KRB

Isn't there a plug that you remove to burp the system? Like at the t-stat housing or something?

DodgenIt

I've read that before but I can't see anything like that. I'm5 kon closer today.

Also, temp is the same all across the rad.

Totallyrad

Make sure you check the hose temps at the radiator. You should see a difference top compared to bottom. You would need to check this while it's temp is up, like when it's running warmer than normal.

olddodgetrucks

Remove the thermostat and try pulling something.if it stays cool then you know what it is.

DodgenIt

I checked temps at hoses. The bottom is for sure cooler then the top.

Ha duh I didn't even think about just takin it out and running it with out to see what temps do. I'll grab some more coolant and give that a try.

Edit.. there is only the temp sensor near the t stat. Nothing I can see that would let me bleed air.

DodgenIt

Ok I got the new rad cap and Cummins t stat put in.
Temps while driving are much better. Staying about 185 all the time.
But as soon as I get into box stop and go it climbs up to 200 with the fan on. A month bin before I started getting high temps it would always stay 190ish. Haven't tried towing yet but that will be up next.

Silver R/T

I'd pull water pump off and inspect it.
How is your fan shroud?
What about your fan clutch, does it work/activate properly?

MoparDude

You have air in system. I had the same problem. Pull the heater core hose coming off the cylinder head and fill radiator till it comes out. Run the truck at idle and fill radiator to top.

whiskers

I hads the same problem and I pulled the radiator to find a few pounds of dust you can't see otherwise. between radiator and intercooler. Cleaned with high pressure car wash and running normal temps agai. Could have saved a big chunk on the fan clutch!

DodgenIt

If I keep over heating while towing the water pump will be the first to come out to inspect.
Fan shroud is good. Little dirty but exactly how it should be. And fan comes on and off when it's supposed too.

This morning when I put the new t stat in, I did it exactly like you said mopar dude so I should be clear of any air.

Whiskers, I cleaned mine the same way 2 years ago when I pulled it. That'll be next if I keep over heating and water pump is good.

Just hoping I can keep from draining and replacing fluid if I can right now cause that's 50 bucks I could really use for fuel right now. Money is tight since the new trans.
Thanks for all the replies everyone it's helped a bunch. I'll keep ya posted on how temps come in.

KRB

Well I've searched but can find no reference either. I do remember reading somewhere that there was a plug that could be removed at a high point though. Sorry.

wmcclay

With engine cold pull temp sender and intsall pressure gauge. Run engine at 1500, you should get a min of 10 psi. If not bad water pump, loose on shaft,fins worn or rusted off

KRB

Just realized you have a 24 valve, not sure how I happened upon this thread outside of the 1st Gen Forum...

First Gen 12 valves have a plug on top of the T-stat housing. At least mine does. Sorry to confuse the process.

SIXSLUG

The stock thermostat for your truck is a 190F.

The temps you are reporting as high ie 210 really aren't that hot, overheating/boilover is around 290F. If you are using your truck to tow 210 isn't that high.

DodgenIt

Ha ha no worries KRB no problem at all.

I'm not worried about 210 while towing, but I was driving empty at 210, and fighting to keep it off the 240 red line while towing. That's the part I didn't like.
I know 190 is the stock t stat, but while searching other threads it seems from others that a 180 t stat is the better way to go. So far it's keeping me just a hair under 190 on my temp gauge so it seems to be doing the job for driving empty. Tomorrow will be the towing test.