Co-Pilot Door Loose
Co-Pilot Door Loose
Hey Guy's, my 95 2500 passenger door makes a clunk noise when it hits a bump once in awhile and with a good head wind I can air leaking past the seals, never seems to leak water though. I've looked in the service manual but can't seem to find any info. How do I adjust the door to make it suck in tighter to the cab? I have checked for excessive play in the upper and lower hinges but they are tight. Thanks
Tim
Tim
Could be no one knows what a "Co-pilot" is, it's been FO's for a very long time.
. Anyway.. roll down your window and open the door. Sit on the seat facing the door, take hold of the door frame at the top put your foot against the door at the bottom of the opening then pull in on the door frame bending the door frame inwards a little.
. Anyway.. roll down your window and open the door. Sit on the seat facing the door, take hold of the door frame at the top put your foot against the door at the bottom of the opening then pull in on the door frame bending the door frame inwards a little.
Could be no one knows what a "Co-pilot" is, it's been FO's for a very long time.
. Anyway.. roll down your window and open the door. Sit on the seat facing the door, take hold of the door frame at the top put your foot against the door at the bottom of the opening then pull in on the door frame bending the door frame inwards a little.
. Anyway.. roll down your window and open the door. Sit on the seat facing the door, take hold of the door frame at the top put your foot against the door at the bottom of the opening then pull in on the door frame bending the door frame inwards a little.
agreed, usual method of tightening door seal, especially if hinges are tight, you dont need to bend the window frame, just tweek it a little
if you monkey around with the hinges alignment you will more than likely make it worse, and have a door that does not shut well.
if you monkey around with the hinges alignment you will more than likely make it worse, and have a door that does not shut well.
If the door lines up with the body lines good and the door closes without hitting (check around the striker for signs of the door sagging) then I wouldn't adjust it. If not, you can adjust it by loosening the bolts on the door side slightly, I like to leave the bottom most bolt tight, helps keep from over-adjusting. Mark where it was with a pencil and go in small increments if you need to. Also check the weather stripping to see if any of it is collapsed/folded over. Good luck.
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Passenger side hinges don't usually drop, unless its a work truck and got a lot of use.
The standard way of fixing the misalignment is to "tweak" the window pillar in as described. It'll go a little better if you support the door at the bottom with some cribbing so you aren't fighting the suspension.
If you search something like "door seal leaking" you will find the same advice with many positive results and grateful comments.
Thanks Guys, Sorry for the negative reply to "Busboy" I've been a member of a motorcycle forum much like this for a long time....sometimes over there when a newbie asks a question he gets a stupid reply from some idiot that's had too many beers. The door hinges are fine and the door does not sag at all, it simply won't suck up to the cab like the driver door does. I can push on it from the outside and see this. I'll look in my manuals again. Have a good weekend
Tim
Tim
The striker is adjustable, and sometimes moving it in a bit is all that's required to pull the door into the body a bit tighter. If you go too far though, the door, when closed, will have the rear edge below flush with the body.
I have also adjusted many doors by pulling in the top of the window frame like was explained above. It can help a lot with wind noise, and I believe it to be an acceptable repair.
Have a good look at the way the door sits now, hopefully you can see where it doesn't fit the body tightly, and can decide on where it leaks and where to adjust it. To see if the weatherstrip is compressing properly, shut a five dollar bill in the door, in different locations, then pull it out. You should feel decent drag on it with the door closed. If there's a spot where it'll pull out with no drag, that may be a leak spot.
I have also adjusted many doors by pulling in the top of the window frame like was explained above. It can help a lot with wind noise, and I believe it to be an acceptable repair.
Have a good look at the way the door sits now, hopefully you can see where it doesn't fit the body tightly, and can decide on where it leaks and where to adjust it. To see if the weatherstrip is compressing properly, shut a five dollar bill in the door, in different locations, then pull it out. You should feel decent drag on it with the door closed. If there's a spot where it'll pull out with no drag, that may be a leak spot.
As has been mentioned by some of the other posters because it's the passenger door it's unlikely to have worn out the hinge and if the door fits flush with the body when closed and the seal is in good shape, it is usually the window frame that needs a tweak. It could have got out of position by something as simple as someone using the door frame to get into the truck or perhaps an accident or even just the repeated slamming of the door over time.
The striker is adjustable, and sometimes moving it in a bit is all that's required to pull the door into the body a bit tighter. If you go too far though, the door, when closed, will have the rear edge below flush with the body.
I have also adjusted many doors by pulling in the top of the window frame like was explained above. It can help a lot with wind noise, and I believe it to be an acceptable repair.
Have a good look at the way the door sits now, hopefully you can see where it doesn't fit the body tightly, and can decide on where it leaks and where to adjust it. To see if the weatherstrip is compressing properly, shut a five dollar bill in the door, in different locations, then pull it out. You should feel decent drag on it with the door closed. If there's a spot where it'll pull out with no drag, that may be a leak spot.
I have also adjusted many doors by pulling in the top of the window frame like was explained above. It can help a lot with wind noise, and I believe it to be an acceptable repair.
Have a good look at the way the door sits now, hopefully you can see where it doesn't fit the body tightly, and can decide on where it leaks and where to adjust it. To see if the weatherstrip is compressing properly, shut a five dollar bill in the door, in different locations, then pull it out. You should feel decent drag on it with the door closed. If there's a spot where it'll pull out with no drag, that may be a leak spot.
Will a ONE work?






