Im reading the haynes manual and it says that valve lash adjustment is not necessary on 1999 and later CDTs?

I guess I wont be doing a valve lash adjustment on my 2001 this weekend. Can anyone confirm that this is not necessary?

 

They are necessary and should be done. Intake should be .10 and exhaust .20. Set them to these and you pickup will run better.

 

Dodge/Cummins range for 24v is remarkable, to me. Very wide allowable limits!
.010" and .020", as suggested, make for smoother running engine. Should be done @ 150,000 miles... according to Dodge Service Manual.

RJ

 

I adjusted mine, they had not been done prior to me buying the truck(300,000KMS) and they were excessively loose, 017-.025 on average, you could hear them ticking over the diesel noise.
Now dont forget to do your tranny bands as well.

 

Everyday- I think you've found the reason why you should not use the Haynes manual. You can get the factory manual at www.techauthority.com
The valves need to be checked and usually they are lose.

HTH

AlpineRAM

 

good to know. i have 170k on my truck so ill adjust them soon.

 

I did mine at 120k some odd and the truck was noticeably more responsive and noticeably smoother and quieter. I set them .010/.020.

 

should i replace the gasket?

 

I re-used mine

 

The 01+ is reusable. I reused mine probably 20 times before I was an idiot and changed injectors with it on and bent it up by #6 injector.

 

My factory maintenance guide recommends that it be done at 120K. I have 84K on it now and have one or two clearly loud valves clacking away. Been lots of posts on performance improvements here by just adjusting the valves.

 

I did mine at 100,000 and I noticed a difference when towing. I suggest you go ahead and do it. It is not a bad job. Make sure you get the barring tool though. I wrenched it over with the alternator pulley and it was nearly impossible getting it through the compression stroke backwards...

I did the settings .010/.020 also and it seemed quieter.

Good luck!

 

where is the best price on the barring tool? $50 is the cheapest i can find it so far

 

Personally I just use the alternator pulley. Done it on 5 trucks and it makes life easy. And you don't have to buy another tool. When your in college you do things as cheap as possible.

 

im not real clear on what it says on step 8

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/val.../12_valve.html



what does it mean make sure the timing pin is disengaged?
how can you tell if it is engaged or disengaged?


am I suppose to rotate the engine until I can push the timing pin in (and that means its top dead center)? then make sure the pin is taken out when I start to rotate it again?