bentwings

'99 Dodge Quad Cab Dually rear door stuck.

I searched the data bank and found some older info.....doesn't look good for me.
I couldn't get the inner trim off as there is just too much stuff in the back.
So...I cut a hole in the lower door jam big enough to get my hand inside. I'll repair this later.
There is a double wall about an inch in side so it doesn't saw easily. I used a small cutoff wheel, hand saw and drill.

I can access the lower latch. The nuts are badly rusted but the actuating rod works fine. It moves full stroke so the release pieces are stuck. I pulled, pushed and pried but it is stuck solid. The top latch works fine.

The old threads said to tighten the nuts until they break off or torch them out. From the looks of mine the socket will round off the nuts before they break. I'm trying soaking in penetrating oils but it doesn't look promising. I hate to get in with a torch. I could probably use a small tip and heat the nuts. This does work but certainly will be tricky in the confined space. I have a plasma but even that will make a mess. It looks like I will have to cut the vertical part off so the door will slide over the stuck parts. Glad I'm not paying someone to do this.

In any case I think the latch will be destroyed. I just checked with a local dealer and the part is still available.....for $135 + tax. And there is one 20 miles from me.

Has anyone removed the latch and repaired it?

Any other suggestions are welcome.

fjb306

So I just figure out how to get my passenger side rear door to open - same problem. I tried drilling thru both steel walls and flooding with WD40 type solutions - no luck.

After roughly 1 year of pondering and finally got out a Sawzall with an 8" Bi-Metal blade and cut thru the striker plate. Sorry no other way if the latch mechanism is totally rusted up like mine was. I found replacement parts for roughly $75.00 (replacing both cargo door bottom latches). I am having problems with the striker plate - rust removed the serial numbers. In my case '98 2500 RAM I need a striker plate with just 2 attachment screws. I guess I'll need to go to Dodge to figure this one out.

Good luck! Yea, I am sure glad that I didn't spend $$ to have someone else look at this.

bentwings

Thanks for responding.

I was afraid I wouldn't hear good news.

I've got a saws all. Did you go at it from the front? Looks like that's the only way. It's been wet an entire week with WD 40 but no improvement.

I'll pick up the long blades. I'll have to check on availability of striker plates. I'm going to give the small tip torch a chance first. We do this a lot on trailer brake backing plates so I can focus it pretty well.

I should be able to bend the vertical part once the latch is loose.

fjb306

So yes, I was able to attack this from the front and amazingly I didn't tear up the bottom of the door much. You end of cut off the 2, 1/4" metal posts nearly flush with the Striker plate.

As far as I can tell, there is NO way to heat up anything - the rust is so sever inside the latch. I tired numerous times squirting release agents directly into the tiny holds you should be able to see.

The long bladed does bend in some strange ways - but that is exactly what you want it to do. I went thru 3 blades- getting the feel for how the saws all works and how the blade bends but after roughly 20 minutes - SUCCESS!

So the bottom cargo door latches are relatively easy to find, it's that striker plate that just could not be found. So I ended up going back to a Dodge dealership and amazingly the parts dept found the parts at a 'reasonable' price and I expect to receive everything now within 1 day. The only hard part left is to remove the severely rusted striker plate - the torques screws are badly rusted - I might hit them with a little heat first I'm thinking.

Good luck!

bentwings

Sorry to drag this one back but i thought it might be best to keep it in one place.
So, today I finally fixed this mess. I first cut a substantial hole thru both walls in the door jam. It had to be big enough to get a tool and/ or my have in. I first disconnected the operating rod in hopes it might work...nope. Then I was able to get a deep wall metric socket and 3/8 ratchet on the nuts. Luck was with me as all three came off. Then I took my trust Dremell tool with a flex shaft and the quick release cut off mandril and cut the studs off flush with the inside of the door. I then cut the actuation tower off flush.

I pried up on the door and jammed a long screwdriver between the latch and the bottom of the door. Prying up on the door I was able the get the door to ride over the remains of the studs and actuation tower. The door popped open leaving the latch frozen to the latch.

Then I took the 4 1/2 in with a cut off wheel and cut the latch nearly in half right at the striker. A little prying and the latch popped off.

I cleaned everything up and coated the new latch studs with never seize. I also greased up the latching parts thornily. Then I installed the latch and tightened the nuts. I popped the actuator rod on with the red connector. I slammed the door and opened it with the handle perfectly. Then I tried the inside release . No go. So I removed the opening tab and found the retainer on the cable broken. It won't stay on the opening handle. No big deal, I'm just going to leave it for now.

I checked the right side lower latch and it is pretty clean. It doesn't look like it will seize up any time some.