So, this problem has been going on for a few months now. Basically, no shudder if I brake hard. Moderate braking causes a shudder in the front end when coming to a stop, not at speed.

How much of a pain is it to change the ball joints on a 98? All of my steering components are a year old or less, and my track bar has been replaced with a Thoren Fab unit.
The drivers side hub has been replaced in the last year and a half, and I had similar symptoms then. Neither wheel exibits any looseness, like it did when the hub went out.

Any suggestions? Thanks a million, this thing is driving me nuts.

 

It was rotors that fixed my problem on my 97 a few months ago. If I just tapped the brakes I got a death wobble. My rotors were cracked and warped. Here is a thread I posted pics and install details:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ight=front+hub

Dave

 

While I certainly could have bad rotors, something else would have caused it. I currently run Powerslot cryo treated rotors, so hopefully they are fine.

If it were the rotors, wouldn't the shudder be at any speed, and no matter how hard I pushed on the pedal?

 

Just as an update, it certainly is the rotors. After looking at them, they are slightly warped. In addition, there is a ridge outside of the brake pads, that is very noticible.
These rotors don't have that many miles on them, nor have they been abused.

 

Sticking calipers?

 

I suppose that is possible as well. I purchased the calipers, pads and rotors at the same time, so if one part is bad, others could be bad. I'm still waiting on a response from Powerstop.

The truck does tend to pull when braking a bit...not a ton though.

 

I got the same issue, pulsing when I brake (slight pressure) big ridge on outside of rotor...

Is there something I'm missing from my list??

Front

Rotors
Pads
Calipers
lines
anti-seize
several choice words

 

Take a good look at your tires also, if you are seeing a non-typical wear pattern, this could be a sign of worn out steering parts. A good shop should inspect it for free.
If you have driven thru water after heating up the brakes, this will warp your rotors regardless of the quality. Also, a sticky caliper will cause a lot of heating that is detrimental to a smooth stop. Keep them lubed with a good hi-temp grease and the more often the better, especiallly in wetter climates.
Sometimes the aftermarket parts aren't really any better than the stockers. Make sure you are getting the quality and warranty you demand.

Kurt

 

My tires are wearing evenly. All of my steering components have been replaced in the last two years, and are greased on a regular basis. I have not greased the calipers since I installed them, however. Both rotors have ridges on them though.
It has been a week now, and I have had no response from Powerstop.

 

That's not good. My brake guy told me that unless I've got money to waste the stock stuff should be fine for my applications. I was really surprised at how much better the brakes are on my 01 than the 94 2500 my dad owns.

You might try the Chevy rear brake cylinders for your 98. I've read a lot of threads that praise them for improving the braking for not a whole lot of money. My front rotors have the ridge you describe and are about 60% worn so I am due for new brakes pretty soon, however I am not having any other issues with them.

Kurt

 

What type of pads are you running?
I've seen many ceramic pads that are too hard, the rotor wears instead of the the pad.
Too hard of a pad could also cause shutter.

 

I am using the pads recommended by powerstop, Hawk HD pads.

I will be installing the 30mm wheel cylinders in the next month or so.

 

Alright, I just got off of the phone with Powerstop.

How long are OEM rotors supposed to last? The OEM ones lasted well over 120K on this truck, and when I replaced them with Cryo treated rotors three years ago the replacements were still in decent shape.

Three years and 30K miles is supposedly "worn out", according to the manufacturer. I was offered a good discount on replacement rotors, which is about 30% or so, but still. According to their site, the cryogenically treated rotors are supposed to "Outlast OEM Rotors".

Powerstop site

I'm not trying to blast the manufacturer here, but what do you all think? Has anyone had similar problems?

 

If you go to after market parts and pay more than you would for stock I would expect as good or better life span. I read all the time about how good this or that part is but I usely (sp) go with stock or NAPA. When I was younger I had to have big name, big buck parts but now I know better sometimes you don't get what you pay for. Maybe if you contact them again and tell them about this thead and the bad publicity they are getting they may want to do more for you.

Floyd

 

Well, I understand what you're saying, and I may go that way Impala. I have to have called 30 different shops, and not one will turn the rotors due to them being slotted. The rotors are not out of spec (as far as thickness), so if I could get them turned, they would be fine. This is just a total waste of money, to have even bought these rotors in the first place.

Powerstop says that the rotors can be turned, but obviously no shops are willing to turn them.

I have found one shop that is willing to "try", but offers no guarantee that they can do it. What a PITA.