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VP44 replacement

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Old Nov 5, 2004 | 11:26 AM
  #1  
big b's Avatar
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From: Hilliard, Florida
VP44 replacement

Has anyone replaced the vp44? Is it difficult, do I need any special tools? What is the priming procedure?
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Old Nov 5, 2004 | 04:47 PM
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spudman's Avatar
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From: central NY
not very difficult IF you know what your doing.haven't done one myself but work on engines with rotary pumps ( i assume no special tools but i don't know off hand0 often if you do it make sure you know how to time it at the proper advancement not very hard to understand but can confuse some very smart people. as for priming all rotary pumps are self bleeding the only thing to do is to bleed all injection lines
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Old Nov 6, 2004 | 10:17 PM
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From: Las Vegas
Funny thing is I just did one today, yay me! lol You have to have alot of attention to detail here. There are are few things that can bite you in the butt. You will need a small t bar puller, an engine barring tool(available from cummins), and a large torx bit, a 27mm socket, oh and an inspection mirror. Buy the factory manual and read it before you start the job. FOLLOW THE BOOK. I would have new air horn gaskets handy too.

You have to remove the APPS, air horn, injector lines, and breather. A good metric
socket set and an assortment of wrenches
is a must.

Disconnect the negative battery cables. Remove the air horn and set aside. Remove the apps but don't take the cables off of it. Just remove the unit and put it out of the way. Move the grid heater out of the way, again leave the cables on it. Remove the breather and set aside. Use the barring tool to move the keyway on the pump to 12 o'clock, the index mark will be at 6 o'clock. Use the t bar puller to pull the pump gear only until it's lose on the shaft, DON'T OVER PULL. Clean the area and remove the injector lines. Keep careful track of all the small parts like the retainers and such. Remove the rear pump bracket bolts. Remove the pump nuts. Remove the pump. Clean the area with a clean rag, no oil or dirt in the pump bore. Install the keyway in your new pump. Keyways are matched to the pump and the numbers will have to match. The arrow on the keyway points to the rear of the pump. Clean the nose of the pump and lightly oil the o ring only. Line the keyway up with your pump gear and insert the shaft thru the pump bore and into the pump gear. Install the pump nuts finger tight. Install the shaft nut finger tight. Instal the rear pump bolts finger tight. Torque the pump according to the book procedure. Reinstall the injector lines, APPS, and air horn. Crack
3 injector lines to bleed the system. Hook up the battery negative cables and do a primary bleed at the valve on the side of the pump. Crank the engine
15 seconds at a time until she fires. Drink celebration beer!
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 06:59 AM
  #4  
big b's Avatar
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From: Hilliard, Florida
Thank for the help rockwithjason. I guess i'll be busy for awhile!!
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Old Nov 15, 2004 | 11:18 PM
  #5  
Kennys's Avatar
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From: Uriah, Alabama
Replaced my first pump this weekend. Everything went well and truck runs great now. Just follow the directions and don't let anything fall into the engine. Good luck.
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 12:39 PM
  #6  
Diesel-Dan's Avatar
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From: Plano, TX
Dont need a barring tool...just use the Alt nut. Rotates the motor just fine. Go counter Clockwise. Would suggest Blue Chips Diesel VP44 pump press they make....piece of billet that is milled....makes life LOTS easer. ALSO....the air horn bolts can double as the bolts that thread into the pump gear. Get you keyway at 12 o'clock before you try to press the pump off the gear. Other then that....its very simple! I have done about 11 with no probs. Did my first one in Feb if that tells you something!
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