I have been fighting this for a while. The left front outer pad wears out in around 10,000 miles. The truck doesn't really ever pull hard to that side, but the outer pad wears down to the sensor. I have replaced the calipers. I recently replaced the hoses, and the solid brake lines on the front. (Only because they rusted and leaked). I checked the rotors with an IR gun, and the left is around 40 degrees hotter than the right. It still stops straight, but I can't help but think something is wrong. Any thoughts? I can put another caliper on it, but the old one seems fine.

 

Usually this is caused by the caliper sticking on the pins, and not sliding back after the brake is released.
I had this problem quite often when there was either rust (old saddles) or paint (refurbished) was in the hole where the pins should slide. Removing the rubber and cleaning this up, then re-installing with plastilube fixed it.

 

I haven't seen a 2nd gen Dodge in years, but I assume the disc brakes are just like all the others, in that the caliper slides on the fixed steering knuckle to engage the pads against the rotor...When the brake pressure is released, there should be enough slack in the sliding part of it to return the outer pad to a position in which it does not contact the rotor...Your caliper is likely binding against the steering knuckle it's attached to...The attaching hardware is probably both metal and rubber and needs to be lubricated...Check that, and see if it's the source of the binding......Ben

EDIT: Alpine Ram beat me to it...

 

Thanks for the answers. I'll pull the wheel and the caliper and look closely for anything unusual. The saddles are the original ones.

 

Pull the calipers. With the engine off, pump the brake pedal to push out the caliper pistons as far as they can go just before they pop out. (Important - DONT push the brake pedal any farther down than you would during normal braking conditions otherwise you will shove the master cylinder shaft plunger too far into the rough section of the master cylinder and cause damage to the plunger...which can cause failure)

Then with the pistons fully extended, using an old brake pad, place it in the caliper like normal with it spanning across the caliper pistons. With a C-clamp, slowly push on the old pad and push the pistons all the way back in place until the bottom out. You're pushing them in together and at the same time...

Then pull out the caliper pins and with a rag or paper towel, clean out the old grease and gunk from the rubber boots and make sure the pins aren't corroded either. When everything is clean, apply a nice amount of synthetic grease in the rubber boots and coat the pins, and reassemble them in the boots. Wipe off any excess grease outside the boots so it doesnt contaminate the rotors or pads.

Then while the calipers are not mounted up, put the brake pads in their place on the metal guides on the caliper mounts. Make sure the pads move easily and freely as they would when they'd move with the calipers. If they stick or dont fit perfect then use a file and remove whatever metal needed on the pad where they contact the metal slides until they move freely.

Then put everything back together, and again with the engine off, repeatedly pump the brake pedal (as you would normally pushing the brake pedal) until the calipers reset and the pedal stiffens up. Then start the truck and give it a test drive...

From time to time I use a laser temp tool on my brakes to makes sure nothing is ever dragging, and the fronts will be in the 100* F range (give or take 25*) after I pull in the garage coming home, and no heavy exertion on the brakes coming down the street.

If that doesnt work for you then you likely have a bad front brake hose on that side of the truck.