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Batteries Go Dead After Sitting A Couple Of Days

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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 08:16 PM
  #1  
D150's Avatar
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Batteries Go Dead After Sitting A Couple Of Days

This has been and off and on problem for quite a while. If I drive it every day, no problem. There are a pair of year old batteries, and the alternator is two years old. I did a standard draw test, and the test light lit dimly, and pulsed. The radio had a pulsing noise as did the CTM. I disconnected both and the noise went away, as did the draw. I hooked both back up, and the noise continued. I pulled the fifty amp battery fuse and the light went out, and the two components stopped making their noise.
Is there an online wiring diagram, somewhere that I can learn how this truck is wired ? Another thing, when I reconnect a battery cable, with both off, there is a pretty good spark.

Thanks
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 11:16 PM
  #2  
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From: lyman, utah
Originally Posted by D150
This has been and off and on problem for quite a while. If I drive it every day, no problem. There are a pair of year old batteries, and the alternator is two years old. I did a standard draw test, and the test light lit dimly, and pulsed. The radio had a pulsing noise as did the CTM. I disconnected both and the noise went away, as did the draw. I hooked both back up, and the noise continued. I pulled the fifty amp battery fuse and the light went out, and the two components stopped making their noise.
Is there an online wiring diagram, somewhere that I can learn how this truck is wired ? Another thing, when I reconnect a battery cable, with both off, there is a pretty good spark.

Thanks
i have a wiring diagram for a 95 ford powerstroke ....is that what what you.re looking for?
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 09:45 AM
  #3  
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From: Montana
I have the wiring diagram for a Honda Accord.
It doesn't help much if you don't tell us what kind and year your truck is.
You probably have to replace the CTM though, they fail quite often.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 11:59 AM
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From: Celina, TX
Don't troubleshoot it with a test light. I had the same issue that you were describing when I used my test light because my multimeter wasn't working. The light would pulse and I could hear the clicking under the dash. I pulled fuses and found the one that killed the clicking and figured my problem was on that circuit. I picked up new fuses for my multimeter and tested again and found that the clicking no longer happens and then I was able to find my draw.

I think the issue is that the test light wasn't carrying enough load to allow some relays to close, which caused the clicking as it tried repeatedly to close. When I watched the amp draw on the meter, the draw was high when first connected, then it fell off.

Here's the thread I had running while I was troubleshooting...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-t263607.html

Last edited by AggieJustin; Mar 30, 2010 at 12:00 PM. Reason: Added link to old thread
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