I have read that the valve train is quote "low maintenance" and that routine adjustments of valves is no longer needed unless for troubleshooting of performance problems or because some sort of repair was done to valvetrain components. I have a 98.5 with the 24Valve and it has 188000K's no problems yet. So question is should I throw in a valve adjustment as part of routine maintenance or just leave it be until the old gremlin appears and drops off a valve into a unsuspecting piston head. Thanks To All! Play Safe!

 

Not sure about newer eng. , but I think that every 80,000 or 100,000 is when it should be checked , after a few decades of repair buis , I do a lot of things different , new stuff , change oils 500 & 1,000 miles [ I do not want to bet the future , that all chips ect are not in there from new ] .
Valve adj. kinds the same , did it get done correctly at the beginning .
And really the same with used , to get on a regular maintenance , have to start one , its new to me so this is when the it starts , also if I go through every thing when I first get it , then there will be fewer surprises .
The beginning of valve adjustment issues are start out suttle , ruff idle , a little less power & millage .

 

24v adjustment is at 150,000

 

Thanks, seems to be I was on the same page was it done properly from day one even though it runs fine. Being 25 years in the mechanical industry I know that metal on metal eventually wears and tollerances get larger just the nature of the beast. As to the criteria of milage I think I just have look myself I mean its only the cost of a VC gasket and a bit of labor. I'll post again as to my findings. Play Safe! Thanks Much!

 

the gasket is re-usable.wont cost u and if u did i think its around $50.00

 

The tolerance is so wide that it has to be an abnormal issue to cause valve tolerance out of spec.

Practically if you adjust them "by ear", you will still be within the specs.

Dodge calls for :

INTAKE
0.152 mm ( 0.006 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MAX.

EXHAUST
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MAX.
0.762 mm (0.030 in.)
MAX

note:
If measured valve lash falls within these
specifications, no adjustment/reset is necessary.
Engine operation within these ranges has no
adverse affect on performance, emissions, fuel
economy or level of engine noise.

 

Hi guys,
My factory manual suggests a 60k mile valve adjustment interval. They may have changed that later but that is what mine says. I've done them 3 times now and they aren't that hard to do but be sure to get the barring tool, (the rotating tool), or you won't be able to turn the darn thing over. It is much easier if you have a helper to "spot" for you to be sure you're on #1 TDC. The gasket is reuseable, but be careful when you are getting the cover out from under the cowling because the gasket will drag on the rearmost hold down stud. Be sure not to get frustrated and drag it out or you will be spending a bunch of money for a replacement. The seal is rubber BTW so gasket is kind of misleading. The adjustment is easy but #'s 5 and 6 you need to stretch! Good Luck. Also double check on the numbers because .030in for the exhaust sounds loose. I'm not certain but check your manual.

 

There is a very good DIY how to about this in the Tech section at the top of this Forum it will walk you through step by step

 

.010" and .020" are the nominal specs for intake and exhaust respectively. But there is a tolerance on all specs, and the ones listed by Valv are it.

 

My tolerances ARE from Dodge service manual:

STANDARD PROCEDURE—VALVE LASH
ADJUSTMENT AND VERIFICATION
NOTE: To obtain accurate readings, valve lash measurements
AND adjustments should only be performed
when the engine coolant temperature is less
than 60° C (140° F).
The 24–valve overhead system is a “low-maintenance”
design. Routine adjustments are no longer
necessary, however, measurement should still take
place when trouble-shooting performance problems,
or upon completion of a repair that includes removal
and installation of the valve train components.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Fig. 47) (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the crankcase breather and vapor canister
(Fig. 48).
(4) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471–B,
rotate the engine and align the pump gear mark with
the top dead center (TDC) mark on the gear housing
cover (Fig. 49).
(5) With the engine in this position (pump gear
mark at 12 o’clock), valve lash can be measured at
the following rocker arms: INTAKE 1–2–4 /
EXHAUST 1–3–5. Measure the valve lash by inserting
a feeler gauge between the rocker arm socket and
crosshead (Fig. 50). Refer to VALVE LASH LIMIT
CHART for the correct specifications. If the measurement
falls within the limits, adjustment/resetting is
not necessary. If measurement finds the lash outside
of the limits, adjustment/resetting is required.
(6) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the
lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw
until the desired lash is obtained:
² INTAKE 0.254 mm (0.010 in.)
² EXHAUST 0.508 mm (0.020 in.)Tighten the lock
nut and re-check the valve lash.
(7) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
crankshaft one revolution (360°) to align the pump
gear mark to the 6 o’clock position in relation to the
TDC mark on the gear housing cover (Fig. 49).
(8) With the engine in this position (pump gear
mark at 6 o’clock), valve lash can be measured at the
remaining rocker arms: INTAKE 3–5–6 / EXHAUST
2–4–6. Use the same method as above for determining
whether adjustment is necessary, and adjust
those that are found to be outside of the limits.
(9) Install the cylinder head cover (Fig. 47) (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER
HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the fuel pump gear access cover.
(11) Connect the battery negative cables.

 

They say "if it's within limits, it's serviceable, that's what limits are for".

 

Thanks to all who replied, just some excellent feedback. At present I found a factory Dodge Ram Manual on good old ebay as soon as it arrives I will be taking the specs from that. As soon as I tackle the valve adjustment I will repost as to the results. Should be a snap.

 

I did mine today, once I got the hang of it it went pretty well. If I do it again im sure I could do it in half the time now that I know what im doing. Had one problem though, the pump drive cover would not come off, and it broke. Now it's sort of back on the timing cover, but it is leaking oil. Don't know what to do.

 

I did not realize that you had to remove any other parts other than the valve cover, I will have a good look before I start. Manual is still on its way must be tied up in customs or something. Thanks Much. RG

 

Just reading your signature, how do you like the Quadzilla XZT.