I have a 95 12 V with a 96 or 97 12 valve replacement BUS engine in it. I was told thay MY 95 had an intake heater. Not sure if 96-97 12 valves had intake heaters or glow plugs.

Anyway there is my history, here is what it does.

1) When it's much below 30 degrees F it's real hard to start. The "WAIT TO START" Light does not come on, the engine WARNING LIGHT comes on, but it's dim, the TACK does not work for about an hour and the transmission won't go into high gear. I guess it has to heat up.

2) Just ramdomly, not temp related, usually just after starting, the ENGINE WARNING LIGHT comes on and the WAIT TO START light comes on. It's while it is in park and they go off when I put it in drive.

What does that sound like?

I'm thinking the intake heater is not working causing the hard cold weather starting.

Can someone tell me what to check on the intake heater and what could cause the other problems.

Thanks

 

As far as I know, all Cummins 5.9's use grid (intake) heaters, not glow plugs. The relays that apply power to the grid heaters don't last forever. You can monitor the grid heater operation by using a multi meter to see if power is being applied to the grids. If not, then check the power input to the grid heater relays. You should have 12 volts on the supply side of the relay (we're talking about the large wires here) whenever the key is on. The large wires from the relay to the grids should have 12 volts when you first turn on the key. They'll cycle on and off. While you're there, you should be able to hear/feel the relay click on and off. If not, check that relay coil input (smaller wire) is cycling when you first turn the key on. If you don't have a meter, you could probably use some 'hands on' help from someone who does.
HTH

 

The heater grid relays might need replaced. You can replace them with Ford starter relays (much Cheaper). Do a forum search and you can probably get the part numbers. I don't have the numbers handy. I can't help you on the check engine light.

 

No glow plugs, ever. Let us hope it is always that way...... The Grid Heater is built into the Intake plate on a 12V, does yours have one? They probably would have had to transfer it when they swapped engines, I don't think the Bus engine had them standard.

Bet they have your ESS ( Engine Speed Sensor just outside of its sensing range, and it requires expansion of the balancer to start reading. You can check and adjust it to .049/.051. A business card is a close, quick way to get in range. That should also fix your O/D TCC lockup issue, and believe it or not, your charging issue as all of these are dependant on a tach signal to tell the PCM the engine is running.

Not sure, but I would fix the Tach signal and see if it goes away.

I would say you are correct about the starting, though mine is not real hard to start until it gets into the teens without GH operation. She smokes and chugs a bit in the 30's though.

You can check for operation by using the VOM on the grids, the PCM pulls in the ground on the solenoids in your year, you can find teh solenoids on the drivers side fenderwell, track the GH wires back, 2 large wires go from the GH to the solenoids, then 2 large wires to the battery. The 2 smaller terminals are +12V continuous and Ground thru the PCM. With your voltmeter on the GH terminals and ground, ground out the GROUND side of teh small terminals and check for solenoid operation.

And yea, Furd starter relays are cheaper, but you must make SURE you get the isolated variety or physically isolate them, otherwise they will be onl all the time. I bought my OEM Solenoid from RockAuto.com for something like 53 bucks, they are a standard brand RY441, and come with the OEM Mopar part number right on them.

 

Everything you ever wanted to know about the grids> http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/trouble...niford_htr.htm