1999 dodge 2500 cummins.
How does one determine a vacume pump is going out? mine has an oil leak where steering pump shaft fits into adaptor. have replaced seal & o-rings but still leaks. any tips or cures would be helpful.

 

I haven't been into mine yet but I don't think that there is any oil in vacume pump to leak out, the way to know is whitch fluid are you replacing, so it would seem to me that the p.s. is leaking , if thats the case then 2 hoses and the tank seal -under res. body , take pump off take tank off then large o-ring on pump body that makes seal between p. body & res. tank. P.S. go to user control pannel and fill in the details on your sig.+ profile , more info we have the easyer it is to help.

 

Sounds like your vacuum pump seal is bad. It is engine oil leaking out. I just changed mine a while ago, not to hard just time consuming. When I replaced mine the first time it didn't seal up. So I took it all apart agian to make sure I didn't roll a seal or something. It got worse, it was so bad that I couldn't drive it. I got a reman. pump and put that in. That finally fixed the problem.

 

You have to tear it down and take the seals to a local industrial supply store. They will be able to match up the o-rings and the shaft seal for you. The gasket is a cummins part and can be had at your local dealer. I didn't replace the gasket and ended up with about $3.84 in parts and 4 hours of my time into the repair.

Do a search for vacuum pump seal and you will find all the information you'll need.

Or if you want to have all the parts up front there is someone selling a complete seal kit with gasket and all for $59.95 somewhere on the web. I think it was e-bay, but I'm not sure.

 

Mine started leaking between the Power steering pump and the Vacuum pump before they started making the seals for them. So I had to by a $600 Vac pump in order to stop the leak. I believe you can get the seal kit from Geno's Garage now for $20 bucks. So Now I have a perfectly good vacuum pump with a bad seal laying around. You can go to the (eeekkk!!) Dealer and ask if they can put some florescent stuff in your oil, drive it for a couple of days and come back for them to check exactly where the leak is coming from. They shine a light on it and if the leak glows is comfirms that it is engine oil and not PS fluid. They should do this at no charge, hopefully, just don't tell them that you will do the fix. Good luck.

 

if you have repaired the seal are you sure that you did not bugger up the seal putting it back together?the kit from cummins has ALL the parts to repair it. cummins part#4089742 seals gaskets and instructions $7.50 from cummins
took me 2hrs to R&R it

 

wow! thanks for all the info guy's. I did buy a cummins seal kit for $55, but must have buggered up the seal or o-ring, so will try it again. It's definitely motor oil & not ps fluid so can only be seal or o-ring. Thanks for the help. Any sites to find a remanufactured pump?- dealers in colo want $2100!!!!! for a new one. That hurts! Thanks again
P.S.- In your truck descriptions I see a lot of FASS or FAAS listed - what is it?
Thanks again & may the force be with you.

 

Here is a site where you can get a remanufacter pump http://www.fixinrams.com/index.html The FASS is a fuel pump system that stands for fuel air seperation system. It is far better then the stock system. The pumps push 95 gpm or higher. If you haven't gotten your fuel pressure checked yet you should get it done.

 

farmer dave,
thanks for info. on fixn rams @ verision.net. I called the number on the site @ 10:30 pm my time expecting to leave a message, & wound up waking up pete @ 11:30 pm his time. not only did he discuss my problem, he took my order & sent the parts i needed the next morning. i needed the seal sleeve in adaptor between vp & ps pump, which i buggered up, for about $54.verses $2100. for a new pump from dodge. he also remans. vacume pumps for around $300 & offers a double lip seal for adaptor which is far superior to cummins seal.
all in all service was exceptional & parts of high quality. i highly recommemd his services & products.

 

Engine oil is what is spinning inside the pump to create the vaccum we need for cruise and heater/vent controls. The seal from Cummins is a POS, the one from fixinrams is the best kit right now out there. He sends the DVD on the how too as well as a few tools to knock out the cylinder, although they are just PVC parts they are very helpful. Plus his double lipped seal, Cummins gasket, and larger than stock OD on the O-rings make it a very well put together kit.

 

when I replaced mine my shaft was was warn where the seal would ride, I figured it would seal...so when I tore it down the second time I put two seals in there and it cured me of the leak, I had to wrap teflon around the second seal to get it to press in tight. looking back, I wonder if instead of pulling the vp to change the seal, why not just jiffy sleve the ps pump?? I will try this on the next one I do.

 

Why are you pulling the VP? All you need to do is is remove the ps lines, the oil lines on the vac pump and the few of bolts that will get the pump free from the housing. If your shaft is wore, like mine was that is why the double lipped seal is so much better, the seal rides on the shaft in two new locations, stradling the wore spot from the factory single lip seal. 52000 miles on my rebuild and not one leak...................

 

Sorry but you would need at least 2" pipe to flow that kind of volume. It would be capable of draining the entire fuel tank in 20 seconds.

 

I think he meant to say GPH instead of GPM...

 

VP = Vacuum pump, not vp 44