powering plug in devices
#1
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powering plug in devices
I want to eliminate the plug in power cords for a few items
sirius receiver, gps.
Can i just simply run a fuse link from hot, or do i need to use somthing to lower the voltage before hardwiring these?
sirius receiver, gps.
Can i just simply run a fuse link from hot, or do i need to use somthing to lower the voltage before hardwiring these?
#2
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geno's garage has a painless cirkit boss part #ppp-70207 that everyone should put on there truck it has 7 circuits 4 ignition hot and 3 full time hot . it makes a job like this easy
#4
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#5
With age comes the cage
So my plan of attack... cut and splice in some flat wire to remove the coiled (matching polarity and devices) these will all go under the floor console and be plugged into a device similar to this one ..and I will hard wire it to a switch..
Yeah I know it's kinda Micky Mouse but it should work..
http://www.target.com/Maxsa-3-Outlet...adapter&page=1
#6
With age comes the cage
That would be the input voltage at the cig lighter..all devices have different operating voltages.. Some of the voltage kick down circuitry is located in the jack itself.. You need to be really careful on this.. That is if you want you device to pass the smoke test
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thats what my concern is, if the gps is drawing say 5 amps,and the sirius is drawing 7 ampss ( these are just guesses ) , then do i need to regulate my power off the fuse block? or will just plain old power, with a good gound be fine.
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#8
With age comes the cage
The devices you listed should not draw that many amps...the product info book would have that info in it..
Each device should have an inline fuse or built in overload relay..
I am going to tie my 3 way block into the lighter circuit.. I will then install an inline switch as it is hot all of the time. (I prefer phones and radios to be on the hot circuit and not the ignition circuit)
Then all three of the plugs will go into the block.(link listed above) as each plug regulates the voltage / power needed for each device..
Hope this helps
#9
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I think what Colo is saying is that a lot of the VOLTAGES are different. Be sure to check on the device or adapter itself before removing any intermediary wiring. Nothing should draw too many amps, but if you put a lot of items on one fused circuit you might have a problem....
I installed a Belkin 6-port USB hub on my dash and powered it with a 4.5 volt converter under the dash. Now I power my phone and any thing else I can plug into my computer from this port. Saves on different types of power cords....
I installed a Belkin 6-port USB hub on my dash and powered it with a 4.5 volt converter under the dash. Now I power my phone and any thing else I can plug into my computer from this port. Saves on different types of power cords....
#10
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That would be the input voltage at the cig lighter..all devices have different operating voltages.. Some of the voltage kick down circuitry is located in the jack itself.. You need to be really careful on this.. That is if you want you device to pass the smoke test
In that case get a multiple cig jack adaptor. I've seen one at Radio Shack that makes one plug into three. Wire it in under the dash for a clean looking installation. In fact here's a four socket model from Amazon for only $9 http://www.amazon.com/Wagan-EL9139-4...8DR5PPPK86ZHHT
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anybody know the max draw off the existing cig lighter or auxillary, rather an wire back to the fuse box, i could tap one of those lines and drop the adapter right behind the dash there. assuming it wouldnt overload that source.
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come to think of it, im sure there is enough juice there, i used to power my light bar off that plug, that thing had to draw 5 x what my gps and sirius will.
#13
I would think that the power draw of the cig. lighter would be way more than any of the devices or all of the devices you want to power. Anytime you are heating a coil, as the lighter is, you are pulling a lot of current.
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