Electrical Issues
Electrical Issues
I have a 1997 3500. The charging system went haywire. First intermittently overcharging then it quit altogether. I researched and installed an external voltage regulator. Now, at the battery I read approx. 14.6VDC. This is a touch high but it stays there even when I rev the engine. I would be happy at this point, but at the dash the volt gauge appears to read 15.5VDC or so - it is hard to tell because there are no numbers between 14 and 18. The GEN light also either stays on or comes on after 30 seconds give or take. I have checked everything I can think of. When I first hooked it up I had the wires backward at the v-reg and it still overcharged. I changed that and it started working. I have the 12VDC power source coming from the ASD (automatic shut down relay). I mounted it to the inner fender and it seemed to have a good ground. I've run a jumper to the battery and to the alternator case with no change. As I said it seems to work fine, I've just never seen a volt gauge read higher than actual and I'm guessing that is why the GEN light stays on. If any of you have done this conversion and have any ideas for me I would appreciate it tremendously.
14.6 at the battery with engine running is about right for a healthy alternator and working regulator.
We call these "12-volt" systems, when they are really more like 14.8-volt.(all automotive systems, not just ours)
We call these "12-volt" systems, when they are really more like 14.8-volt.(all automotive systems, not just ours)
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From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
The Chrysler OEM regulator is much better quality than most aftermarket ones. It has temperature compensation and improve RFI (noise) protection. Junk yard is good source. Get two while at it, just to compare outputs.
Light on is probablly PCM not seeing correct response inside.
Light on is probablly PCM not seeing correct response inside.
Last edited by dozer12216; Oct 14, 2008 at 05:42 AM. Reason: add
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