Hey Guy's I need your input on this one. Attempted to change ball joints but could not budge the bearing hub. Tried penetrating oil,love taps with big *** hammer, a little heat, but could not move it at all. We were afraid of damaging the bearings in the hub. Does anyone know what the bearing number and seal numbers are for the front hub assembly 2002 4X4, We were told by auto parts store that they are OEM only which I'm sure I can get bearings if I knew the numbers. If I had the bearings I won't be too afraid of damaging the old ones, and get the hubs off. Your help will be greatly appreciated. I really don't want to take to a dealer if you know what I mean

 

I have heard that the bearings have numbers on them, but you can't buy them as they are licensed to Dodge only.
There is a secret to breaking those hubs loose.
1) leave the axleshaft nut tight so the bearing won't come apart.
2) remove the 4 hub-to-knuckle bolts from behind.
3) purchase a bolt with the same threading as the hub bolts, but an inch or 2 longer
4) thread that bolt into one of the hub holes several threads.
5) use a heavy metal spacer, such as an impact socket to fill the gap between the bolt head and the end-yoke of the axle tube.
6) start the truck and use the power steering to break loose the hub. Only turn the wheel VERY SLIGHTLY or you will bend/break the bolt.
7) repeat on the other side of the hub. You will be impressed.

 

Yup, what he said. Bolt trick work, but be GENTLE.

Ed

 

I had to change the whell bearing on one side and it took a lot of work. What ended up working is the bolt trick that was mentioned (I used stock bolt) and once the power steering was trying it's best to budge it a friend gave it a beating with a 8lb BFH. Back and forth back and forth it finaly worked. I didn't have to keep the old hub because I was changing it so I wasn't to concerned about damage to the hub. I still have the old one so I can see if I can change the bearings so I can do the other side that way. I was told to use a 20ton press or bigger to change the bearings in the hub if you can get them. This was after I tried the 5ton with heat at work and did nothing but waste time.

 

Iwould think that there a Tapered Bearing and races. I caan't see how they can be so special.

 

I've heard of people getting replacement bearings for them. Also, Napa and Checker auto have the complete hub assembly.

 

An air hammer on the back side of the hub worked for me , the bolt trick I'll have to try next time. Make sure that when you put them back together that you use some anti-seize compound on the mating surfaces.

 

Hey Torquefan, If you leave the axle nut tight how can you budge the bearing housing??? Doesn't the nut retain the load on the bearings and on the spline shaft.???? Im confused

 

Take the axle nut off.
Take the 4 bolts out from the back side
Take off the ABS wire if you have it

Get a big hammer and get after it.

You buy the bearing as a unit. Hub and ALL.

 

The nut just keeps the shaft attached to the hub/bearing. The shaft is free to come out of the axle tube while still attached to the hub.

 

I should add: as soon as you get the hub broken loose from the knuckle, you can remove the shaft nut if you have no reason to remove the shaft.

 

Stonewalldiesel,

I feel your pain. It took me three hours on the first side and one hour on the other just to seperate the hub. I tried the bolt spacer trick but only bent my trailing arm mount. I tried hitting the bub and the four bolts but nothing worked. Finaly, I just took a metal chisel and baby sledge and went to work. Chewed up the rotor dust cover a little but at that point I didn't care.

Good luck. Hope it works out for you,

Doug