So I went out on a date last night, left the kids at the babysitter and went to see Alien V Predator (not a bad movie for the entertainmet, it was just about what I thought it would be)

Ok so I get out of the movie theater and cranked and cranked and cranked on my engine trying to get it to start (I hoped the full fuel tank would help) Grrr embarrasing having everyone watch me as that diesel cranked and cranked each of them silently telling themselves what is wrong with my truck. Finally got my engine fired up and went to turn on the headlights and drive off, all the dash lights came on as normal and I departed the the movie theater and proceeded to drive down the main street in town. 10 minutes later after having to dig out my proof of insurance, registration and explaining to the officer that I had turned on my headlights and that I wasn't drinking I was about ready to drive that truck right off a damm cliff. I am about ready to trade it in tomorrow!!!

Ok so I cleaned off the battery cables and made sure the wires all had power, I can hear the solinoaids click when I jump a wire from the positive lead on the battery to the solinoid, but not when I turn the lights off and on or have someone do it for me. I replaced the headlights with new superbright lights but i cannot get the headlights to come on.

Could it be my on off switch? or my dimmer? how can I test these?

I had to drive home on my foglights alone about 45 miles, I guess lucky for me by the time I got done dinking around trying to get my lights to work it was late enough all the cops musta went to bed

 

Headlight switch is pooched, probably. It is a pretty common thing. Check withthe dealer because there is a recall on the '94. I don't know about the '95.

It is pretty easy to check the switch. Otherwise, perhaps the trouble is the multi-function switch,

 

Was it accompanied by the smell of hot plastic?

I'll second the Headlight Switch as a prime candidate diagnosis.
It's a pretty common failure point.

 

Could very well be the multi function switch too. You might try flicking it from high to low beam a few times and see if your lights flicker or come back on. The switch is vendored to DC from Lucas "the prince of darkness".

 

I don't mean to hijack the thread here, but some more info might help everyone. I flicked on my high beams one night and the headlights went off, only markers left. Flicked them off and on again, and all was well. Could this be the multifunction switch? I didn't smell any hot electrical.

 

I will say yes, or the odd chance that both highbeam lights are burned out. Anyone else?

 

You hit the nail on the head DaNuGuy.

 

Mine did this once a couple years ago, scared the tar out of me, never did it again so I never replaced anything. Think the multi-function switch might need to "exercised" every once in a while.

 

It hasn't done it since so I guess I'll take my chances.

Thanks all.

 

Mine's done that numerous times. So far a couple more accuations and everything is fine...till the next time..or the time after that, or....

It seems to be sensitive to not being fully pulled, but it's hard to experiement with. I dont' drive the truck very often.

How hard is it to replace the MF switch?

 

PITA.

Mine will do that every once in awhile, but more often if I haven't used the truck for several days. Usually lose the low beams when returning from high beams. My Sport never did it at all. Quad lamps make a difference??

 

Well I have had this problem a few times. A friend of mine said that on the jeep cherokee they replaced the high/low beem switch on the column. I have yet to trouble shoot that problem. That same night a friend of mine saw me returning from a birthday party. It took me several minutes to get my head lights to come on. He told me yesterday that I had no tail lights. I checked and I had no marker lights in front or on top either. I ran checks and the bulbs were fine but no electricity. I pulled the switch and sure enough the connector had gotten hot and distorted a little. The wire was the black/yellow for the marker/tail lights. It had corrosion. I think that many people are probably blaming the problem on the switch itself. The corrosion acts as a resistor. A resistor reduces the current that passes. It has to get rid of this current and it does it through heat. Well corrosion acts as a resistor and thus it gets hot. The wire for a couple of inches was very stiff as well as the connector itself being distorted.

I put it back together and it worked for a couple of seconds. I took the switch back off and put a meter with aligator clips accross the terminal for the marker light and the power terminal and turned the switch to the marker light position. By moving slightly the clips I was able to break the connection. I inspected the terminals closely and found the terminal for the marker light was loose. It is held in by a fold over rivet. The rivet itself contacting the circuit inside the switch. I tried to stake it at 45 degree intervals but no good. I ended up soldering it. Nice firm and clean terminal and put the meter back on and could not get it to break contact. Working fine since.

I would bet that some of the burnt switches are from corrosion and that if you inspect them that the switch is probably ok. If you don't clean/fix the connector it will continue to get hot and damage beyond use the connector. Of course I did not see any problem in the switch with the headlight portion. Next time they do not come on I will try cycling the high beam control.

 

Ok I found it

I was the big plug that connects to the on/off pull switch on my dash. The plug was a little bit melted on the big red wire with a white stripe, the main power feed I assume. I scraped off the male end a bit and tweaked the female plug end a tad so it has a better connection and is working fine now.

on a side note, I don't think these plugs are heavy duty enough to run those high output lights you can buy now, such as the super blues and the other higher output super whites. I have never been very happy with my headlights as they seem kinda weak to me compaired to newer rigs.

Perhaps I'll just install some better driving lights and not burn out my headlight system with those high output bulbs.

 

Or use your headlight switch to energize a relay that will carry the load.

 

i had the same problem with my 95, but my connector and switch completley melted. i think i paid $65 at napa for a new connector and switch. i've heard this problem alot on this forum you think they would have a recall on those before someones dash catches fire.