infidel

According to Hohn's math 23% better. Every 3500 owner who I've installed the GM cylinders for has been impressed, 2500 folks very impressed.

kandgo

I am a 2500 owner that will testify that I am really impressed, as well as the few I have changed out are happy. Goodluck and Thanks again Bill for the mod. Rick

gcookieman

The best money i have ever spent. Didnt realize how much till i locked the ffth wheel on man what a dif.
Mod of the year cookieman

signature600

I didn't really notice a difference, but my brakes are probably more screwed up than they could help!

gregway

Like I said in a previous post, I am doing mine tomorrow. Hopefully the shoe replacement and the flushing goes well too!

Copenhagenjunkie

My rear brakes work, finally!!!! What a difference. I've had the same shoes since I bought the truck in Oct '99 with 68k on the ticker and have been adjusting them constantly. Maybe they will finally wear out instead of the fronts.

Thanks for the info.

Sidewinder

Checked with NAPA and they said they have two versions of the SAME wheel cylinders:

4637337 $11.49 (website price) TSW4637337

and

37337 $41.49 (website price) UBP37337

The second number is supposed to be the "premium" one. What would be the difference in a premium wheel cylinder?

See this link

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...t_number=37337

infidel

The brake expert who originally told me of this mod said to use the cheap ones, that there is really no difference except price. I installed some of the expensive ones for a guy who said he'd rather "Buy American". On close inspection I can't tell the difference between the two and both are made in the US. They even weigh exactly the same.

Then my buddy who owns the local Napa clued me in on the real deal in the difference between the two. Professional mechanics like to use the more expensive ones because most mark the price to the customer up a set percentage. 10% of $41 is four times more profit than 10% of $11.

Sidewinder

Thanks for the info! I won't tell anyone the secret.
I'll buy the cheap ones!!

SHARPMACHINE

first) don't forget that our friends at napa (owners) make money on a % base as well, but theirs is wwway more than 10%. just my .002


second) has anyone driven in snow and ice with this mod and if so was their any differance?


third) if my truck has anti-lock brakes, which tires do they affect and will this mod affect the anti-lock brakes?




thank-you

infidel

They work better on ice than the stockers because they keep you straighter than the stock system that over uses the front brakes.

They will effect your ABS the first time you use them since you are most likely used to brakes that only marginally work. After you get used to the lighter touch required for the larger cylinders you will have no problem. I have them on trucks with 4 and rear wheel ABS, no problem with either.

Got Smoke?

Well while getting new tires installed this weekend the tech found that I needed a new rear axle seal on the passenger side of my truck. I figure while me and a buddy are changing it NEXT weekend (can't miss the Extravaganza!) I will try these wheel cylinders.

Dodgeman01 installed them on his truck and told me they made a WORLD of difference on his 94 2500. I'm wondering how they will do on mine. I bought a set of pad's the other day thinking my front pads needed replacement at just a glance.....pulled the calipers off and I've got quite a bit left to go.

Man by the time I get all these new brake parts on I better have my seat belt on when I hit the pedal for the first time!

RickCJ

The cheap wheel cylinders are rebuilt and the expensive ones are new!!

jimk

Sir I have replaced the cylinders with the one ton chev units. The shoes are adjusted and appear to be in good shape. I have yet to have the rear shoes lock, and I dont think that I am getting what I should out of the rear brakes. Is there any thing else that I can do, by pass a valve or some thing? I just wont the darm thing to stop, thanks for any ideas, Jim

AlpineRAM

Jim- If you are shure that there's no air in the system anymore you can try the following. There is a rod from the axle to the brake proportioning valve. This valve adjusts the amount of pressure to the rear brakes according to the load on the axle by measuring how high the vehicle rides. If you make the rod longer it assumes that you have some load in the bed.
You can also take the rod off and zip tie the lever of the proportioning valve in the upmost position for testing. If the brakes don't lock then there must be something wrong (Air in the system, glazed brake shoes, ....) . If it works but braking is too harsh you can cut the rod in two and insert a turnbuckle with a jam nut to be able to adjust the length of the rod. This gives you an adjustable rear brake.

Hope that helps

AlpineRAM