True, but I'm using 7k axles because in the event I put most of the weight of the trailer on one axle, it doesn't fail.

So there's even a third scenario to my issue.

A) Run 16" centered rims on the truck and trailer and have the truck tire's stick out a bit..

B) Keep the 17" rims, and buy 4 identical rims for the trailer and run spacers to achieve 0 offset

C) OR run the 235/85/16 XPS Ribs on the trailer because the outer diameter is the same as the 265/70/17's on the truck. And then use the trailer spare for the truck when needed.

 

Another thing to consider is wheel stud diameter. I looked at using my old 2nd gen 8x165 steel wheels on my 12K flatbed trailer and the wheel studs were different size, not to mention the hub centric issue. The studs on the truck were 9/16 and the trailer were 1/2. Although the tapered nuts did fit, I couldn't tell if the 1/2 lug nut was hitting the drum at torque or was just "squeezing" the wheel to the drum. I didn't feel comfortable using that setup. The offset did work (with slight clearance) but still decided to stick to the stock trailer wheels. Never checked to see if the holes in the trailer wheels (for studs or hub) were large enough to fit over the studs and hub on the truck.

 

Good point. I see 8x6.5 trailer hubs with 9/16 studs, but there designed for 17.5" trailer rims..

But here's a trailer rim that excepts both 1/2" and 9/16

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Tir...r/AM20766.html

 

Different lugnuts make the difference. If the wheel holes are large for the studs, use a 'bulge' style nut.

I had wheels for 1/2" studs on my F350. The stock ford 9/16" nuts worked fine.