I had mess with my sender also. IMO lifting the bed is way easier. But I don't like to roll around in the dirt. I don't have a shop.

FWIW, when I got my sender out I was able to check the resistance and it was okay. Tightened things up a bit, cleaned everything off and it has worked for quite a while now. Just a thought before you drop $50.

 

Here is the kicker... I have a lift. It's tied up right now with a car that has the front and rear suspension removed.
That takes some faith to just clean it up and then stick it back in there. But I may do just that. I'll pick up a new one in case. Hmmmm lift the box or drop the tank...........................................

 

One thing that supprised me when I changed mine was how long that module was that the sender is attached to. It is spring loaded and just got longer as I pulled it out.

 

so...what does that mean??? I am gonna need to lift the box higher than I planned?
??

 

The module is as long as the tank is tall from top to bottom. You will need to lift your bed at least 2ft or so. the module always ride/picks up fuel from the bottom of the tank. It is spring loaded to compensate for tank expansion/distortion

 

That's what I thought ! I am glad you mentioned this. NOW I am thinking about removing the tank. This may be the easiest way to go providing the tank is not plumb full.

 

The tank really is pretty easy to remove. Keep in mind the length of the tank and with a few gallons in it will let it slosh and try to tip one-way to the other. Take the filler neck hoses and straps off. Lower the tank a few inches, then disconnect the fuel lines and wiring connector and drop tank.

 

Leave the two bolts at the end of the bed (tail gate) in and just loosen them. Leave them out a ways. Jack or lift your bed up from the cab side, use some 2x4's to block the bed up. Just keep working your way up. If you have a couple of buddies have one of them block it off while you lift it. Or if you can tie it to a rafter in your shop or garage. Just make sure to keep blocks underneath. I ran a 2x4 from the bed, through the frame to the ground and held the bed up with it. Worked pretty well. I could test everything, make sure it was working, check all the connections and such under the bed and even found a small hole in my exhaust that the welder missed.

You have to keep in mind though that I have had my fair share of rolling around under equipment. At this point I do anything I can to stay out from underneath it!!!

So I am VERY biased!!!

Either way. Good luck with it. It is not a very fun job. But how often do you get to see the inside of your fuel tank????

 

OK play this one out... I have a Massey Fergusen tractor with a Great Bend Loader.... I can easily lift the bed and walk away with it. I guess If I take the time to tie it all good so it lifts straight up using ratchet straps etc etc
I should be able to just back out from the truck and set the bed down on the ground well out of the way.
will having the tractor and loader possibly work ? I just don't want to get the sides of the bed all banged up. I am pretty sure I can be far enough away from the truck bed and still lift it in the middle

 

mean while, while I don't have a lift and do everything in the dirt as well, not only do I not have the ability to lift the bed off anyway, but I would never consider it easier than dropping the tank. I admit I have not looked to see how many bolts actually hold it on or where they are.
Tank has fill hose, draw and return line, vent hose, sending plug and 2 straps, 4 nuts/bolts.
providing it's empty I can have it out in 20 min. Sit on the ground under the truck with my body between the frame rail and quarter under the filler pipe to reach the connections.

Crawl under the truck to see which you think will work easier for you.
About 20 min and under $2.00 in hardware from the hardware store and my sending unit was rebuilt with new improved pivot and ready to be reinstalled.
It's been in 5 plus years since that without a hiccup.

 

OK....what hardware for $2.00 are you talking about?
details please!

 

http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel_sender/sender.htm - I don't remember if it's a 6-32 or an 8-32, but once you have the pin out it's easy to match it up to the size you need in length and diameter. Remember, you want the screw to be slightly bigger than the pin was so it threads into the base- you will have to enlarge the hole in the pivot arm tho.
You need a screw, 2 (or 3) flat washers, nylock nut, spring.
If you wanted to improve on this, 2 nylon or teflon washers could be used as bearing surfaces against the arm for less friction and more importantly wear resistance.

Essentially what you're doing is replacing the pivot pin with the screw and adding a washer between the arm and the base (possibly another between the arm and spring) and then a spring to hold tension (followed by washer and nut).
As the pivot wears the arm moves away from the base allowing the contacts on the arm to miss the base contacts- the spring should keep mild tension to negate the wear and keep the arm in contact with the base.
You can modify the assembly as you wish adding an extra washer under the screw head also if you wish, depending on how large the screw head is.
If you local hardware store doesn't have this small stuff, a hobby store will (for R/C vehicles).

 

I have a new holland with a great bend loader. That's kinda funny. The first time I took my bed off, That is EXACTLY what I did. four ratchet straps and my wife to tell me if I was getting close to anything. Lifted the bed off till it was clear and drove the truck out from underneath it. I didn't even break out my back window putting it back on!!! As far as the sides of the bed, I put the straps inside of the bed (took the tail gate off, put the hooks in the stake pockets), layed some old blankets down over the sides just in case. I did not drive the tractor, I just lifted it up and dropped it down.

Worked slicker than snot... on a greased sheet, in the summer, when you have a cold...

The bed is really not all that heavy. If you needed some distance away from the front of your tractor, you could make a stinger out of a couple of 8' - 2x6's chained to the bottom of your bucket. I did that to lift 42' trusses on to a barn I built.

 

that will work!....sounds like a plan!...
all I need now is warmer weather

 

Warmer shrarmer.

How do you expect to create any new words if you don't crack you knuckles when their cold????