I also posted this on the 2nd gen, but hoping to get more Houston area traffic here.

I have been having what I think is an electrical problem for the last 15K miles and I have been unable to find the problem. Truck currently has 129K and I have posted the problem before with little response.

Symptoms: Tach and sometimes other gauges (oil pressure, temp, water-in-fuel) go crazy at times. Tach will not read, sometimes act like a windshield wiper, etc. Truck will hiccup occasionally, but will typically do so at about the time tach / gauges begin acting up; but not always as of lately. Truck runs great at other times and I unable reproduce symptoms or hiccup at anytime.

Persistent Codes: 1693, 1694, 1698, and the dreaded 0216 as of recent
Occasional Codes: 0500 (replaced speed sensor and it came back after about 2 months) and 0501 (have no clue!!!)

I feel this is an electrical problem since the hiccup typically only happens when the tach begins acting up, and only does the hiccup on occasion though it seems to be getting more common as does the electrical. My feeling is that there is a problem somewhere between the engine and truck computers (1698). Specifically, the ECM inputs/outputs are directly related to my symptoms (specific gauge problems and injection pump); I have played with the ECM plugged but not removed it. I have checked accessible grounds and have plugged / unplugged accessible wires and sprayed electrical cleaners in the plugs with no improvements. It may act up three times a week or once a week. FP is good but was south and I replaced the FP at about 115000.

I am looking for a shop in the Houston area (preferably NW) that will DIAGNOSE a problem verse changing parts based on codes; I can do that. Although, I have just discovered that my VP44 is still under warranty but may be a fight. I have found the following based on searches:

HotRod Diesel- Near Galveston
Dealer at 610/10
Dealer in Brenham
Dealer in Madisonville (where I bought the truck, they should know the Cummins)
Any 5-star dealer???

Any other thoughts or opinions?

 

I am far from a knowledgeable electrical trouble shooter, but start with all of your chassis grounds. Make sure they are all clean (no paint and touching bare metal) and tight. There are several if memory serves me well.

I have not experienced this type of problem with a CTD, but had a Olds W-30 that gave my brother and I absolute fits for about 2 months. The chassis ground was tight, but had corrision built up and was not making good contact. Same thing as you describe, tach jumping, lights flicker, car would cut out and bang and pop then run clean for the next several outings.

This will give you a strating point. Michael at Hot Rod is a stand up guy and will help you all he can. Give him a call and he may have a few other areas to check. Good Luck,

Jim

 

Mine did the exact thing when I first got it. Ended up being the Cam sensor. Even got the death code once. See if yours has the Cam sensor under the VP44 or the Crank sensor behing the started on the block. I would replace that first, as you seem to have the same symptoms that I had.

 

I have had some work done at Houston Performance Diesel. So far I am extremely impressed with Ron and his crew there. They do a great job and don't try to rape you on the way out. His shop is off of Winkler on the SE side of town. Near Hobby Airport / 45 S.

Gary

 

It sure sounds like you have an electrical problem or several. One thing that is easy to check is the battery voltage when this foolishness starts. If the voltage gets too low, 9 or 10 volts, the ECM and PCM will not work correctly and lose their minds. Since your dash gauges go crazy don’t count on that voltmeter. I’ll bet Radio Shack has something that will plug into the cigar lighter. This may be a long shot but it will not cost much either.

I assume you have tried cleaning the battery posts when you tried spraying the various connectors.

 

My brother had a problem that was mentioned in regards to the 98's I think. But anyway, they had an issue with the oil pressure gauge going down to zero and come to find out, the dealer reprogrammed the ECM as there was some kind of update needed or there was a bug in there. That fixed it, it hasn't happened again. Anyway, I saw the sticker that they posted on top of the radiator where it said just that. My sister in law said it didn't cost anything and that there may have been a recall suggesting that problem has been seen by numerous dealers. I've seen the whole thing mentioned on this forum too.

 

I can tell you who not to go to in Houston.
Houston Performance Diesel. Dropped 4k in repairs there last December. I still got stranded TWICE in the week following. Both issues due to them not doing quality work.

I had a good experience with them in 2001. Not sure what happened. But my wallet is sure lighter. The phrase "parts changer" comes to mind.

I have had good service from Wiesner Dodge in Tomball. Butch Fayle (sp) is the service guy who helped me.

M&D is another reputable shop.

Henson in Madisonville is real quick to turn one into DC for any warranty violations. I am not saying this is right or wrong, but just something they like to do.

 

MattHopp,

I have used Diesel Innovations, and they are located in Northwest Houston. These guys are racers and very knowlegeable about diesels. Their link is below.

www.dieselinnovations.com/di.php

I have also had very good luck with Helfman Dodge on the Katy Freeway near Silber.

Tom

 

I think the CAM sensor is definitely involved but since the hiccupping is increasing, I am thinking it may also be the VP44. I don’t think I can change the CAM sensor without removing the VP44, so I am thinking I may take it to the dealer and let them warranty the VP44 based on the 0216 and I will have them change the CAM sensor as well. I have not seen any variations of the voltage based on the meter when the tach goes crazy. The other gauge problems have only happened once or twice since the problem first began.

I sent an email to Michael at HotRod Diesel asking him if he thinks he can diagnose it or if I should just take it in to a dealer. Diesel Innovations is only about 5 mins from my office, but I was thinking they were more performance / racing; I may give them a shout though. Thanks for the idea on Tomball Dodge, they are probably the closest to my house and I didn’t even think of them! The I-10/Silber dealer has also been mentioned many times. I just would prefer taking it to a dealer that is familiar with the Cummins verses a general dodge dealer that only sees a couple of Cummins.

Thanks for all of the suggestions and feel free to keep them coming!

Matt

 

I have used Helfman also, and been satisfied with the service. Lonney is one service writer that knows Diesels. Have my routine service done there, think it every 5 LOF is free, get a punch tag for the key ring. Also do a flow test on the lift pump when the do a fuel filter change.
Mexstan posted about the Dodge dealer in LaGrange, about 90 miles west of NW Houston. Make some phone call. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

So Helfman calls me after 3 days of looking at it..they say this is one weird problem and their main electric guy has been on with the “Star Line” people and have basically come to the conclusion that it is the ECM, but they can not guarantee it or return it. Roughly $1,400 for the install and reprogram….Let me here your thoughts. This was actually my first thought as well.

 

why fight it, if there is a possibility that your under warranty, find out and take it to a dealer... 8 years or 136,000 miles is the warranty

 

In your first post where there was a list of codes, there were two that will cause the problem you have.

P1694 - No CCD message received from ECM
P1698 - No CCD message received from PCM

These two codes will show up if there is an electrical problem with the data transfer bus. CCD stands for Chrysler Collision Detection and is used to pass info to almost all of the electrical components in the truck including the instrument cluster. This data bus is tested using a DRBIII scan tool, that the dealer should have. In my “Powertrain Diagnostics Procedures” manual, troubleshooting both of the codes start by connecting the DRB scan tool to the port under the dash and testing the data bus. The outcome of that test will tell if there is a short or open and where. It is hard to believe the dealer is not sure if it is the ECM.

If I were in your shoes I would take it to Cummins before dropping $1400 on a maybe it will work.

 

Here is one more thought on finding the problem with your instrument panel going crazy. If I had this truck in my driveway, I would start the engine and let it idle. If all the gauges are working correctly try wiggling the connectors to the ECM, PCM, and under the dash. IF someone is watching the dash panel for the problem, it may show up with stress on the connectors or harness. If the gauges are not working correctly, the same procedure may get it to behave. The test may allow you to find the location of the problem if it exists in the wiring. If the test does nothing then it could well be the ECM or PCM.
The dealer tech probably chose the ECM because it is responsible for the Tachometer, Oil pressure, Water-in-fuel, the Speed sensor and Coolant temperature. If you decide to replace the ECM try to work a deal where if the new ECM does not solve the problem the old one will be placed back in service.

 

i have read before that a bad airbag clock spring will cause this.