I am looking at buying a 94 2500. Since 94 was the first model year has anyone noticed more bugs or more breakdowns than any other model years, or am I just being paranoid?

 

mine has been flawless, and it has 187k on it!

 

94&'95 had less power than later models but it's about the same amount of work to jack them up to the same extent.
One advantage of the '94 is that early ones don't have a cat to take off.

 

The 94 does have a cat, but mine fell off. There were a few teething glitches, but after that the truck has been great.

 

My 95 has a cat but somebody put a pipe through it! Darned kids!!

 

94 model year CTD's manufactured before Jan. 1/94 are non-catalyst trucks.......score one of those and you are set.........

There is nothing much different from 94-97..........power levels changed slightly but you need not be concerned about the 160 hp pump.........delivery valves and injectors are what really hold the 160 back.........swap them out and you are pretty much on a level playing field with the higher hp pumps, IMO......

 

The 94 and 95 have somewhat *weaker* auto trannies, the overdrive carrier (or something like that) is aluminum instead of cast iron like 96 and later versions, and there are 1 or 2 fewer clutches than in later models. If you would like more info on the tranny, shoot me a PM, Dave Goerend sent me quite a list. It isn't a big problem by any means, if you're going to bomb the truck another tranny is required anyway. If you stay stock, it'll hold the power just fine, also. If you do end up having a stock rebuild, have them use 96 and newer guts. Other than that and what was already covered, I see no real difference. I've had great luck with mine so far!!!

 

The best thing about that year truck and those up through 98.5 is that they don't have a computer controlled engine. So after you start it, you can through the batterys away and the alternator.

No Camshaft Position Sensor, No Crankshaft Position Sensor, No Map Sensor, No Apps Sensor,
No electronic fuel injection pump (biggie), no electric fuel pump in the wrong place that don't work more than 50,000 miles in most cases and when it goes bad, overheats the injection pump and burns the module out.

You fuel pump is mechanical as is the injection pump. The injection pump in those engines is almost bullet proof. My sons truck is my old 96 2500 cummins and auto. It now has 249,000
on it. I can list the items on two hands that have been changed on that truck since it was new aside from tires and brakes.

Check the ball joints, and all front end steering parts. No greese fittings. Install the greese fittings if they are not there and the parts are good. You might want to replace the contactors and plunger in the starter if its not already been done. If it goes click and the batterys are good, thats what it will be most likely. Check the U-joints and drive shaft support for slop.
I had trouble with the Throttle Position Sensor and shifting correctly for a while.

Have someone hold your excellerator pedal to the floor and you pull the linkage under the hood and see how much travel is left. Most 12V's I've seen had about 1" or more travel remaining which translates into more fuel delivered and more power. I call it having a full rack.

When I start having major problems with my 24v, I intend dropping a 12v back in with some mods to bring the HP up to 300. The 12V marine application is 375hp I belive. It could be more now.

The truck body will most likey fall of the frame before that 12v ever stops running. Besides, that Cummins don't know its hooked up to anything.

Dave