infidel

I don't mess with the sensor at all but it won't work if you use a spacer under the battery. The redtops will fit just fine without the spacer, you just have to be careful not to hit any wire looms with the hold down bolts under the batteries as the bolts will go in deeper. No big deal to push them aside if they look like they might get hit.

jrihani

The D31A batts that I have are taller than stock, so the temp sensor is still firmly contacting the battery.

I had that question when I was running "battery mats" underneath my stock batteries - would the mats act as "heatsinks" for the temp sensor. My solution was to cut a round hole so that the temp sensor was still on top of the battery mat and contacting the battery.

Commatoze

Well, you guys got me thinkin' now. I had a hot debate about a year ago with another member regarding common wet cell technology versus spiral wound electrolyte. Dollar for dollar, I still believe that the wet cell is superior, but my OEM batteries are almost shot and are now starting to leave yellowish acid deposits on the tops, and the terminals are starting to look nasty. Plus, I don't want to risk corrosion damage to the surrounding sheet metal and parts. So, I'm going to switch to Optimas, and give them a try. Problem is, you guys seem to be throwing a lot of different sizes, and top colors around.

Is it Red Top, Group 34/78?


Now, I like to listen to my ham gear in the truck while the wife shops, with occasional transmission or two. Will the Red Tops stand up to this, or would I be better off with the Yellow Tops?

The batteries will drop right in, yes? No, "modifications" to the tray of the battery case?

With an 80 mile round trip to work, I can't risk being stranded. It's a long walk to anything out where I live.

jrihani

Commatoze,

The 34/78 size has both the top and side terminals. Some people like this because it is easier to add accessories using the side terminals.

I bought the group 31 size (D31A yellow-top) because it was the only Optima battery that met or exceeded the factory reserve capacity (factory = 150 mins RC, D31A = 155 mins RC). RC only matters if you are going to run electrical equipment off of the truck without the alternator turning for an extended period of time. It is also more important in extreme northern states if you have to start the truck often without giving the alternator a chance to charge the batts. The grid heater will draw quite a bit of current.

My group 31 yellow-top Optimas did NOT just "drop right in", but the modifications were very, very minor. At the inside edges of the battery trays there are several small gussets. I only had to mill one off with my Dremel for the battery to sit perfectly flat (important to me on the drivers side so that the temp sensor was flush on the battery bottom). The passenger side slid in perfectly. The stock battery bolts are a bit too short. You could get some allthread stock to replace it. I work in a manufacturing facility and I had some friends out on the floor to weld in a piece of material. I then shot them with some spraypaint and I'm good to go.

After a LOT of research on this topic I am convinced that the group 34 Optima Red-tops (probably the most widely available model?) will do an excellent job in these trucks. If I ever trade up to a 3rd gen that is what I will almost certainly get.

So that is my long-winded answer to your question

If you want to get very creative with your battery box, have a lot of $$$ to spend, and want to baddest battery on the block, may I suggest the following:

http://www.odysseyfactory.com/docume...1-002_0605.pdf

1090CCA and 200 mins RC...pretty nice. WillySlover over on the TDR is running only one of these, it frees up room for his twins

Commatoze

Well thanks! I appreciate the advice. The side terminals are a great idea because I run a lot of my radio gear directly off the battery.

NHDiesel

I personally skip Optimas. I can buy a 1100 CCA battery from Sam's club for around $60, and a pair fit my truck perfectly. They will be my next battery. Right now I'm running a 900 CCA from WalMart. No prob lems at all, even up here in northern New England. For the price of an Optima, you can buy 2 or 3 standard batteries, and still have more CCA than the Optimas. Optima's work fine, but not 3 times the price worth (my opinion).

As to why I chose a Wal-Mart battery: There are only a few actual battery manufacturers, who label the same battery with different names depending on which store its going to. My Wal-Mart (Everstart) batteries were made by GNB, who is owned by Exide, and is the same battery as:
Action Pack
American
Everstart (888-387-8278 or contact local Wal*Mart store)
Autocraft (Contact local Advance store)
Champion (Contact local Sam's or Advance store)
Dominator
Dunlop
some Everstart, 888-387-8278 or contact local Wal*Mart store
High Energy
National
Omega (800-925-6278 or contact local Wal*Mart store)
Power Breed
Scorcher
Super Crank
Switch
Voyager (Contact local Sam's store)
Vortex

The same company makes the following:
Centura (Contact local K-Mart store)
Challenger
Some DieHard (non-Gold) (Contact local Sears store or www.sears.com)
Edge(Angler's, Arctic, Commander's, Cutting, Mariner's and Universal)
Full Timer
Heat Guard
Legend (800-538-6272 or contact local NAPA store or www.napaonline.com/)
Max
Mega Cell and Mega Cycle
Motorvator (Contact local K-Mart store)
Muscle Man
NASCAR Select
Nautilas and Nautilas Gold
Power GLX (800-538-6272 or contact local NAPA store or www.napaomline.com/)
Power-Tron
Prestolite (Contact local HiLo store)
Pro Start (Contact local Pep Boys store or www.pepboys.com/)
Quick Start
Sears (Contact local store)
Sonnenschein Prevailer
Select and Select Orbital
Sure Start (800-538-6272 or contact local NAPA store or www.napaonline.com)
Titan
Value-Life (Contact local Firestone store)

By the way, Optima Batteries is owned by Interstate Batteries. Many Interstate Batteries are made by Johnson Controls, who also makes the following batteries:
Non-sealed Diehard Gold (Contact local Sears and NTB store or www.sears.com/)
Dura-Last (Contact local Auto Zone store or www.autozone.com/)
Energizer (Contact local Blain's, Carport, Murray's, VIP, AFFES or Nexcom store)
Equalizer (Contact local Blain's, Carport, Murray's, VIP, AFFES or Nexcom store)
Eveready (Contact local Carport, Murray's, or Wal*Mart Canada store)
Inspira
Interstate Ameriton, Mega-tron, or MT-Plus (800-272- 6548 or www.interstatebatteries.com/)
Kirland Signature (800-331-9926 or contact local Costco)
Motorcraft Tested Tough (800-392-3673 or contact local Ford, Lincoln or Mercury dealer)
Power Connection (Contact local Blain's Farm & Fleet store)

Jim

Dr. Evil

Jim, Im running Group 31 (1000 cca) Commercials too...but the whole point (to me anyway) of the Optimas is that its sealed and wont drip battery acid down your fenders and onto your CC module. Sure, commercial batteries will work great...and the reason I chose them was for the sheer cold cranking amps and the great reserve capacity. if I did not have an ESPAR heater, I would most definitely be running the Optimas. I STILL wish I went the Optima route and may still trash these Dekas.

infidel

I personally wouldn't care if the Optimas were $100 more each than a lead acid battery.
To me not having to deal with corroded terminals and acid damage is worth every penny.

NHDiesel

There are many sealed off the shelf batteries. Thats why cars like the Miata can put them in the trunk, and several GM cars locate them under the rear seat. They couldn't do that with the old, vented batteries. And they still cost far less than the Optimas.

Jim

Dr. Evil

Hey its your $$ - I was just pointing out that the 1100 cca battery you were talking about likely isnt sealed (at least Ive never seen one that big thats sealed)....

jrihani

I agree with everything that is being said about the sealed nature of the Optimas and the peace of mind it brings - definitely worth the $$$ in my case.

Just one note FYI - the D31A group 31 yellow-tops I'm running in my truck do in fact have a vent on the top of the case. My understanding is that the Optimas are the AGM (absobant glass mat) type and not the true "dry cell" like the Odysseys. The note on my batteries say "will not vent under normal operating conditions". The note goes on to say that I can still mount the batteries in any position except inverted, so that bears out what I have experienced in the past four months - the batteries do not vent any appreciable amount.

My factory batteries were puking all kinds of garbage on a regular basis. I'll only know whether or not I made the right decision five years from now but, for now, I am a happy customer.

John

I SPEED

Not sure where your pricing out Optimas Jim, but the redtops can be had for less than $100.00 at Costco.

Timmay2

Not only that, but when they are drained completely, they come back to life. Unlike typical batteries that after a couple complete drains never really hold a charge like they used to... My truck oens are doing this to me now since i accidentally drained them once.. my electronics give a low voltage beep when cranking now.. used to be able to crank and not have them flinch.

regular batteries should be banned, and the world should be forced to use optimas.

Timmay2

Optima makes a ton of different batteries.. they do make ones designed for true inverted mounting, and also make 100% dry cell batteries as well.. not stocked at most retailers so they go unrecognized.

ride_a_hd

What are the 34U's for? They look identical to the 34/78 and are at Sam's Club for $102 each.
Thanks!
Dave