble out there?