Brakes and rotor replacement info....
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Brakes and rotor replacement info....
I just replaced the brakes, rotors, and calipers on my new to me 95. I've done this before on my other truck a couple years ago.
Wanted to put some info on here to help others out so they won't have to do as much running around as I did.
The axle nut socket is 1 11/16" I couldn't find this size anywhere.....napa said they would have to order it. I needed it the same day. I ended up finally finding the socket at Sears for $24.00 after taxes. It's 3/4 drive and I used a 3/4 drive impact to get the nut off. I torqued it back to 175 ft lbs with a 3/4 drive torque wrench (bought at harbor freight earlier this year around $75 for another job) I installed new stainless cotter pins....had them laying around in a marine cotter pin kit, so why not.
I used a brass drift and BFH to put the studs back in the new rotor/hub. If you have ever changed your rear drums I recommend keeping one of the old drums. You can put the new rotor/hub combo on top of the drum face down and drive in the studs into the holes on the drum.....all the holes line up perfect since it's the same bolt pattern and works as a nice steady table -- also helps keep the studs aligned when driving them in.
I also took a little time and bent the tabs out away from the rubber brake lines going to the calipers. I bent them out and sprayed with PB blaster until they moved back and forth freely. These rust up and squeeze on the rubber sometimes making the caliper stick. There are 3 brackets on each side. I think mine were definately squeezing too much on the rubber line.
Wanted to put some info on here to help others out so they won't have to do as much running around as I did.
The axle nut socket is 1 11/16" I couldn't find this size anywhere.....napa said they would have to order it. I needed it the same day. I ended up finally finding the socket at Sears for $24.00 after taxes. It's 3/4 drive and I used a 3/4 drive impact to get the nut off. I torqued it back to 175 ft lbs with a 3/4 drive torque wrench (bought at harbor freight earlier this year around $75 for another job) I installed new stainless cotter pins....had them laying around in a marine cotter pin kit, so why not.
I used a brass drift and BFH to put the studs back in the new rotor/hub. If you have ever changed your rear drums I recommend keeping one of the old drums. You can put the new rotor/hub combo on top of the drum face down and drive in the studs into the holes on the drum.....all the holes line up perfect since it's the same bolt pattern and works as a nice steady table -- also helps keep the studs aligned when driving them in.
I also took a little time and bent the tabs out away from the rubber brake lines going to the calipers. I bent them out and sprayed with PB blaster until they moved back and forth freely. These rust up and squeeze on the rubber sometimes making the caliper stick. There are 3 brackets on each side. I think mine were definately squeezing too much on the rubber line.
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