2nd Gen. Dodge Ram - No Drivetrain Discussion for all Dodge Rams from 1994 through 2002. Please, no engine or drivetrain discussion.

Looking to put a/c back in

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 25, 2010 | 08:03 PM
  #1  
gorms's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 23
From: SE Mass
Looking to put a/c back in

A/C has been shot since I got the truck 5 years ago, then the pully started squeaking so in a fit of rage I chopped the to lines going to it, ripped it out and put in a non a/c belt. It's fine at this time of year up here, but man it stinks in the summer. Sometimes I drive to the site I'm working at, and for the 2 hottest weeks this past summer my Jetta (cold a/c) was down and I had to drive my black truck with dark grey interior an hour and a half in very slow traffic on fresh black top...key word black. Temp on the overhead never got below 106 until almost home in the woods, all with typical high humidity.

So, here's what I've got...a compressor that's probably shot, not sure of that. I have the condensor radiator (and excuse my terms, probably wrong) sitting on the bench next to that. The reciever/drier is still attached, although I cut the line leading to it.

I guess my question is, is there a way splice the old cut lines back together? What kin of pressures do they run at? I can deal with buying a new compressor if the old one is indeed shot. I'd rather not buy new lines as I'm sure they aren't cheap? Where is a good place to get the lines?
Reply
Old Oct 26, 2010 | 12:41 PM
  #2  
Busboy's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,901
Likes: 37
From: On the Farm, Manitoba
Man you're asking a lot. Ok you can splice the old lines back together (old school fittings) would I recommend it? NO! every joint is a place to leak freon. Lets start at the beginning.
1. You need to know what went wrong with the compressor, you need to know if it chewed it's self up. if so everything will need flushing. It could have been something as simple as be compressor pulley bearing. Take the compressor and try to turn the very front of it, not the bit the belt turns on. If it turns then likely the compressor was ok. If not that doesn't mean the compressor chewed it's self up as the oil in the system attracts moisture if not sealed and it could be just rusted. If it will not turn you need a new compressor.
2. You will need a new receiver/drier and an expansion tube, this is in the line leading to the receiver, it's not replaceable so you must change the line.
3. You need to do something about the lines, a hydraulic shop may be able to help you if you take the pieces in. Honestly I would price the lines they are not as expensive as you may think. A wrecker is an alternative but they must come from a diesel truck there is not much the same gas to diesel.
4. You probably know that the weak link in the dodge truck AC system is the evaporator core that rots. If you don't replace it at the very least leave it on a vacuum for a long time to see if it drops ANY!!! If it drops ANY you DO have a leak somewhere.
5. Don't forget the oil in the compressor. the amount you add to the system will depend on what you change and if you have to flush the components.

That about covers it, good luck and I hope I was some help.
Reply
Old Oct 26, 2010 | 04:23 PM
  #3  
gorms's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 23
From: SE Mass
Haha I know I'm asking a lot, tring to be thorough! When it comes to pulling a tranny and ripping it apart no problem, but I don't think I've done ANYTHING to any a/c system besides recharge it.

"Old school" fittings meaning...flared lines? I don't even care if I have to recharge it every other week. I don't use a/c much unless its above 90 and humid, and even then I usually drive the Jetta. Hard to say no to 50 mpg's albeit a go cart in comparison. And yes the pulley is just squeeking, compressor turns by hand... a little resistance, but it's been hanging in the garage for more than a few months. I was unaware of the common problem with the evap core, so I'll check that out.

Still curious though, what are the pressures built by the compressor? I know the lines MIGHT not be all that much, but bottom line is I'm broke so I patch things that don't make it go or stop. Just looking at it I'd be confident in flaring the lines, as I did at least cut it with a tubing cutter so only 2 splices to make it all go back in. But I don't know if freon leaks easier...blah blah. Any advice for splicing methods are appreciated.

Very helpful, and thank you.
Reply
Old Oct 26, 2010 | 05:07 PM
  #4  
Busboy's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,901
Likes: 37
From: On the Farm, Manitoba
The "old school" fittings I'm talking about are the kind of special AC fitting that has three sharp barbs and push on with a little refrigeration oil, they are then secured with a common hose clamp. Long ago all after market AC hoses had these kind of fittings. There was also just a coupler for joining two ends together. They all came in the three sizes for the three sizes of hose used. I'm thinking a long established AC shop may have some kicking around.
Pressures? depending on ambient air temp and whether the truck is in motion and engine RPM, on the low side with compressor running/not running 25/ 80 psi on the high side 350/40psi ball park figures. Either way the line should be able to handle 600psi, I have seen 600psi in a blocked system without the line blowing.
You MUST change the receiver, the system has been sitting open way too long.

If there are any AG (farm type) AC people around they may still use them.
Reply
Old Oct 26, 2010 | 09:54 PM
  #5  
gorms's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 23
From: SE Mass
OK. That's up there for pressure. I'll check around for the correct fittings. Just one question, what happens to the receiver if left open? It has been taped shut with electrical tape, thats it. I plan on flushing everything before hand. A friend of mine works in a factory where they clean food processing equipment and has some pretty good stuff for cleaning out everything, works well on radiators/tranny lines. Sorry for so many questions, but its been a great help.
Reply
Old Oct 27, 2010 | 12:35 PM
  #6  
Busboy's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,901
Likes: 37
From: On the Farm, Manitoba
The receiver is filled with a desiccant to remove moisture in the system. The moist air saturates the desiccant. Leaving the vacuum pump on a long time will draw some moisture out but if it has been open for as long as yours has I doubt it would work properly, the result is poor cooling or in remote cases the desiccant bag can break contaminating the system and plugging the expansion tube.
Remember the hydraulic shops they may be your fastest fix for the lines.
Reply
Old Oct 27, 2010 | 03:43 PM
  #7  
gorms's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 23
From: SE Mass
Excellent, now I know. There is a heavy truck parts place near by with a decent hydraulic shop, I'll see what they offer. I at least have time on my side for this, which never seems to be the case. Thanks for the help Busboy.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
barngal6
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
2
Jul 5, 2009 06:49 PM
pappyman
Suggestions, Comments and Site Questions
3
May 28, 2005 06:37 AM
JoshPeters
General Diesel Discussion
17
Apr 3, 2005 08:13 AM
Stevenc
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
2
Oct 10, 2004 10:16 PM
2500TurboDodge
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
11
Jun 2, 2004 08:21 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:15 PM.